Factory Remote / Door Lock / Alarm Issue - Electrical Gremlin (1 Viewer)

[Good Times]

I have a 2000 LC with an odd issue that I can't resolve.

Symptom:

1 > Unlock (driver/passenger/rear hatch) door (via factory remote key fob or key hole) will trigger the horn to sound (even before the door is open). (no aftermarket alarm as far as I know of)
2 > Factory remote key fob only unlocks (one or all depending on number or clicks) and will not lock any doors
3 > If the doors are already locked and I try to lock the door via factory remote key fob the perimeter lights will engage (so I know it's receiving a signal) but I will not hear the door lock actuator to engage to lock the doors.
4 > Master/Valet key via key hole (driver/passenger/rear hatch) will unlock but will not lock door

Things that do work:

1 > the power door switch on the door panel (driver & passenger) works. I can lock and unlock all doors
2 > the key hole works to unlock and lock (though I can't lock all anymore unless that wasn't a feature - always used the remote so I dunno)

It just started to happening recently and is driving me nuts cuz every time I have to unlock the door the horn goes off as if it's an alarm. Disabling the horn only works by inputting the (master or slave) key into the ignition and turning it to the "on" position.

In the interim I've removed the horn fuse to kill the louder steering horn but I noticed there's a smaller 3-4" factory horn on the passenger fender wall that still screams at me. It's not as bad but still annoying.

Read thru these threads:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series...k-doors-but-door-switches-do-lock-unlock.html

https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/106226-alarm-malfunction-my-98-a.html

https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/787580-lx-470-door-locks-have-gone-insane.html

and a few others thinking others may have a solution but to no avail.

What I've tried:

Based on reading Doug's issue I thought it was the same body/junction ecu so I swapped it out from cruiserparts but it appears that didn't fix my problem.

Thought it might be the door lock actuator but all of the doors do lock and unlock without any hurdles so I'm stumped.

I've reprogrammed all of my key fobs thinking that might be the issue (3 master and 2 valets) but still no dice.

Ideas anyone?

 

[UltraFJ40]

I've gotta bump this one Lance, I'm having a door locking issue myself. I can hear my actuator moving but my manual lever stays in place causing it to unlock again.

Have you tried disconnecting the battery to see if you can get the alarm to reset?

Have you verified that all of your locking levers operate fully (locked/unlocked) when instructed to by either the fob or the power lock button?



This is what I posted in the 15 page "door actuator" thread.

"My 05 just became all "bugger-boo'd". When using either the fob or the power lock/unlock button, the manual locking lever on the drivers side door fails to move. It stays in whatever position it's in. As a result, when locking the doors with the fob, the lever stays in the open position thus forcing all doors to unlock again. FWIW, the alarm does become active even with the doors unlocked, just ask my wife.

Having not read all 286 posts prior, has anyone else had this issue or thoughts?"

 

[2000UZJ]

The internal button on the key fob is held on by 4 poorly done solder points. My button fell off internally, but before that happened the key worked sometimes.

 

[UltraFJ40]

I just came across this thread talking about the solenoid. Might be the problem for mine. Heck, if Lance have make a visual confirmation that all his locking levers are moving, we could probably rule out a solenoid issue for him.

Thanks 2000UZJ. Nice to have Mud back up, huh? As soon as it came back I went searching. Not rembering what Woody had posted on google+. Needless to say, I got nada. The google site search works though!

:woo-hoo:

 

[UltraFJ40]

#2 from your things that DO work above:

The ability to lock all doors with the keys from the outside IS a feature at least on my 98 and 05.

 

[UltraFJ40]

I took my door apart and noticed that the lever and cable doesn't fully move the tumbler very easily.

My scenario is:

With key in keyhole = yes (all door locks U&L)
Manually = yes (with the lever)
Key fob or power lock switch = NO, neither locking nor unlocking does the drivers door cooperate.

 

[UltraFJ40]

Update in the "Door Lock Actuator Replacement" thread. Bad motor (fyi: fc 280pc-22125) Mine has a flat shaft on one side to allow for the worm gear to be driven, there are others with the same part number but have a round shaft. Just something to keep an eye on.

 

[Justin Alderson]

I have a 2000 LC with an odd issue that I can't resolve.

Symptom:

1 > Unlock (driver/passenger/rear hatch) door (via factory remote key fob or key hole) will trigger the horn to sound (even before the door is open). (no aftermarket alarm as far as I know of)
2 > Factory remote key fob only unlocks (one or all depending on number or clicks) and will not lock any doors
3 > If the doors are already locked and I try to lock the door via factory remote key fob the perimeter lights will engage (so I know it's receiving a signal) but I will not hear the door lock actuator to engage to lock the doors.
4 > Master/Valet key via key hole (driver/passenger/rear hatch) will unlock but will not lock door

Things that do work:

1 > the power door switch on the door panel (driver & passenger) works. I can lock and unlock all doors
2 > the key hole works to unlock and lock (though I can't lock all anymore unless that wasn't a feature - always used the remote so I dunno)

It just started to happening recently and is driving me nuts cuz every time I have to unlock the door the horn goes off as if it's an alarm. Disabling the horn only works by inputting the (master or slave) key into the ignition and turning it to the "on" position.

In the interim I've removed the horn fuse to kill the louder steering horn but I noticed there's a smaller 3-4" factory horn on the passenger fender wall that still screams at me. It's not as bad but still annoying.

Read thru these threads:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series...k-doors-but-door-switches-do-lock-unlock.html

https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/106226-alarm-malfunction-my-98-a.html

https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/787580-lx-470-door-locks-have-gone-insane.html

and a few others thinking others may have a solution but to no avail.

What I've tried:

Based on reading Doug's issue I thought it was the same body/junction ecu so I swapped it out from cruiserparts but it appears that didn't fix my problem.

Thought it might be the door lock actuator but all of the doors do lock and unlock without any hurdles so I'm stumped.

I've reprogrammed all of my key fobs thinking that might be the issue (3 master and 2 valets) but still no dice.

Ideas anyone?

I'm having a similar (but not exactly the same) issue and wondered if you found a resolution?
Thanks!

 

[reznunt]

I have a 2000 LC with an odd issue that I can't resolve.

Symptom:

1 > Unlock (driver/passenger/rear hatch) door (via factory remote key fob or key hole) will trigger the horn to sound (even before the door is open). (no aftermarket alarm as far as I know of)
2 > Factory remote key fob only unlocks (one or all depending on number or clicks) and will not lock any doors
3 > If the doors are already locked and I try to lock the door via factory remote key fob the perimeter lights will engage (so I know it's receiving a signal) but I will not hear the door lock actuator to engage to lock the doors.
4 > Master/Valet key via key hole (driver/passenger/rear hatch) will unlock but will not lock door

Things that do work:

1 > the power door switch on the door panel (driver & passenger) works. I can lock and unlock all doors
2 > the key hole works to unlock and lock (though I can't lock all anymore unless that wasn't a feature - always used the remote so I dunno)

It just started to happening recently and is driving me nuts cuz every time I have to unlock the door the horn goes off as if it's an alarm. Disabling the horn only works by inputting the (master or slave) key into the ignition and turning it to the "on" position.

In the interim I've removed the horn fuse to kill the louder steering horn but I noticed there's a smaller 3-4" factory horn on the passenger fender wall that still screams at me. It's not as bad but still annoying.

Read thru these threads:

remote does not unlock or lock doors, but door switches do lock / unlock

Alarm Malfunction on my 98

LX 470 Door Locks Have Gone Insane

and a few others thinking others may have a solution but to no avail.

What I've tried:

Based on reading Doug's issue I thought it was the same body/junction ecu so I swapped it out from cruiserparts but it appears that didn't fix my problem.

Thought it might be the door lock actuator but all of the doors do lock and unlock without any hurdles so I'm stumped.

I've reprogrammed all of my key fobs thinking that might be the issue (3 master and 2 valets) but still no dice.

Ideas anyone?

I have the exact same symptoms as you describe. Wondering if you were able to solve your issue?

 

[bmw635]

Check this lock sensor on both front doors. Weird electrical door lock problem.

 

[reznunt]

Check this lock sensor on both front doors. Weird electrical door lock problem.

Thanks for your help, but I found my rear driver's side door lock is only opening halfway with the keyfob. I already ordered a new actuator motor.

 

[Good Times]

sorry didn't get back to you sooner. I haven't resolved it but I plan on replacing all of the actuators and see if that doesn't fix it. Figure it's all original and probably on its way out anyway.

 

[ATTemp]

sorry didn't get back to you sooner. I haven't resolved it but I plan on replacing all of the actuators and see if that doesn't fix it. Figure it's all original and probably on its way out anyway.

Did replacing the door actuators fix the problem? I am having the EXACT same issue. Dealer wants $650 to replace the driver door actuator, but do not sound convinced that will fix the alarm issue. Any information you have would be a great help!

 

[ATTemp]

Did replacing the door actuators fix the problem? I am having the EXACT same issue. Dealer wants $650 to replace the driver door actuator, but do not sound convinced that will fix the alarm issue. Any information you have would be a great help!

I was able to get the dealer to plug in a new actuator (without charging me for it!) and it did not fix the problem. My "solution" is to unplug the alarm computer so that I can enter the locked vehicle without it going off.

This gremlin is still a mystery.

 

[Knowbuddy]

I had a similar problem. Do the dome and courtesy lights work as well? If not then you might want to check the fuses on the passenger side . The advice that was given to me try all the easy fixes before doing the major purchases. Mine was showing the symptoms of a bad ecu. But turned out to be just one fuse.

 

[ATTemp]

I had a similar problem. Do the dome and courtesy lights work as well? If not then you might want to check the fuses on the passenger side . The advice that was given to me try all the easy fixes before doing the major purchases. Mine was showing the symptoms of a bad ecu. But turned out to be just one fuse.

All the lights (and other electronics) are working just fine. Will look into fuses.

 

[Knowbuddy]

All the lights (and other electronics) are working just fine. Will look into fuses.

I spent a bit checking the fuses on the drivers side and in the engine bay but it turned out to be just one little one on the passenger side. I was preparing to spend big bucks but I am glad I didn't jump the gun.

 

[Justin Alderson]

I'll have to re-check the fuses. I don't think I checked anything on the passenger side.

I replaced the actuators all the way around (including the rear-hatch) and that seemed to resolve some of my problems, but some issues still remain:

- no chirp when I lock or unlock the doors via the remote (it locks everything up, turns on security, and blinks the lights).
- I've never been able to program my keys (had to take it to a Toyota Specialist to re-program them, including new ones).
- Alarm goes off when I use the key on the passenger door... but this was due to me accidentally breaking off one side of the small, white, plastic clip that attaches to the back of the key lock (barrel) that includes some kind of sensor so it can tell the ICU when the door is unlocked. Without that clipped on securely, the ICU thinks the door is still locked, even after manually unlocking it... then alarm blares until I insert the key and turn to on or start it up. My fault and I just need to purchase another one somewhere and put it in. I doubt this would be a cause for the other issues (above) I'm having.

All ideas and suggestions are appreciated!

Also, I still have a 2nd ICU (Orange Toyota label w/"Instrument Controller & Junction" by Furukawa Electric. Part# 82791-60040... located above and behind the radio in the dash), which I purchased hoping it would solve my problems... it didn't and is now collecting dust. Let me know if you're interested. I'm willing to meet if you're local to the Seattle area so you can test it to make sure it'll solve the problem before you buy it.

@ATTemp, what dealer helped you with the actuator? Sounds like better service than I'm getting from my local dealer.

 

[AstRomroMan]

I'll have to re-check the fuses. I don't think I checked anything on the passenger side.

I replaced the actuators all the way around (including the rear-hatch) and that seemed to resolve some of my problems, but some issues still remain:

- no chirp when I lock or unlock the doors via the remote (it locks everything up, turns on security, and blinks the lights).
- I've never been able to program my keys (had to take it to a Toyota Specialist to re-program them, including new ones).
- Alarm goes off when I use the key on the passenger door... but this was due to me accidentally breaking off one side of the small, white, plastic clip that attaches to the back of the key lock (barrel) that includes some kind of sensor so it can tell the ICU when the door is unlocked. Without that clipped on securely, the ICU thinks the door is still locked, even after manually unlocking it... then alarm blares until I insert the key and turn to on or start it up. My fault and I just need to purchase another one somewhere and put it in. I doubt this would be a cause for the other issues (above) I'm having.

All ideas and suggestions are appreciated!

Also, I still have a 2nd ICU (Orange Toyota label w/"Instrument Controller & Junction" by Furukawa Electric. Part# 82791-60040... located above and behind the radio in the dash), which I purchased hoping it would solve my problems... it didn't and is now collecting dust. Let me know if you're interested. I'm willing to meet if you're local to the Seattle area so you can test it to make sure it'll solve the problem before you buy it.

@ATTemp, what dealer helped you with the actuator? Sounds like better service than I'm getting from my local dealer.

Can you describe for me in more detail the part that you mention above as "one side of the small, white, plastic clip that attaches to the back of the key lock (barrel) that includes some kind of sensor"--- I am thinking I have have damaged this when I replaced my front door actuators-- and maybe it is causing my front door to think it is "not locked" and is triggering my alarm at odd times?

Thanks!!!

 

[Justin Alderson]

Can you describe for me in more detail the part that you mention above as "one side of the small, white, plastic clip that attaches to the back of the key lock (barrel) that includes some kind of sensor..."

@AstRomroMan
I couldn’t find a pic from when I pulled it apart, but as I recall, the back of the key cylinder (opposite end where you insert the key in the door) has a slotted metal end cap where you could insert a regular screwdriver into. Also, on the lock cylinder housing on each side, roughly 1/4” from the back is a protruding rectangle. It’s part of the cast housing and that is what the sensor clips on to on each side.

Note: I found a pic online of how I remember the cylinder assembly looks and will try to upload below. Couldn’t find anything that shows the sensor.

The plastic sensor is maybe 3/4” to 1” in diameter with the 2 “legs” w/holes in them that attach to the cylinder housing. It also has a rotating area that has the slotted screwdriver blade type “thing” protruding from the middle. This matches up to the slot in the back of the cylinder assembly. Sorry, I’m not able to properly describe in words here. There are also two wires coming off the sensor cap, which plugin to the electric panel roughly behind the door armrest.

So, to better describe my situation, I broke off one of the sensor “legs” with the hole in it that holds the slotted sensor on to the back of the barrel locking mechanism (assembly). One side wasn’t enough to properly hold it on. Once it falls off, turning the key in the lock on my passenger door no longer rotates the slotted sensor, which passes the signal to the ICU that the passenger door has been unlocked by key and disables the alarm... so my alarm is still active after unlocking the door, hence the alarm goes off when I open it.

If anyone knows that part number and where I could pick one of these little beauties up, I’d certainly appreciate it.

Hope this helps!