exhaust manifold studs

[Jan-78FJ40]

What is the best way to get a broken exhaust manifold stud out of it's hole?

The stud is broken without anything protruding, and it is the last one, closest to the firewall. Engine (2H) is out of the truck.
drill and re-tap? reverse drill bits?

thanks for the help,
Jan

 

[brownbear]

yes drill, but use an extractor. they sell little kits at sears and snap on. its not a huge drill bit. def not the size of the stud.

also spray a little penetrating oil around it. might help before you extract.

be carefull with the extractor, if you break it then its really hard to drill(hardened steel)

also might need a little heat from a torch, lightly of course.

good luck, it will come out

 

[crushers]

i disagree with using an extractor, it that bugger breaks off then you are SOL. i use reverse drill bits starting small and going up in stages till the stud breaks free and twists out.
as a last resort when all else has failed then use an extractor (it truely is a tool created by the devil of wrenching himself)

okay, so i am a wee bit opinionated with this comment...
;^)

 

[Stone]

Sheldon helped me with mine when the stud closest to the firewal in my 13B-T broke. Luckily for us, the broken portion inside the block was loose enough for me to turn and take out with a dentist's pick. And I had already rented a 90 degree drill to do Wayne's reverse cut method...lol.

 

[tlcruiserman]

What is the best way to get a broken exhaust manifold stud out of it's hole?

The stud is broken without anything protruding, and it is the last one, closest to the firewall. Engine (2H) is out of the truck.
drill and re-tap? reverse drill bits?

thanks for the help,
Jan

Hmm,

Interesting comments, I would have to agree with Wayne, only because every time I use and extractor the damn thing breaks off and then I used up yet another diamond carb drill bit Jan i do not have any reverse drill bits, but the "devel tool" is in a small red case in the drill bit drawer. Brown bear does have the correct proceedure if we need to the use the devel tool, lube and heat and very carefull.

I will say that I think if any tool is worth the money spent on it I think the better easy out bit ($$) is probably worth every penny. Mine are only craftsman - (aka Junk).

Michael

 

[fjbj40]

here is my tip again....drill small hole...3/32 ....through stud...you will know when you are through if you take your time . Use penetrating oil with the small straw on it and insert it in hole....fill er up with penetrating oil...let sit a day or so, maybe less . Hit it with a punch a few times and use reverse drill bit or extractor ( very carefully if extractor) , have used this procedure tons of times and it works excellant .
HTH , Daryl

 

[Jan-78FJ40]

Hmm,

Interesting comments, I would have to agree with Wayne, only because every time I use and extractor the damn thing breaks off and then I used up yet another diamond carb drill bit Jan i do not have any reverse drill bits, but the "devel tool" is in a small red case in the drill bit drawer. Brown bear does have the correct proceedure if we need to the use the devel tool, lube and heat and very carefull.

I will say that I think if any tool is worth the money spent on it I think the better easy out bit ($$) is probably worth every penny. Mine are only craftsman - (aka Junk).

Michael

Thanks All for the comments.
I will get reverse drill bits and easy outs, and add them to your tools Michael.
Jan

 

[brownbear]

I've used several different extractors.

snap op has some that are a much better.

the kit below, in the red case are inexpensive and include the lh drill bits.

38 bucks for the kit.

personally I would not use those type of extractors, I have had them break,

I like the stubby ones on the other pic, you can buy them seperate and buy the appropriate drill bit to drill the exact size. the deep you drill the better bite they get.

first drill, it relieves the pressure on the stud, then use pen oil, let it soak. time is better. then heat the fawk out of it with a propane torch on low. then insert the extractor, try it lightly, watch the extractor, it gives a sign before it breaks. it will feel like its turning, but you are only twisting the extractor metal, then it will snap.

if you see it twist, then its scrap, turn it the other way, get it out. then go back to more lube and more heat, try a new one.

if you stick in dry, and snap it off, you are hooped.

I've had good luck with extractors. but carefull is eseential......... use a small wrench or short wrench with the extractor, nothing with long lever action. otherwise you can out too much uummmph into it.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?item_ID=10527&group_ID=1262

 

[brownbear]

here is my tip again....drill small hole...3/32 ....through stud...you will know when you are through if you take your time . Use penetrating oil with the small straw on it and insert it in hole....fill er up with penetrating oil...let sit a day or so, maybe less . Hit it with a punch a few times and use reverse drill bit or extractor ( very carefully if extractor) , have used this procedure tons of times and it works excellant .
HTH , Daryl

I agree with this. just be happy the stud doesn't have a lock ring eh? like aircraft ones on continetals.

been along time since I trired drilling and punching those bas turds.


this method above will be the safest