I'm no fabricator or welder, but a heavy wheel/tire bouncing around up there on that long lever arm can tax those welds. I'd gusset that upright.
Fabricated a rear swing out for the 60 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter porqupine82
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I'm no fabricator or welder, but a heavy wheel/tire bouncing around up there on that long lever arm can tax those welds. I'd gusset that upright.
hey porqupine, 2nd or 3rd'ing the gusseting of that vertical. the welds look good from my couch
- Thread starter
- #23
Going to do that tomorrow if rain holds out. Gotta do final paint and I'm done. Got the Jerry can mounted up as well... also, I had a design flaw because I didn't account for the width of a 37 inch tire when opening the rear window hatch while the swing out was at 90 degrees. It hit the tire and I had to mount the tire more centered, in order to keep the tire tight to the truck how I like it.
you know the redneck fix woulda been to clearance the hatch, sawzall, 2 minutes, done!!! 
yeah, the simplest oversights can sometimes kick ya in the nuts. nice job on the simple design man.
yeah, the simplest oversights can sometimes kick ya in the nuts. nice job on the simple design man.
brian
SILVER Star
welds need some of work. you're going to learn pretty quickly how flexible steel really is. that single upright is going to be flapping around like a leaf in the breeze when your bouncing down the road. its a good thing you shortened it, as it was, there was a fair chance on the back of it catching the rear glass on a decent pothole or speed bump.
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- #26
Maybe it's an optical illusion but the tire is over 2 inches away from the glass. Closer to 3 inches. If it flexes that far I've got bigger problems.. thousand feet skyscrapers flex only a few feet in the wind. I just dont see this moving 3 inches unless the welds break, and they're burned pretty deep.
brian
SILVER Star
there is alot of cold lap shown.
can you explain what you are looking at ? @brian
not being a dick, just wanting to learn. thanks man
- Thread starter
- #29
The only cold lap I can see him talking about is the literal pot metal latch hook. Had to cut the amps down to keep from burning thru it. The rest seems to be good so perhaps he will point out what could be improved upon
brian
SILVER Star
the close up of the wheel stud...is cold lap or cold start.
and the one with the Phillips heads, is full of porosity.
there is under cut in a lot of places as well. alsounder fill in a few spots.
really should have started off on the garden furniture first, to a get a feel for things before starting on something like a spare tire carrier.
and the one with the Phillips heads, is full of porosity.
there is under cut in a lot of places as well. alsounder fill in a few spots.
really should have started off on the garden furniture first, to a get a feel for things before starting on something like a spare tire carrier.
Since people are mentioning gussets. You need four. One on each side of the vertical,
1/8” flat would work. You need one under the sloped piece that is welded to the vertical piece.
You need one inside that acute angle on the small vertical piece that the mounting plate is
welded to. If you can, try to have it touch the inside of the tire so it puts tension against the
rubber to eliminate the whole tire assembly from vibrating.
I had the neck of my tire rack crack all around welds and it actually fell off on a gravel road.
I had neglected to gusset that last piece.
1/8” flat would work. You need one under the sloped piece that is welded to the vertical piece.
You need one inside that acute angle on the small vertical piece that the mounting plate is
welded to. If you can, try to have it touch the inside of the tire so it puts tension against the
rubber to eliminate the whole tire assembly from vibrating.
I had the neck of my tire rack crack all around welds and it actually fell off on a gravel road.
I had neglected to gusset that last piece.
- Thread starter
- #32
Alright. I used 2.5x2.5 and the outer edges of the tube are rolled quite dramatically due to the size of the tube. It makes it exceptionally hard for a novice welder to get inside the crevice created when a tube is laid onto another tube at a 90 degree. Would a plate gusset be adequate in these locations? ETA Just saw where you said 1/8 flat would work, 10-4
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- Thread starter
- #33
Keep in mind this was all done with flux core wire and not gas. It's not ideal, and I totally understand that.
Yes, just like the other spot. I’ve just got my iPad, but this is mine. I used only 1/8” wall tube.
I was willing to compromise the strength for weight savings. It bit me on the ass a bit. I did make the inside bottom of the tire press to the vertical piece to reduce vibration, which I’m confident was working until
I switched rims and lost that pressure with less back space. Live and learn....
I think your welds look great for a first run! I agree on the gusset for the tall vertical from the swing-out and actually a plate like shown in cruiserpilot's picture is a good idea. Take it halfway down the swing-out arm and it will help with front to back rocking.
I would suggest adding a torch set to your metal shop. Could make quick work of the notches and great for a lot of other fab work. Can usually find one on CL pretty cheap.
I would suggest adding a torch set to your metal shop. Could make quick work of the notches and great for a lot of other fab work. Can usually find one on CL pretty cheap.
Get gas! Your welds will thank you.
- Thread starter
- #37
Thanks for the kind words. Yes a torch is definitely a must have. I ate thru a brand new grinder in 1 day, stupidly trying to get long cuts done quickly. All and all the bumper build was a great experience and I've ordered some premade gussets from Barnes4wd to save me the time of cutting them out to finish out the bumper
For angle grinders, I’ll only use Milwaukee. Cheap ones don’t last and in the end you’ll spend more than a good one.
my portaband Swag Off Road with Milwaukee band saw is great for cutting gussets.
my portaband Swag Off Road with Milwaukee band saw is great for cutting gussets.
Nice work considering it's your first outing with the welder.
Why/how is your Cruiser registered as a mobile home? (according to the license plate)
Why/how is your Cruiser registered as a mobile home? (according to the license plate)
- Thread starter
- #40
In Tennessee, if your vehicle is registered as an antique, you can use "era correct" license plates in lieu of your state issued antique tag. To do this you must keep your state issued tag inside the vehicle with you. (You can also choose to register the old plate as your original and not need to carry a plate in the car with you.
But I digress, The TCA does not define the length of an "era" nor does it place any limitations on the type of plate you use from said era. TN has some of the coolest and most colorful old plates made, and until the late 50s TN plates were shaped like the state boundary. I love old tags and own several. This is just the plate I'm running currently, and it may be different tomorrow.
Now with that said, therr are tags I would personally not use: old Disabled Veteran tags are damn cool, half white and half blue, split from top corner to bottom corner. This is an awesome plate, and the law doesnt specifically prohibit using this, however I just couldn't feel ok about running a DV plate and not being a DV. so I chose to run a TN mobile home tag from 1969, at least this week. May be different tomorrow!
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