F, 2F, 3F and 3FE rear main seal, oil pan gasket and clutch installation instructions

[orangefj45]

I’ve been asked countless times how we install these items so I thought it was about time I’d post a thread on here about it.
I was taught how to install these parts by a couple of people with VAST experience, one of them being none other than Mudrak.

First step is to remove the oil pan. The easiest way to do this is to remove all the bolts but one towards one of the ends at the front. Next, use a putty knife, or a very thin chisel, and working forward from the back of the engine, taking care now to gouge the engine block itself.
Then remove the remaining gasket and any adhesives/silicone & clean the block and pan surface until they’re both spotless. This is crucial.
Next step ( some people don’t like doing this ) is to loosen the rear main cap bolts 3 turns.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids @ Cruiser Brothers

 

[orangefj45]

To remove the rear main seal ( this engine had an aftermarket rear main seal installed by somebody else, that field almost right away ) I use a small flat blade screw driver at a 45 degree upward angle. I pry the seal out at the top of the crank shaft so there’s no chance of scratching or gouging the crankshaft seal surface.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids @ Cruiser Brothers

 

[orangefj45]

Next I use a pilot bearing removal tool to extract the pilot bearing. There are a number of ways to handle this as has been discussed in length on other threads.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids @ Cruiser Brothers

 

[orangefj45]

Clean the area around the rear main ( crank and block ) and then wipe it down with a rag and some break cleaner.
We only use OEM Toyota rear main seals and oil pan gaskets at the shop. It’s a time consuming job so there’s no sense in trying to take shortcuts.
Next, I apply a small amount of oil to the seal surface on the crankshaft, as well as the inside of the rear main seal.
I use a thin film of FIPG or engine grade automotive silicone on the outside of the seal.
Doing so will help the seal slide in place during installation.
You can use the factory rear main seal installation tool, or your fingers with a straight pick if you do not have the tool at hand.
Gently align the rear main seal with the crankshaft. Then slide the straight pick along the seal surface of the crank. This will help the rear main seal, inner lip slip over the end of the crankshaft.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids @ Cruiser Brothers

 

[orangefj45]

Once you have confirmed that the seal inner lip is installed properly on the crank, push the seal about 90% of the way into the bore. The silicone will help it slide in place as well as the oil on the seal surface.
Then tighten your rear main cap bolts and torque them to 58 foot pounds as per FSM
Lastly, push the seal in until it is even with the block and rear main cap surface. Wipe off any excess silicone and inspect closeley.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids @ Cruiser Brothers

 

[orangefj45]

Now it is time to install the engine oil pan gasket. Wipe down the oil pan, gasket surface and the gasket surface on the block one more time. Inspect everything closely, especially the rounded areas at the end of the engine block. Make sure you have removed all gasket material, adhesives, and silicone. This will ensure proper casket fit, and a great seal with no leaks.
I use Permatex “copper spray gasket” on the block, pan, and liberally on the gasket itself in multiple coats. Then apply a small amount of silicone in the four corners where the flat bottom of the block meets the round main caps.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids @ Cruiser Brothers

 

[orangefj45]

I then use a set of alinement dowels which I made by modifying a set off 8 x 1.25 metric bolts. I cut off the 12mm hex bolt head and then use a small cutoff wheel to cut a slot for a flat blade screwdriver.
I use two dowels on each side of the block, typically on the third bolt hole from the ends.
Then I slide the gasket onto the dowels, followed by the oil pan. Making sure that the half moon shapes at the end of the gasket are seated into the main caps perfectly.
Georg @ Valley Hybrids @ Cruiser Brothers

 

[orangefj45]

Next, I grab the previously cleaned oil pan bolts and thread them in by finger. Once you have a number of them installed, the dowels can be removed and replaced with bolts.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids @ Cruiser Brothers

 

[orangefj45]

Then I go through a number of sequences of tightening the bolts working imy way out from the middle of the pan in a zigzag fashion. I do not try to tighten the bolts all the way down right away, because I want the pan to end up perfectly parallel with the block.
This typically takes 3 to 5 cycles. You will know when the bolts are tight enough when you see the gasket barely bulging out around the bolt area.
Once you are at this point, I remove one bolt at a time in the same sequence and apply a small drop of red Loctite. It is important to do this last step to make sure the bolts do not come loose. If you put Loctite on the bolts before you install them, Then it will not help retain the bolts since it has time to dry between torque sequences.
When I put Loctite on each pole, I also mark the head of the bolts, so I know which ones have Loctite applied and have been torqued properly.
This can be a little time-consuming, but it saves time and extra work in the long run.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids @ Cruiser Brothers

 

[orangefj45]

In the last pic on the previous reply, you can see that I already installed the new factory pilot bearing. I use a small aluminum seal driver to do so in order not to damage the bearing during installation.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids @ Cruiser Brothers

 

[orangefj45]

The next step is to install the freshly machined flywheel. Make sure you wipe down the clutch surface and clean your bolts properly before installation. We apply a small amount of sealer or Loctite to the flywheel bolts and torque them to 50 foot pounds.
Make sure to use sealer on these threads, otherwise, you will develop an oil leak since the holes in the crankshaft go all the way through. If oil travels along these bolts,, it will contaminate the clutch disc which will cause premature clutch failure, and it doesn’t smell great.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids @ Cruiser Brothers

 

[orangefj45]

Now it is time to install a new throw out bearing on the original hub. To do so, put the hub on your workbench, add a small amount of oil to the area where the bearing will be seated, and then use the proper diameter piece of steel tubing or seal installer or a factory tool to push the bearing onto the hub.
It is crucial that the seal installer or other installation tool is the same diameter as the inner race of the bearing. If you hit the bearing surface or use that to press the bearing down, it will damage the bearing internally, which will dramatically reduce life expectancy and cause premature failure.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids @ Cruiser Brothers

 

[orangefj45]

Next, you need to attach the clutch fork to the throwout bearing hub with the two clips. We typically replace these clips anytime we replace the bearing. They are fairly inexpensive and readily available at Toyota. We keep a number of these in stock also.
Use a small amount of anti-seize where the clutch fork makes contact with the hub. We also applied anti-seize to the divot in the fork, where it pivots on the clutch pivot in the bell housing.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids @ Cruiser Brothers

 

[orangefj45]

Now it is time to install the clutch disc along with the pressure plate. Make sure you wipe down the clutch surface on the pressure plate since they typically have a thin film of oil applied before shipment to make sure they don’t rust before installation.
We always install new factory pressure plate bolts when replacing a clutch. These need to be torqued to 22 ft. pounds. Since they are fairly small, I do not like to torque them more than once. A broken off bolt in a flywheel will set you back quite a bit. So replacing the bolts is cheap insurance. We keep these in stock at all times as well.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids @ Cruiser Brothers

 

[orangefj45]

You can now install your clutch fork and throwout bearing assembly, followed by the transmission combo itself.

I hope this helps explain the process and simplifies things for the DIY crowd.

We have installed literally hundreds of these at the shop. And we keep all components mentioned in stock at all times.

Happy to help!

Georg @ Valley Hybrids @ Cruiser Brothers
Shop 209-475-8808
Sales@valleyhybrids.com

 

[OGBeno]

 

[red66toy]

What a fantastic and clear explanation! Thank you.

 

[Mark W]

To remove the rear main seal ( this engine had an aftermarket rear main seal installed by somebody else, that field almost right away )

Speaking strictly from personal experience, I have never seen failure of the rear main oil seal in any F series engine unless it was damaged during or installed incorrectly.

And unless it is a fresh install, or the bolts have been locktite'd or revisited a time (or two), I have nevrr seen an F series oil pan that did not need to be tightened.
I have had a hell of a lot of people contact me "needing a new rear main oil seal"... when all they needed was an oil pan retighten.

Mark...

 

[Sirlosealot]

You can now install your clutch fork and throwout bearing assembly, followed by the transmission combo itself.

I hope this helps explain the process and simplifies things for the DIY crowd.

We have installed literally hundreds of these at the shop. And we keep all components mentioned in stock at all times.

Happy to help!

Georg @ Valley Hybrids @ Cruiser Brothers
Shop 209-475-8808
Sales@valleyhybrids.com

Thank you for that detailed report.

 

[CaddoCruiser]

I use Permatex “copper spray gasket” on the block, pan, and liberally on the gasket itself in multiple coats. Then apply a small amount of silicone in the four corners where the flat bottom of the block meets the round main caps.

Thank you so much for this writeup. I have my pan off so this is perfect timing. When you say "silicone in the four corners" could I use Toyota FIPG instead? I'm not sure if silicone and FIPG are synonymous. Does Toyota FIPG still work with Permatex "copper spray gasket"?

I also noticed that in one of the last pictures before you tighten the pan bolts there is silicone in the corners between block and gasket (as you mention), as well as the gasket and the pan (not mentioned). Do you put silicone on those corners on the pan too? Or did it just ooze up there?