Factory roof rack removal (2 Viewers)

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I would worry that the plastic will crack and get brittle in the sun, it will also shrink in the cold. It might work well today but I don't think that's a good long term fix if your goal is to just plug those holes. The rubber washers & bolts should be much more long term.
All fair points. Note that they will be covered by the fitted inserts from TOYOTA, so not exposed to the sun. The trouble is that a bolt won’t thread into that hole on either side; the factory roof rack has a peg more or less that fits into that hole whereas all the other ones had bolts threaded into them.
 
All fair points. Note that they will be covered by the fitted inserts from TOYOTA, so not exposed to the sun. The trouble is that a bolt won’t thread into that hole on either side; the factory roof rack has a peg more or less that fits into that hole whereas all the other ones had bolts threaded into them.
Ok I know what you're talking about. there are actually threads in that hole where the peg was, you just have to run a tap down there to clean it up. And then it will perform just like all of the other threaded holes on the roof. But it's really difficult to get a bolt started in that hole without chasing the threads first with a tap.
 
I would worry that the plastic will crack and get brittle in the sun, it will also shrink in the cold. It might work well today but I don't think that's a good long term fix if your goal is to just plug those holes. The rubber washers & bolts should be much more long term.
Good afternoon, I am putting together everything I need to remove the factory racks and fill the holes and I want to make sure I am buying the right parts. What screws/bolts, specifically, would you recommend I use to fill the holes? The selection is overwhelming when you are not sure what is the right part for this specific application. Thanks!!
 
I think all the answers are here, click back a page you'll see some good bolts, rubber washers, and a picture of the drip rail cover insert
I think all the answers are here, click back a page you'll see some good bolts, rubber washers, and a picture of the drip rail cover insert part number.
Thank you for responding so fast. Yeah, I would be embarrassed to tell you how many times I have read through these twelve pages in this thread, and a few other threads, trying to make sure I do everything right removing the factory racks. I am a master of overthinking stuff. 😀
I just wondered, with your obvious expertise on the subject, if you would recommend a specific bolt. But if you think those a page back are good, I will find those. I have a 2005 100 series, so I think I will eventually need to replace the windshield side trim too to address the famous gap. That doesn’t sound like a necessarily pressing matter though….just a cosmetic one. Thanks again for your response. I appreciate your time!
 
Any M8 bolt with a decent flange head is going to do the job, any length 12-20mm. it's just holding down a rubber washer right? I don't think you need to over think this.
$10, you'll have them on Saturday Amazon product ASIN B08KSSW83R
 
Any M8 bolt with a decent flange head is going to do the job, any length 12-20mm. it's just holding down a rubber washer right? I don't think you need to over think this.
$10, you'll have them on Saturday Amazon product ASIN B08KSSW83R
Cool. Thank you. I guess my main concern was making sure that the bolt and rubber washer would fit under the Toyota trim piece 75557-60010 once it was popped in. Thought maybe I needed some type of low profile bolt.
 
This may help ha,

When I removed my factory rack I found these hard plate shaped washers which helped spread the force of the factory rack bolts. They came off easier with some heat as they had adhesive on them. With them removed and the surface cleaned up you should have ZERO issues with clearance.

3B09A0AA-8236-48C3-8A9F-3D3EFC0C0EE9.jpg
 
This may help ha,

When I removed my factory rack I found these hard plate shaped washers which helped spread the force of the factory rack bolts. They came off easier with some heat as they had adhesive on them. With them removed and the surface cleaned up you should have ZERO issues with clearance.

View attachment 2929480
Thanks! Great information.
 
Anyone have information on how to add factory cross bars? I came across two extras that would come in handy, but I'm inclined to not break the factory weatherproofing if I need to remove the side rails / bolts.
 
Anyone have information on how to add factory cross bars? I came across two extras that would come in handy, but I'm inclined to not break the factory weatherproofing if I need to remove the side rails / bolts.
You're gonna have to take the factory rack off. To slide the cross bars in, one side of the factory rail feet needs to be removed, usually done by removing a tiny Torx screw in the bottom of it. That frees up the channel to slide in the additional cross bars. I wouldn't sweat the factory weatherproofing, when you put it back together just use a little silicone or polyurethane sealant on the bolt threads, crack them down, would be better than new.
 
Anyone out there know if when removing the bolts on the end caps, what are they threaded in to? I saw some mention of a bracket that could possibly fall in the headliner. I assume remove one bolt and use something to keep said bracket in place if dropping down and losing it in the headliner is a possibility.

On the re-install, I figure maybe a little Teflon tape around the threads of the bolt and some silicone globs up top to keep it all sealed up.
 
Anyone out there know if when removing the bolts on the end caps, what are they threaded in to? I saw some mention of a bracket that could possibly fall in the headliner. I assume remove one bolt and use something to keep said bracket in place if dropping down and losing it in the headliner is a possibility.

On the re-install, I figure maybe a little Teflon tape around the threads of the bolt and some silicone globs up top to keep it all sealed up.
that's a 200 series concern mostly, also the Gx's and 4runners, but not the 100 series. You can't push any bracket into the headliner on the 100, the nuts are welded to the roof.
 
that's a 200 series concern mostly, also the Gx's and 4runners, but not the 100 series. You can't push any bracket into the headliner on the 100, the nuts are welded to the roof.
Thanks for the ongoing info in this thread. I'll add a few pics to the thread when I get this project going. Curious why people don't use teflon tape on the threads instead of silicone? Seems cleaner and would waterproof, maybe that in pair with a sealing washer.
 

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