Engine wire help

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So the PO said there was a small fire that happened on the engine block. For now I’m going to assume that this possible leaky valve cover gasket or PCV spewed oil and caught on fire.

Only places I see that is partially burned is the pcv hose and these wires. Can anyone help me decipher where these wires go? My HAYNES is useless right now. Thanks in advance
B172E0C6-8820-41AA-92A6-69D8297C8A43.jpeg
 

ToyotaMatt

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ok here we go .

- the front most burned wire is a Thermo- Temp. coolant sensor , sensor is roasted too .....fyi :confused:

- wire under rear large circle is your Choke Solenoid to carb wire .........its charred good too

- 3rd BIG red flag to me , is your accelerator pump plunger according boot is Toast too .......

direct path for fuel fumes and possible engine bay fire #2 .....

you have alot of MAKE IT SAFE prep , clean up and Repairs going on

just do it all correct and right at once first time best path forward ...
 
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Can anyone help?
ok here we go .

- the front most burned wire is a Thermo- Temp. coolant sensor , sensor is roasted too .....fyi :confused:

- wire under rear large circle is your Choke Solenoid to carb wire .........its charred good too

- 3rd BIG red flag to me , is your accelerator pump plunger according boot is Toast too .......

direct path for fuel fumes and possible engine bay fire #2 .....

you have alot of MAKE IT SAFE prep , clean up and Repairs going on

just do it all correct and right at once first time best path forward ...
*gulp* wiring definitely isn’t my forte. What’s my best path forward? Replace the sensors and splice new wires? What are ways I can get the rig running and prevent a future fire
 

Dizzy

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Those wires should be an easy fix. New carb solenoid or wire. Temp sensor(s) should be fine. Just do a little housekeeping while you search for potential cause. I'd ditch the rubber fuel lines for metal ones. Since this is a pre-'76?, you don't need the smog stuff? I'd consider the air rail a point of possible ignition. Also an exhaust leak as a point of ignition. Fuel as fuel, not so much oil, unless you are really leaking on the valve cover.
 
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Those wires should be an easy fix. New carb solenoid or wire. Temp sensor(s) should be fine. Just do a little housekeeping while you search for potential cause. I'd ditch the rubber fuel lines for metal ones. Since this is a pre-'76?, you don't need the smog stuff? I'd consider the air rail a point of possible ignition. Also an exhaust leak as a point of ignition. Fuel as fuel, not so much oil, unless you are really leaking on the valve cover.
thanks for the reply and advice. the vehicle is from May 1973, either F or F.5

Would I be able to source my own wire or do these older LC’s have specific Toyota fittings? I did find a carb solenoid online. I need to dig further in the car to find where the other end of these wires go.

the PO poured ethanol into the carb which in turn could have created the fire. When I was trying to get her started, I did notice fresh oil on the block and at the base of the carb so I can’t rule out the oil out yet until I change the. VCG.
I was able to get it running with carb cleaner, but died out. That’s when I noticed the small puddle/splatter of oil, and the Fuel-IN line to the carb was wet.

the 1973 is smog exempt in California - you mentioned the air rail. I’m assuming the length of rail running along the top of the motor. How do you test that for leaks? are they easily replaceable?
 
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Air rail isn't really easily replaceable, well it is but you'll have to find a good used one to replace it with

There's some connectors that are different but i've found some common ones that will work. Just remove the wire from the temp sensor and see what it looks like. Cut away all the burnt and replace the wire.
 

ToyotaMatt

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Can anyone help?


*gulp* wiring definitely isn’t my forte. What’s my best path forward? Replace the sensors and splice new wires? What are ways I can get the rig running and prevent a future fire

Help regarding your 2 TEMP. Coolant Sending units Wires / thermo. sensor and Correct OEM TOYOTA Positive grip special locking DETENT ball Terminals both the Charred one directly between the Carb and valve cover and the one far behind it near the Cooling system hose bib fitting or UNION Tower / Joint with correct oem color code thick 16 gauge wire YELLOW w/ Green Tracer stripes &
OEM TOYOTA parts maker YAZAKI Connector ........................Period Correct Black in Color and UV rated of course :cool:

is here : please click link below for a technical design review , this kit will meet your needs from more then one point of view :



Now, Regarding the BAD fire under your hood : :confused:

- I have concluded in my opinion after some very careful pin point Super-Zoom APP study i have on my desk top , that your fire
and its subsequent spread in a very localized and specific area , based mostly on the Charred Black soot marks and stains both
inside your Air Horn , down into your Venturies the selves , also the isolated heavy burn marks from live flames inside the air horn direct connection portion of your air box , or the small approx. 4" circle connection point for short ........

your Carburetor itself and only it were and are most likely the direct cause of the fire .....


it would be way too complex to try to narrow the exact location and start point and why of the fire , but its looks original , and may or may not have never of been re-built before or was at one point incorrectly like some air horn Phillips head screws left loos allowing PETROL fumes to escape in enough of a way they ignited from the super heated exhaust manifold or a random and unknown ignition source such as your dizzy cap or a bad arc-ing plug wire ?

again the exact cause requires mush more further study and diagnosis to prevent any further unfortunate stuff happen like you show above in your very WELL documented and shared photos you posted ...


My Suggested and ONLY path forward starts with Contacting Mark's OFF Road Enterprises , in Burbank California / @65swb45

Mark Specializes and speaks Old Skool F and F1.5 , specifically a 2nd generation 2bbl 1973 F1.5 carb. like you have going on here


the biggest reason i highly recommend Mark to help meet your needed repairs here , as i see them to be :

- he will have individual spare and needed parts on hand and in-stock both quality pre-owned and NOS in many cases

like you Fuel Cut SOLENOID , that is TOYOTA OEM , NLA / Disc. , Mark WILL have Quality pre-owned or NOS options for you here
just giving one specific example here to be clear , you will have to communicate with Mark for further Specifics and details of course

lastly , and maybe very important to or Not ?

Mark usually has Faster then Other repair options and turn around time , as i have observed din the past

He has a Real Brick and Mortar Store front in Burbank , and has been serving the Land Cruiser Community and Turning TEq gears now For over 30+ Years .........

i just turned 46 , and was on my parents Pea Green Rotary Corded kitchen wall mounted land line at age 16 ordering good quality
parts at age 16 for my one owner 12/78 fj40 from Mark as a teenager whom was still learning and exploring daily the entire 40
series land cruiser topic as a whole , Mark took special time with me growing up and was NEVER too busy to offer me
his technical advise as it directly related to the many dozens and indeed Hundreds of parts sourced from Marks Off Road Enterprises ....


so perhaps this small and personal FAQ above , is why i feel strongly he is your best option to meet all your Carb, needs ... :)


i make the above points in detail because , where and who repairs your carb and the source of your engine bay fire is you most
important decision and step #1 path forward in my opinion ....



lastly Mark is a SUPPORTING VENDOR as well here on MUD and has been for many many years ,,,,,,,,,,,,

good luck with your repairs


matt
 
Last edited:
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Messages
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Help regarding your 2 TEMP. Coolant Sending units Wires / thermo. sensor and Correct OEM TOYOTA Positive grip special locking DETENT ball Terminals both the Charred one directly between the Carb and valve cover and the one far behind it near the Cooling system hose bib fitting or UNION Tower / Joint with correct oem color code thick 16 gauge wire YELLOW w/ Green Tracer stripes &
OEM TOYOTA parts maker YAZAKI Connector ........................Period Correct Black in Color and UV rated of course :cool:

is here : please click link below for a technical design review , this kit will meet your needs from more then one point of view :



Now, Regarding the BAD fire under your hood : :confused:

- I have concluded in my opinion after some very careful pin point Super-Zoom APP study i have on my desk top , that your fire
and its subsequent spread in a very localized and specific area , based mostly on the Charred Black soot marks and stains both
inside your Air Horn , down into your Venturies the selves , also the isolated heavy burn marks from live flames inside the air horn direct connection portion of your air box , or the small approx. 4" circle connection point for short ........

your Carburetor itself and only it were and are most likely the direct cause of the fire .....


it would be way too complex to try to narrow the exact location and start point and why of the fire , but its looks original , and may or may not have never of been re-built before or was at one point incorrectly like some air horn Phillips head screws left loos allowing PETROL fumes to escape in enough of a way they ignited from the super heated exhaust manifold or a random and unknown ignition source such as your dizzy cap or a bad arc-ing plug wire ?

again the exact cause requires mush more further study and diagnosis to prevent any further unfortunate stuff happen like you show above in your very WELL documented and shared photos you posted ...


My Suggested and ONLY path forward starts with Contacting Mark's OFF Road Enterprises , in Burbank California / @65swb45

Mark Specializes and speaks Old Skool F and F1.5 , specifically a 2nd generation 2bbl 1973 F1.5 carb. like you have going on here


the biggest reason i highly recommend Mark to help meet your needed repairs here , as i see them to be :

- he will have individual spare and needed parts on hand and in-stock both quality pre-owned and NOS in many cases

like you Fuel Cut SOLENOID , that is TOYOTA OEM , NLA / Disc. , Mark WILL have Quality pre-owned or NOS options for you here
just giving one specific example here to be clear , you will have to communicate with Mark for further Specifics and details of course

lastly , and maybe very important to or Not ?

Mark usually has Faster then Other repair options and turn around time , as i have observed din the past

He has a Real Brick and Mortar Store front in Burbank , and has been serving the Land Cruiser Community and Turning TEq gears For over 30+ Years .........

im just turned 46 , and was on my parents Pea Green Rotary Corded kitchen wall mounted land line at age 16 ordering good quality
parts at age 16 for my one owner 12/78 fj40


i make the above points in detail because , where and who repairs your carb and the source of your engine bay fire is you most
important decision and step #1 path forward in my opinion ....



lastly Mark is a SUPPORTING VENDOR as well here on MUD and has been for many many years ,,,,,,,,,,,,

good luck with your repairs


matt
Matt thank you for your thorough reply! I did contact him yesterday and he is willing to take on the project rebuild for me. I also opted going for the Weber 32/36 carb. In your opinion, what would be most cost effective? I have never had a carb rebuilt before so I wouldnt have an idea.
Another reason why I’ve considered the Weber is due to the crack on top of the carb. Mark sounds very straightforward and helpful - I’m leaning towards sending to him so long as it doesn’t cost me more than an aftermarket.
I included a few more pictures from when I took off the carb this morning.

there definitely is an oil leak which might be secondary to a faulty valve cover gasket.
8E707FAC-ACF7-4E5A-8164-BC2287B33A75.jpeg
A5C1627F-AA5E-4550-9049-844452F71F1D.jpeg
 

ToyotaMatt

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JUDAS PRIEST
982D279A-C80D-4F30-8AF5-E05BAFF9F212.jpeg



i have never seen that issue before ?

the cracked air horn im referring to .........fyi


the fluid leaking from you melted pump plunger is 100% PETROL .............
⛽
 
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You got me, Matt. Here are a few more photos

Shiny area is
C743FCE8-4F11-4772-84C3-716C36E1691C.jpeg
0EB59B41-F869-4F96-93F6-50798B371268.jpeg
3D86C800-7F28-4919-B35C-6789A610F820.jpeg
9DDEAE95-4778-4355-8964-E18FE58ED940.jpeg
C676D24B-7CAB-4D46-8F1D-6D4CB11E4F64.jpeg

JUDAS PRIEST View attachment 2358630


i have never seen that issue before ?

the cracked air horn im referring to .........fyi


the fluid leaking from you melted pump plunger is 100% PETROL .............
⛽
charred!
here are more photos: (BY THE WAY... ADMINS, DO YOU PREFER I UP PHOTOS WITH LOWER RES?)

Shiny area is where the fresh oil was sitting after clean up. spattered on side of carb as well
C743FCE8-4F11-4772-84C3-716C36E1691C.jpeg
What we have here are beautifully charred wires...
0EB59B41-F869-4F96-93F6-50798B371268.jpeg


And here we have a singed sensor
3D86C800-7F28-4919-B35C-6789A610F820.jpeg
Heres another view of the top of cracked carb
9DDEAE95-4778-4355-8964-E18FE58ED940.jpeg
 

ToyotaMatt

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need photos of the back of the top of cylinder at and near and behind the HOSE Bib tower fitting
 

ToyotaMatt

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Cracks of any kind are BAD ............Period !

anywhere anytime in and on anything Land Cruiser...:(


replace ALL cracked parts 100%



why ? :

one primary design feature of a land cruiser Carburetor AIR HORN , and top of bolted on metal air box housing top of carb. is : Spark- Arrestor (spelling ) :rolleyes:
 

ToyotaMatt

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yellow wire in the rear of your photos , has a red pep-boys plastic butt connector going to a red wire near fire wall
and metal L shaped water pipe ...


dig ?
 

ToyotaMatt

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i don't know all the 411 on a F1.5 with 2 Temp senders like you have ?

Mark / @65swb45 will be the final word here to be clear

I have ONLY seen this on a 2F before and many many times to be clear .......



this is why i suggested in our PM a possible 2F Cylinder Head conversion and or upgrade / update

if anyone has the TEq FAQ here please chime in .....!

@thebigredrocker
@Spike Strip
@OSS
@Living in the Past


one of these experts in my opinion on this particular topic may shed some light :)
 
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i don't know all the 411 on a F1.5 with 2 Temp senders like you have ?

Mark / @65swb45 will be the final word her to be cleat

I have ONLY seen this on a 2F before and many many times to be clear .......



this is why i suggested in our PM a possible 2F Cylinder Head conversion and or upgrade / update
This was possibly rebuilt? PO mentioned a rebuild but I assumed just a typical engine rebuild, not to a 2F
 

ToyotaMatt

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This was possibly rebuilt? PO mentioned a rebuild but I assumed just a typical engine rebuild, not to a 2F

again , a 2nd and 3rd opinion is needed here , for sure

i don't specialize in all the F1.5 possible variations produced , especially on a possible California Emissions SPEC. F1.5 Destination Market land cruiser in 1973 ?

complex TEQ ......:rolleyes:
 
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