Awesome! Exactly the info I was looking for! Thanks!
Extended BumpStops... (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter nitteo
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I've got 35x12.5x18 with double Wheelers up front. Have never been able to get any fender contact, even with some sharp and high speed hits. They work.
Could wheeler’s fronts be put on in both positions with 1.5” in the rear and tb crank up front . For 295/70/18’s
The way I look at it is the rig comes with two bump stops that are at the same size stock. So why would installing two aftermarket of same spec be any different?
I’ll have a very similar set up to you but with the timbrens.
Btw, I have one of your pics as my background on my MacBook.
The way I look at it is the rig comes with two bump stops that are at the same size stock. So why would installing two aftermarket of same spec be any different?
To me, it's the same concept with just larger beefier bump stops compared to the originals.
Timbrens will work fine. The Wheelers cost less. It was substituting the front with Wheelers to lower the total cost.
Thank you,
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So with just one of the bump stops up front, they don’t quite do the job. These are SCS F5 wheels. This is after some very hard testing. Under normal off-road conditions I didn’t experience any rubbing or slicing. I think I’ll add another pair of stops to the front and see how that goes. If that doesn’t work, we may roll the fenders a bit. Just reporting back with some real world testing.
Dual wheelers front bumps with SCS F5 - 33" tires - Timbrens in the rear. Real-world use case. Photo credit @ChristopherPrice
Thanks for posting this. Do you have any side profile pics with the max stuff on front wheels?
Nothing at extremes like this. Maybe I can make some.
I’m running dual bump stops now and there’s been no change, the suspension will still compress enough to allow fender rub with this wheel and tire setup. This is all going to be pretty dependent on ride height and what shock you’re running, but I wouldn’t look at these bump stops as real solution if you’re worried about rubbing fenders. It happens in the fast paced stuff with hard hits. The video posted above is some easy crawling, it’s doubtful myself or anyone would be compressing/using the bump stops much if at all in that situation.
Agreed! I have only 1 set of extended stops in the front (on the rearward position). I destroyed my fender liner on fast hoops on sand dunes when my front wheels reportedly lifted off the ground several times and then crashed hard on the way down. This is with the standard AHC and 34.5" tires.
Since last time, I have added front bumpstops (on the forward position). Happy to report that this last time on the trails, my front tires didn't destroy the fender liners!
Looking for some advice on broken bolt extraction.
Replacing bump stops with Perry Parts. Fronts went well but all the bolts on the rears snapped. I don't have power tools so I just got my wrench on there and the heads just twisted off. Lots of crud in the frame maybe rotted them out and I'm never patient enough with the PB
Anyway, it seems like if I remove the rear tire I've got enough clearance to get a drill in there , hopefully.
So what's the technique here ? The bolt is super rusty so I doubt I'd be able to extract it back out . Was thinking just drill right through it and then re tap ? Maybe have to tap a larger size but hopefully not because I'd have to modify the bump stop for bigger bolt.
Shoot that may not work if it's just a little welded nut I side the frame .
Replacing bump stops with Perry Parts. Fronts went well but all the bolts on the rears snapped. I don't have power tools so I just got my wrench on there and the heads just twisted off. Lots of crud in the frame maybe rotted them out and I'm never patient enough with the PB
Anyway, it seems like if I remove the rear tire I've got enough clearance to get a drill in there , hopefully.
So what's the technique here ? The bolt is super rusty so I doubt I'd be able to extract it back out . Was thinking just drill right through it and then re tap ? Maybe have to tap a larger size but hopefully not because I'd have to modify the bump stop for bigger bolt.
Shoot that may not work if it's just a little welded nut I side the frame .
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If you have enough of the busted bolt sticking out, weld a nut on the end. The heat shock will generally free it and it'll spin right out.
If that's not an option, a long soak in penetrating oil, I'm talking spray it a couple times a day for several days running, then go at it with a left handed drill/extractor. If you're lucky it'll spin free, if not then you'll eventually drill it out. Then you'll have to deal with the damaged/missing threads, but there's options there too.
So would you recommend upgrading all 4 bump stops or just the front position?
I ask bc I put Timbren in the front (“rear” location) and still get tire fender contact. Should I move them to the front or buy an additional pair ?
All 4 bumpstops just spread the load on the LCA more evenly - that's how Toyota designed their bumpstops too. My up travel was the same for 2 or 4 bumpstops.
I do think if you have only 2 bumpstops, then it is better to put them on the rear position as that probably gets to see the most stress (the TBs are connected there!). Also, the manufacturers I checked with recommended rear positions as well.
Gotcha! And thanks for getting back to me. I’m removing the Timbrens and installing 4 super bumps - I saw where you trimmed yours, I did not hoping they don’t prematurely contact
Trimming them was a mistake, I just blindly followed someone else's advice. I didn't trum the second pair I installed on the forward position and they have been just fine
