All fair points. Note that they will be covered by the fitted inserts from TOYOTA, so not exposed to the sun. The trouble is that a bolt won’t thread into that hole on either side; the factory roof rack has a peg more or less that fits into that hole whereas all the other ones had bolts threaded into them.
Factory roof rack removal
- Thread starter dieselbigot
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Joined
- Jul 30, 2003
- Threads
- 72
- Messages
- 2,944
- Location
- Broomfield, Colorado
- Website
- www.gamiviti.com
Ok I know what you're talking about. there are actually threads in that hole where the peg was, you just have to run a tap down there to clean it up. And then it will perform just like all of the other threaded holes on the roof. But it's really difficult to get a bolt started in that hole without chasing the threads first with a tap.
Good afternoon, I am putting together everything I need to remove the factory racks and fill the holes and I want to make sure I am buying the right parts. What screws/bolts, specifically, would you recommend I use to fill the holes? The selection is overwhelming when you are not sure what is the right part for this specific application. Thanks!!
- Joined
- Jul 30, 2003
- Threads
- 72
- Messages
- 2,944
- Location
- Broomfield, Colorado
- Website
- www.gamiviti.com
I think all the answers are here, click back a page you'll see some good bolts, rubber washers, and a picture of the drip rail cover insert part number.
Thank you for responding so fast. Yeah, I would be embarrassed to tell you how many times I have read through these twelve pages in this thread, and a few other threads, trying to make sure I do everything right removing the factory racks. I am a master of overthinking stuff.
I just wondered, with your obvious expertise on the subject, if you would recommend a specific bolt. But if you think those a page back are good, I will find those. I have a 2005 100 series, so I think I will eventually need to replace the windshield side trim too to address the famous gap. That doesn’t sound like a necessarily pressing matter though….just a cosmetic one. Thanks again for your response. I appreciate your time!
- Joined
- Jul 30, 2003
- Threads
- 72
- Messages
- 2,944
- Location
- Broomfield, Colorado
- Website
- www.gamiviti.com
Any M8 bolt with a decent flange head is going to do the job, any length 12-20mm. it's just holding down a rubber washer right? I don't think you need to over think this.
$10, you'll have them on Saturday Amazon product ASIN B08KSSW83R
$10, you'll have them on Saturday Amazon product ASIN B08KSSW83R
Cool. Thank you. I guess my main concern was making sure that the bolt and rubber washer would fit under the Toyota trim piece 75557-60010 once it was popped in. Thought maybe I needed some type of low profile bolt.
This may help ha,
When I removed my factory rack I found these hard plate shaped washers which helped spread the force of the factory rack bolts. They came off easier with some heat as they had adhesive on them. With them removed and the surface cleaned up you should have ZERO issues with clearance.
When I removed my factory rack I found these hard plate shaped washers which helped spread the force of the factory rack bolts. They came off easier with some heat as they had adhesive on them. With them removed and the surface cleaned up you should have ZERO issues with clearance.
Thanks! Great information.
Anyone have information on how to add factory cross bars? I came across two extras that would come in handy, but I'm inclined to not break the factory weatherproofing if I need to remove the side rails / bolts.
- Joined
- Jul 30, 2003
- Threads
- 72
- Messages
- 2,944
- Location
- Broomfield, Colorado
- Website
- www.gamiviti.com
You're gonna have to take the factory rack off. To slide the cross bars in, one side of the factory rail feet needs to be removed, usually done by removing a tiny Torx screw in the bottom of it. That frees up the channel to slide in the additional cross bars. I wouldn't sweat the factory weatherproofing, when you put it back together just use a little silicone or polyurethane sealant on the bolt threads, crack them down, would be better than new.
Anyone out there know if when removing the bolts on the end caps, what are they threaded in to? I saw some mention of a bracket that could possibly fall in the headliner. I assume remove one bolt and use something to keep said bracket in place if dropping down and losing it in the headliner is a possibility.
On the re-install, I figure maybe a little Teflon tape around the threads of the bolt and some silicone globs up top to keep it all sealed up.
On the re-install, I figure maybe a little Teflon tape around the threads of the bolt and some silicone globs up top to keep it all sealed up.
- Joined
- Jul 30, 2003
- Threads
- 72
- Messages
- 2,944
- Location
- Broomfield, Colorado
- Website
- www.gamiviti.com
that's a 200 series concern mostly, also the Gx's and 4runners, but not the 100 series. You can't push any bracket into the headliner on the 100, the nuts are welded to the roof.
Thanks for the ongoing info in this thread. I'll add a few pics to the thread when I get this project going. Curious why people don't use teflon tape on the threads instead of silicone? Seems cleaner and would waterproof, maybe that in pair with a sealing washer.
Any thoughts on the feasibility of removing and installing the factory roof rack on an as needed basis? On a 2006 LX
I'd like to remove it and primarily keep it off the vehicle but retain the ability to easily re-install as needed. No more than 1-2 times a year
Mainly concerned with water seepage and how to go about sealing the bolt holes without making them difficult to remove again later
The other option I can maybe see, that might make more sense...
Remove the factor rack, remove the cross bars, then re-install the side rails only, and just use aftermarket crossbars when needed?
I'd like to remove it and primarily keep it off the vehicle but retain the ability to easily re-install as needed. No more than 1-2 times a year
Mainly concerned with water seepage and how to go about sealing the bolt holes without making them difficult to remove again later
The other option I can maybe see, that might make more sense...
Remove the factor rack, remove the cross bars, then re-install the side rails only, and just use aftermarket crossbars when needed?
Last edited:
- Joined
- Jul 30, 2003
- Threads
- 72
- Messages
- 2,944
- Location
- Broomfield, Colorado
- Website
- www.gamiviti.com
That's probably a better move, compared to removing the whole thing. There are brackets that would clamp directly to those rails, like yakima or thule or Rhino stuff... or you can do extrusion cross bars and use bolt-in brackets that would allow you to bolt up some cross bars as needed.
happy to help with the extrusion bar setup if you want to go that route, would recommend the 1x2 t-slot profile, as that will have the most accessories available, paired with either our wing brackets or angle brackets.
wing brackets — Gamiviti
Add an extrusion cross bar over the top of the factory rail of your 4Runner, Land Cruiser, Lexus GX or LX, or any other OEM rail with the internal slot.
www.gamiviti.com
Stock rail angle brackets — Gamiviti
www.gamiviti.com
Cross Bars — Gamiviti
Bolt-on cross bars provide even more mounting options for accessorizing your Gamiviti rack.
www.gamiviti.com
hth!
I’m right now in the process of removing, restoring, and reattaching my factory rack. I would not want to do this a couple of times a year, it’s a PITA, especially with the brittle plastic bits.
My factory rack was on the vehicle for 26 years with zero maintenance and no leaks. Seems like removing/replacing it repeatedly is asking for trouble.
I do like the idea of reinstalling just the rails without the crossbars, though. The factory crossbars are not well designed and their crown looks nice until you have to load something flat. Aftermarket bars make more sense. I might try that.
Thanks, this is helpful
Good to know. Kinda what I figured...
I hear you, my stock system is mint still with no issues. Hate that I even have to remove it to get the crossbars off
But I definitely need them off as they lead to my main overhead clearance issue. Not sure whether the rails alone are a clearance issue yet
And while I could just pull the whole thing (I do like look of rackless LCs) I'd hate to not have it when I need it, as infrequently as that might be
Last edited:
Could install studs if you can find the right diameter and length.. Weatherproof them and toqrue them down. When you want the rack you slide them over the studs and thread on a nut... That's the only way I can see semi-frequent removal / install being worth whileThanks, this is helpful
Good to know. Kinda what I figured...
I hear you, my stock system is mint still with no issues. Hate that I even have to remove it to get the crossbars off
But I definitely need them off as they lead to my main overhead clearance issue. Not sure whether the rails alone are a clearance issue yet
And while I could just pull the whole thing (I do like look of rackless LCs) I'd hate to not have it when I need it, as infrequently as that might be
That won’t work on a 6-post factory rack. It has to be slid forward 1/2” to access the center post. Studs would prevent that. You need to remove all the hardware. Might work on a 4-poster, but…
You’d need custom posts. The factory rack uses special shoulder bolts to prevent you from over-torquing the plastic, which would crack it and compromise it mechanically. Basically, the bolt’s shoulder bottoms out against the roof channel before the rack’s plastic can compress.
