Extended travel on the front of a 120 series

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I see a lot of companies offering "extended travel" front coil overs for the 120 series. These topics for discussion are based on the fact a large majority of us are running stock components except for the coil overs. Note: I am not talking about "Long Travel" kits.

Now we all know the factory uppers have to be replaced but has anyone looked at the lower ball control arm's range of motion? Having just replace my lower control arms for torn bushings (common failure at stock height) and worn ball joints this concerns me.

I know Total Chaos makes factory length lowers with uniball joints but for many reasons I don't use uniball or heim joints in street cars. Not to mention the TC arms are pricey.

Most of us use factory lowers, so my question is at what point in droop does the lower ball joint bind and at what point do we compromise the rubber in the bushings?

Second concern is CV axles.

The stock CV joints have a decent range of motion but they do have an interference issues with the shaft and the inner cup and the inner boot on itself.

With a diff drop we give ourselves a bit more room for droop but has anyone actually checked clearance at full droop with "extended travel" units installed?


Third is front/rear sway bar links / operation

Most of these kits come with a relocation/drop block. These are more for clearance than function. We need to take a look at the actual sway bar angle and what the end link is actually doing. I've seen a ton of 120's with marks on the lower coil buckets where the sway bar contacts them. Why and how is this happening? Will extended sway bar end links fix this? (Why does no one make a extended link with stock style ends?!).

The rear end links need to be extended with pretty much any lift as the angle goes wrong fast.

Any information / measurements/ facts would be greatly appreciated.

Any component failure information would be great too.

Please keep opinions to a minimum. :p
 
I have been running extended travel on mine for a few years and I can confirm my lower control arm bushings (inner) are toast from the added movement. They are also old, so I am sure that didn't help! I am replacing the bushings with poly as they are a bit more forgiving in the flexy department.
 
In short, has anyone looked at the damage that too much droop can cause?
 
Given that this is the same drivetrain at the 4R and FJ, I think we are in league with regard to this question. I don't know of anything in particular regarding "more droop" causing damage over time. In most cases I think the wear and tear is probably already done (old bushings, etc wearing out), and not directly correlated to the lift or the travel.

I can say I have wheeled my GX pretty hard for three years and I don't have any massive issues with wear, just normal offroad wear and tear that you have to live with.
 
Dan- since you have a ton of miles with the lift, the inner bushings are a given but how has your lower ball joint and CV boot wear been? Do you run a diff drop?

On a side note: if you do a front lift, loosen the control arm bolts till you get the truck back on the ground to help avoid tearing the bushings.
 
I am running the icon extended travel coilovers, and I have tested for binding in the CV shafts. What I found was that oem shafts were okay, but the aftermarket replacement on one side was slightly binding the inner joint at full droop. I bought a reman CV shaft from NAPA which was a rebuilt oem shaft to fix the problem.

I recall checking the lower ball joint for binding and didn't find a problem when I had the coilover disconnected. It was capable of more droop than the shock.

I have light racing upper control arms. The ball joints in the arms were replaced last year under warranty due to play but now they have some play in them again, kind of disappointing.

My lower control arm bushings were pretty bad so I replaced them with aftermarket rubber bushings which didn't last at all. Then I replaced those with whiteline polyurethane bushings and they have been great, just tricky to install. Because of the knurled surface inside the bushing, the grease stays in place and they don't squeak almost 2 years later. Also they don't squish all over the place like the rubber bushings.

I ditched my front sway bar so I don't have any issues with it.
 
Lower ball joint is fine, CV boots are fine too. No issues. Pretty sure the inner lower control arm bushings went bad due to age and no wear and tear to be honest. They are original at 160k miles.
 

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