Extended cab 45 SWB from a 40

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afraptor22 said:
I spent some time yesterday and re-measured everything for the rear 4-link. I think the issue may be roll-oversteer and not bump steer. When I initiate a turn with the wheel, the vehicle starts a turn and then a half second later with no more wheel input the truck starts to turn more, so you end up having to catch it with the wheel. It's not so abrupt that it's dangerous but really annoying and takes way more effort to drive than I want.
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This is what I ended up with using the TMR customs combined frame side brackets. I think I need to get the 2-degrees roll oversteer to 2-degrees roll understeer. Playing with the calculator it looks like moving the lower links, frame side in and down to triangulate it more will give me a 4-degree swing in roll steer. I think I can take a piece of 3/16" 2x4 tube and go across the frame under where the links mount now and get what I need.
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I may have to french the link brackets into the 2x4 a little bit, because the lower they go the lower my anti-squat number goes. Currently at 93% it seems to deliver torque nicely.

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I bet you’re on to something with the oversteer.
I only know from reading, as opposed to experience, but Treefrog on irate, the author of the link calculator, has seemed to me to be a lot less concerned about the anti numbers as time has gone on, but is still very concerned about oversteer numbers.
I made sure to have understeer but had to compromise on my anti numbers and I’m at 63% on the rear with 50% drive bias.

I would think 93% is plenty high especially if you can achieve it and understeer.
 
Mike Shull said:
Can we see a picture of your steering looking at the front end from directly in front of the axle? Something like what I posted of mine below?

I get a tiny bit of bump steer when I’m traveling down the highway and I hit a giant pothole (massive, life-threatening sized pothole) but otherwise it has no bump steer at all and it drives fairly straight. I am curious to see how your steering set up looks.

Packaging my panhard bar was quite the task and I totally get what you’re talking about.

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Ya I'm very jealous of how flat your panhard and steering are. I have been driving it more and just got used to the way it steers for now. Maybe this winter I'll take the front axle out and convert from the stock Ford ladder bars to a true 3-link and repackage the panhard and steering gearbox.
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The drag link and the panhard are pretty close to the same angle, but the curve of the panhard makes it look off.

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Sure has come a long way. Great work!
 
Very kool ! Nice work.
 
afraptor22 said:
Ya I'm very jealous of how flat your panhard and steering are. I have been driving it more and just got used to the way it steers for now. Maybe this winter I'll take the front axle out and convert from the stock Ford ladder bars to a true 3-link and repackage the panhard and steering gearbox.
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The drag link and the panhard are pretty close to the same angle, but the curve of the panhard makes it look off.

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Those angles on mine have changed a bit since March because I had to lift it a few inches to get the right travel from the shocks. I probably lowered my front shock towers too far when I was adjusting them for shorter shocks, which was a good lesson. I went ahead with the rest of the build while I waited 18 months for the coilovers and I misjudged something in the process.

My drag link might be a touch higher than yours, and I used a double sheer setup to achieve that. I’m really not sure whether that would make a difference in how mine steers as I don’t know how it would have steered with the stock knuckles and steering arms.

Either way your cruiser is looking really sharp and I will be watching for that video! Nice work. It looks great.
 
Wow I’d love to see yours and mine side by side!
The trucks, ya filthy animals, the trucks!

I’m afraid to go east and wheel, tight trails not friendly to long wheelbases, I’ve been told.
 
Fixed the oversteer, or rear steer. It was not enough triangulation between all 4 rear links, so the axle wasn't completely locked laterally. I welded new upper brackets about 10" further back and shortened the rear upper links adding 5-degrees of triangulation. Instant fix and much better driving vehicle. Now working on full doors with roll down windows. What a pain!

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Lots to repair on this door since it was in a roll over and the top frame was all crooked. Figured it was a good one to start with.
 
afraptor22 said:
Fixed the oversteer, or rear steer. It was not enough triangulation between all 4 rear links, so the axle wasn't completely locked laterally. I welded new upper brackets about 10" further back and shortened the rear upper links adding 5-degrees of triangulation. Instant fix and much better driving vehicle. Now working on full doors with roll down windows. What a pain!

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Lots to repair on this door since it was in a roll over and the top frame was all crooked. Figured it was a good one to start with.
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So, while you’re here…..
Pay attention to the gap at the door and the rain gutter and sealing trim. One of the biggest problems I’ve had is sealing the gap there, and it looks like yours sits low too. I have no idea why it would be short, but mine turned out short and I wished I could have seen it coming, I would have made my window frames taller. Before you get the glass cut.
I doubled up some door seal and it doesn’t look horrible when you’re not looking at it.

ETA I feel your pain!
But good fix for the oversteer!
 
Ditcherman said:
So, while you’re here…..
Pay attention to the gap at the door and the rain gutter and sealing trim. One of the biggest problems I’ve had is sealing the gap there, and it looks like yours sits low too. I have no idea why it would be short, but mine turned out short and I wished I could have seen it coming, I would have made my window frames taller. Before you get the glass cut.
I doubled up some door seal and it doesn’t look horrible when you’re not looking at it.

ETA I feel your pain!
But good fix for the oversteer!
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Good point, they looked low to me but they are the same height as another stock set I have and the hinge points are fixed as is the windshield bracket. I will probably take the time to clean up the B pillar angle and the roof line when I finalize the fit.
 
afraptor22 said:
Good point, they looked low to me but they are the same height as another stock set I have and the hinge points are fixed as is the windshield bracket. I will probably take the time to clean up the B pillar angle and the roof line when I finalize the fit.
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I can't figure out why my doors are short of the roof; the windshield is a fixed point, the b pillar is the same height as the old one (the rear top that originally sat there, probably just like yours), and the bottom of the door fits the profile of my Aqualu tub (I had to fab my hinges on the b pillar). I test fit my doors but made my roof very last thing so I didn't see the gap until too late.
You're doing it in a more beneficial order so I thought I'd point it out. If I had it to do over again I'd raise my window frame.
 
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