Entry level vs. top tier suspension kits

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Thanks for the replies in regards to the UCA's. I am not opposed to the SPC's but I have run TC UCA's for years and have always be very happy with them, I even have them on the GX at the moment.
 
I’m pretty much in the same boat as you in regards to making a suspension decision.
We just picked our 200 up about a month ago. Purchased it on a whim and couldn’t be happier. I’m really leaning towards a higher end company for suspension (king or radflo) but who knows. We are in coal country out here and rip at rather high speeds up access/fire roads for extended periods of time. I had icons on my 4Runner and was really disappointed by their versatility.

Regardless... Here is a photo to give you a reference point on what tires can do to these... I put 275/70/18 falkens on almost immediately I really prefer a skinnier/taller tire for a daily and these really fill out the wheel wells. I also removed the running boards and it really made the look a bit more aggressive. The OEM front spacer would remove most of not all the factory rake and maintain your stock ride comfort. If your not spending all/most of the time on the road I think these few changes would scratch that itch for ya.
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Do you need to release the KDSS valves when installing the OEM spacers?
 
You should. It is possible to do it without loosening them, but it is more difficult.
 
What were you guys charged for the install or did you do it yourself?
 
I have two spacers sitting at home. I’m debating on installing or just wait for a proper suspension commitment.

I was planning on doing it myself. But my local shop quoted me at 2 hours of labor. 65 an hour rate. I would assume 2-4 hours would be most quotes. I’m sure someone else has more experience with this...
 
I did the installs myself.
 
Thanks for the replies in regards to the UCA's. I am not opposed to the SPC's but I have run TC UCA's for years and have always be very happy with them, I even have them on the GX at the moment.
Avoid SPC. They’re far too frequently recommended on here and have a bad history of catastrophic failure.

Stick with TC!
 
I have two spacers sitting at home. I’m debating on installing or just wait for a proper suspension commitment.

I was planning on doing it myself. But my local shop quoted me at 2 hours of labor. 65 an hour rate. I would assume 2-4 hours would be most quotes. I’m sure someone else has more experience with this...
Toyota book rate is 3 hours.

You could probably do the install by just loosening the top nuts and compressing the front spring with a spring compressor in less time, assuming you have the tools
 
Toyota book rate is 3 hours.

You could probably do the install by just loosening the top nuts and compressing the front spring with a spring compressor in less time, assuming you have the tools
Having done the front suspension on a 200 several times, I don't think you'd be able to compress the springs enough to do this job. If someone is able to do it, it'd be great to see some pictures. It'd be a nice time saver for people doing the spacers. Also, my spring compressors wouldn't fit the front springs, but that may be a tool issue that could be resolved with a better spring compressor.
 
Does this just mean that you just need to completely remove the OEM strut to get the spacer in? I'm considering going this route short term as I've heard that the lead time on Kings is something like 4-6 months right now (this isn't direct knowledge, just what I've heard).

As long as you're not taking the spring off the strut body it would actually be safer and probably faster to just take the whole unit out, put the space on top, install the top and then the bottom, than try to mess with spring compressors while the strut is half on. I have spring compressors and frankly every time I use them I fear for my life, even though I have the beefiest, most secure ones that I can find short of the professional, "cage" style or whatever that is called and am meticulous about consistently compressing each side as I go. Of course the top of the strut would still be in place but the potential of trying to force a spacer in while not bumping or disturbing the compressors would still concern me. You could very easily have a finger in there, have a compressor pop off, and lose the finger when the spring explodes but up the top retainer.
 
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Does this just mean that you just need to completely remove the OEM strut to get the spacer in? I'm considering going this route short term as I've heard that the lead time on Kings is something like 4-6 months right now (this isn't direct knowledge, just what I've heard).

As long as you're not taking the spring off the strut body it would actually be safer and probably faster to just take the whole unit out, put the space on top, install the top and then the bottom, than try to mess with spring compressors while the strut is half on. I have spring compressors and frankly every time I use them I fear for my life, even though I have the beefiest, most secure ones that I can find short of the professional, "cage" style or whatever that is called and am meticulous about consistently compressing each side as I go. Of course the top of the strut would still be in place but the potential of trying to force a spacer in while not bumping or disturbing the compressors would still concern me. You could very easily have a finger in there, have a compressor pop on, and lose the finger when the spring explodes but up the top retainer.
If you can compress it, no. But if you can't, then yes.

The FSM has an SST listed for use compressing the spring if you want to change out your front shocks but retain the original spring. That is doing the procedure off the vehicle though, I'm not sure if you could do it while it's still installed.

To my knowledge most people commonly end up removing the strut assembly and reinstalling it. I have a spring compressor I used to use with my old '66 Mustang but I hate them as I can never get them perfectly aligned on most vehicles and if you don't you run the risk of the spring slipping the compressor and firing at you with dangerous forces.

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Thanks! Yeah, all of those types of spring compressors you have to be careful with. I personally wouldn't use that SST on the vehicle. There is a style that mounts on a wall or standing frame like a press that does a much better job of capturing the spring and compressing it evenly. Jack Tech SK3000 Strut and Spring Compressor | Redline Stands

I mean, I'll keep using what I've got, they are fine when used carefully. But I never thought of actually compressing on vehicle. For me I feel pretty confident that it's going to be a lot faster, easier and safer to just pull the whole strut, slap the spacer on, and reinstall. KDSS notwithstanding (dealt with KDSS on my GX and had the front end apart multiple times for spring weight and valving changes).
 
Which shop did the work?
Freeman Toyota in DFW. I was quoted a similar price by Goode's Offroad in Rowlett, and in hindsight, I wish I went to them. I did my wheel/tire install at a random tire shop, and then the spacer lift and alignment at the Toyota dealer within the same month.

The back and forth wasn't worth the money/time I thought I would be saving, and the quality of work would have been better (tire shop scuffed my wheels and messed up a TPMS sensor, and I feel the Toyota dealer alignment could've been a bit more meticulous rather than just checking if things were in the green) at pretty much the same price at Goode's. Doesn't hurt to reach out to multiple shops and see what is the best fit for you.
 
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I've been extremely happy with my bilstein setup, much nicer ride over stock. It didn't break the bank either, 1K for all the parts. Labor was free since I installed it. Just look at the tube size between the OEM front and the bilstein!
 
@NoClue what springs did you go with? And do you know how much lift you picked up? TIA
@NoClue yes this. It looks like you used perch 5 for the front, I'm curious if it gives the actual 2.6" lift referenced in the docs? It seems like other people had less, about 2.2" lift using perch 5. I'm trying to see how consistent people's numbers are so hopefully I can get it right the first time and not have to readjust. I'm aiming for 2" so I can maintain some forward rake, but a bit more than 2" lift is okay too. I'm thinking perch 4 is probably right for me.
 

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