Exhaust Pipe and big improvement

[BROKEROB1]

ive used apw they are very quick with shipping, how hard was the bosal bolt up?

Not too bad to bolt up... depends on how "beat" your junk is. You have to be crafty with a SawZall and I had to slightly bend one of the brackets, but it took about an hour and some change. I didn't want to put on an expensive replacement, but at the same time the MRS is happy to have the rig quiet again. BTW, I don't have any fancy smancy muffler shop torches or anything like that.

 

[Lockd97]

My exhaust guy uses a 4in mandrel to bend 3in pipe. It ovals the 3in pipe at a fraction of those prices.


ST

Well then hook these guys up instead of bragging about it..........

 

[Ting]

nice write up Romer.

 

[sseaman]

thanks brokerob1

 

[BROKEROB1]

Exhaust Follow up

HI Guys,

Just a quick follow to some of the items as mentioned.... I used a replacement Bosal exhaust. It really did look similar to Mr T's OEM. It also bolted up relatively easily (some very slight manipulation with a hammer). Every single hanger/hook was broken on my junk, so I had to get creative. I have included a pic below of the rubber mount that I used from Advance Auto (I think it was $3. I also took a pic of the package it came in. Let me know if you have additional questions.

 

[JerseyCruiser]

I had some damage from Flat Nasty with some of my exhaust hangers and a section of pipe that needed to be replaced. We (the shop) replaced the 2.5" section between the cat and muffler, didn't want to do anything to mess up the O2 sensor.

I previously had replaced the muffler with a Magnaflow.

The pipe from the muffler back got replaced with a 3" pipe (vs. the 2.5") and I had the resonator (spell??) removed. I also angled the tailpipe out behind the wheel so it would not get scrunched by the bumper again.

The Toyota installed pipe had an area where it was routed above the frame that was pinched that brought it down to about 1" there. The tech said that was from the factory and several of my friends said they have the same thing. They did this to make it easier to route the pipe.

Well the 3" pipe fits in that area without have to crimp it if you make the right bends before and after. It's tight, but does not bump anything.

So I removed the restrictive pinch above the frame. Replaced the 2.5" from the muffler back with 3" and lost the resonator.

Boy can I tell the difference. Not sure if you could on one that isn't supercharged. It's much quicker on the pickup.

I didn't have my camera at the muffler shop, so I don't have any pics of the pinch.

Simple, cheap mod that I would recommend. Was thinking of doing some kind of custom exhaust, but with the 3" pipe and the Magnaflow, I feel I have reached all the customization required.

Ken,

Do to the fact that you went with a larger pipe diameter over the frame do you have any issues with too much heat or melted carpet in that area? I have seen some posts where this has happened without a body lift to gain clearance over the larger pipe.

Thanks
George

 

[Romer]

Ken,

Do to the fact that you went with a larger pipe diameter over the frame do you have any issues with too much heat or melted carpet in that area? I have seen some posts where this has happened without a body lift to gain clearance over the larger pipe.

Thanks
George

Been running almost a year now and no issues

 

[JerseyCruiser]

Been running almost a year now and no issues

Thats good. Looks like I'm headed for an aftermarket setup like yours, mine is crack,rotted, and hanging from probably one mount from the cat back. I might need cats as well as they might be blocked due to the excess heat my wife complains about! I like the aftermarket system over stock for the price and more importantly the extra clearance. My other question is I would like the noise to be as close to stock as possible and not droned out while on the highway what if anything did you do to make yours quieter?

Thanks
George

 

[Romer]

I would go with a 3" single cat option. better performnace, less in cab heat and much less $$$.

Thinking about replacing mine.

 

[JerseyCruiser]

I would go with a 3" single cat option. better performnace, less in cab heat and much less $$$.

Thinking about replacing mine.

Even if they are not clogged, the flanges have disintegrated and the heat shield that covers them rattles even after putting new bolts in it, plus I like the extra clearance from losing the stock cats. Any idea on what would be a good option for a replacement?

 

[SUMOTOY]

Summit has everything you need for a 3in mandrel system. They sell 3in mandrel bent pipe in two different radius, the smaller one is almost exact for the over the frame loop (I did a practical visual in the parking lot of Summit Retail store a couple months ago). For the 93-94, they have a 2 x 2.5 into 3in collector for the header pipes (leave the 02 where they are), single 59959 Magnaflow spun cat, lots of choices on center mufflers.

Ken, the problem I see with a side exit exhaust, is no room to put in a rear muffler. IME, you need to have a muffler behind the axle, it's the long pipe you need to take the trumpet resonance out of. Without going custom muffler, about the only one you can use as a shorty hi flow replacement appears to be the 4in round dynomax (12in case length) - WLK 24222, which dictates at least a far rear corner exit.

The real trick is that clearance at the back axle-frame hump. When I took my prospective parts into my exhaust guy, he wanted a couple days to work that clearance (thinking using the mandrel pipe, ovalled to make the clearance, as apposed to crimped to make the clearance). I haven't given him the project yet, but acquired all the parts for a 3in single cat, dual in line muffler from summit for about 400USD (header pipe collector to downturn tip). Once installed, I'll list out the actual part numbers and take some pics.

Regarding the question on SC gas mileage, on a 2000 mile road trip out east last month, I saw no difference in overal highwayl mileage. I run stock tire sizes and *weight*. I saw a hi of 18.5 and an average ~16.5-17 highway. BTW, I also bypassed my fuel pump resistor for the trip.

Keep the thing out of boost in town, I can get the same mileage as a stocker. Since I don't, I see around 11-12 city.

HTH

Scott Justusson
94 FZJ80 Supercharged

 

[Romer]

Ken, the problem I see with a side exit exhaust, is no room to put in a rear muffler. IME, you need to have a muffler behind the axle, it's the long pipe you need to take the trumpet resonance out of. Without going custom muffler, about the only one you can use as a shorty hi flow replacement appears to be the 4in round dynomax (12in case length) - WLK 24222, which dictates at least a far rear corner exit.

Don't understand the comment. I have a magnaflow Muffler in the same spot as the stock muffler was.

I cut off the resonator and have the exhaust exiting behind the rear axle, but under the vehicle pointed down and to the side so I don't damage it.

I installed a glass pak muffler prior to the exit to quite it down a bit.

Still a bit throaty, but I think most of that is because it exits under my truck rather than the side or behind.

 

[Romer]

Here is the picture of the glass pipe below my subtank. just out of the picture, the exhaust angles to the ground and side for the output.

Note this is behind the rear axle

 

[SUMOTOY]

Don't understand the comment. I have a magnaflow Muffler in the same spot as the stock muffler was.

I cut off the resonator and have the exhaust exiting behind the rear axle, but under the vehicle pointed down and to the side so I don't damage it.

I installed a glass pak muffler prior to the exit to quite it down a bit.

Still a bit throaty, but I think most of that is because it exits under my truck rather than the side or behind.

Sorry ken, I read "side exit" wrong. On my 'temp' fix exhaust (long 2.5 glasspack, no rear resonator - very rice racer sound), I did the same thing, kinda points down and out, vs straight down? I'm hoping the dynomax does better than a glasspack in terms of noise. Glasspacks tend to develop their own resonance as part of what gives them the name. Eitd: Looking at your pic Ken, isn't the glasspack the lowest part of the rear clearance. I figured a 4in muffler would tuck up against the stock routing really well. Doesn't look like that's possible with the subtank tho.

That pipe pinch at the back appears to be an exhaust shop nightmare. I'm hoping to avoid pinching at all, and go either oval, or dual pipe if I absolutely need to.

As a point of reference, at some point this spring I blew off the rear part of the stock resonator. I ignored it, figuring I was going after a complete system. Within a few weeks, I had melted the RR bumper plastic trim.

SJ

 

[Dusty]

I have 1 oe cat and a cherry bomb glasspack behind the turbo. no other muffling. no coffe can. Like this my cruiser is much quieter than my heep GC with a flomaster

the Moral: get a turbo

 

[SUMOTOY]

I have 1 oe cat and a cherry bomb glasspack behind the turbo. no other muffling. no coffe can. Like this my cruiser is much quieter than my heep GC with a flomaster

the Moral: get a turbo

Turbos are mufflers by definition Dusty, so are cats. The flowmasters are really loud IMO/E. That said, it's also my experience (mostly with turbo applications) that 1 muffler vs two means there is a resonance somewhere in the rpm range. Murphy's Law dictates that's right at the rpm where you drive the most.

I'm currently running a 19in 2.5 glasspack, and ran it with cats prior to their getting lost... In both cases, the trumpetting under boost is really bad over 3500rpm (insert ricer boy sound). Also with the removal of my rear resonator without the aid of wrenches on the stock exhaust, started the ricer sound. With that in mind, I'm pretty convinced with these various tested 'mods' that a rear resonator is necessary for a stock sounding truck, which is my goal.

I'm hoping to get the 3in mandrel exhaust components I purchased from Summit installed in the next week or two.

SJ
94 FZJ80 Supercharged