Exhaust manifold studs - (1 Viewer)

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Oct 27, 2008
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Location
San Jose, CA
Seeking input before I jump into the abyss on this one. I have the entire front suspension pulled on my 2000 100 series. Rebuilding the wheel hubs, bushings, etc. at 374K

The infamous cracked-ticking exhaust manifold issues has been there for years and, while staring at the accessible manifolds, decided its now or never. Pulling the manifolds was not a huge challenge once all suspension stuff is out of the way. Got both out and only the passenger side front port showed a crack similar to what others have posted here. I was expecting worse but for a California-based car, the manifolds are in very good shape and the internal runners were very clean. Got it welded up nice and we're good to go.

Now - one of the studs snapped on the flange going into the drivers side cat. I also had 3 studs back out of the head and one stud snapped at the head :mad:. It took about 1 hour to pull the drivers side manifold and it took 2+ hours to extract that one broken bolt. I tried using extractors and went through all three extractor sizes with no luck. Next, I started drilling the center and moving up one bit size at a time as to not damage the threads. I then used a 8x1.25 tap and tapped the bore in hopes of scoring out the screw threads. Once through, went to 9mm and eventually to 10mm. I'm convinced Toyota sources these studs from Satan :devil: directly. I've worked many snapped bolts in the past but this was a BEAST to extract.

I have a fresh set of OEM studs/nuts arriving soon with the original plan of swapping all of them out fresh. I'm not double guessing that.
  • What if I snap more studs trying to extract them from the head?
  • If I reuse the current studs, what if studs snap when retorquing the manifold back down?
So, to swap or not swap? That is the question.

I do have Torx E8 socket that I presume would strip the head of the bolt before it would snap off. Arguably there is no rust at the stud or in the head making removal easier but I DID snap one already.

Would like inputs from other peoples experiences here.

Scott C.
 
Since you already are waiting on new studs, might as well use them. I would use plenty of anti-seize and torque them German-like (good and tight). Personally, I would have gone to Ace HDWR and gotten some grade 10.9 studs and anti-seize and popped them in. With anti-seize though, you have to go back and retorque them after a couple hot/cold cycles. But if you ever need to remove them, it'll be a breeze and you won't be breaking them. I get all my hardware from Ace HDWR as they seem to carry the good stuff (grade 10.9).
 

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