Engine wire help (1 Viewer)

[Dizzy]

That zip tie to the choke cable looks silly tight. There is a clip on the 2F valve cover for wires.

I wouldn't mess with the Weber without confirming the performance with an exhaust O2 sensor and readout gauge. I'd go with the 38/38, not its synchronous 32/36 sibling. I wouldn't even full rebuild, just fix the plunger and its burnt boot, and solenoid.

 

[avillan610]

That zip tie to the choke cable looks silly tight. There is a clip on the 2F valve cover for wires.

That zip tie to the choke cable looks silly tight. There is a clip on the 2F valve cover for wires.

Does it look like this?

 

[ToyotaMatt]

If anyone want's to know a bit of solid TEq TECH. on why NOT to install and modify your nice stock period correct Land Cruiser

with a invasive and most of the time Shorter then expected life expectancy before drive-ability issues directly related to the Webber

Topic as a whole ..........


well those who DO know don't need to hear any more ......

i have more then a Few De-Jerry Rig of Webber Carbs set ups / Put back to period correct stock client shop jobs under my belt and nothing to say more except simply DON'T ....

1976 fj40 Weber carb question

Ok, sorry if this is too much info but I hope I can explain it well enough that someone can point me in the right direction. I have a 1976 fj 40 with the supposedly "original" 2f and 4 speed. I haven't done anything to the engine since I've bought it except a new upper thermostat gasket. The...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Does it look like this?
View attachment 2358875

I am almost certain that folding clip clamp is where the :

- choke Solonoid
- and both temp sensors wires are routed with a flame proof wire loom to protect them from manifold heat temps etc ...

Choke wire may also ride along with the choke and or hand throttle cables too I have seen

so not % sure in solenoid wire ?

 

[Dizzy]

I'm warm to the idea of a Weber, the accelerator pump gets the gas down the throttle barrel at the throttle plate, instead of wetting the walls of the primary. It can be tuned to a specific altitude. A new choke breaker diaphragm can be had. For the early 2F, it doesn't have an EGR inlet tube to get filled with gas. It is an easy ported vacuum option, for your year. Auto-choke options, for the carb-unfamiliar driver. The bowl is very easy to inspect, or swap jets, as there is only one linkage for the choke butterfly.

However, I'm running the original carb, because it was just too convenient to get it to be a properly running factory-engineered 2F, and, that didn't require much troubleshooting. Plus, it looks cool, and has that wow factor, that, I'm running something that drank rain and mouse pee, and that is time-tested originality, and could easily go for another 45-years.

Get a JIS screwdriver to swap the accelerator plunger and boot, a rebuild kit, and you are good to go, or you can do a deeper cleaning, if warranted.

 

[avillan610]

the “need assistance” bump. Can anyone help identify if my engine was upated to a 2F conversion? And can anyone help
Identify these two sensors in the back of the head?

 

[Dizzy]

There is a block serial number on the passenger side, kinda by the starter. Clean off the soil and it will say F or 2F. There is a "2F" engraving on the front, top, driver corner of my heads, almost buried under the valve cover gasket. Also, there are numbers on the top of the head, near the air rail holes; I don't know their code.

Both the F.5 and '75 emissions had a sensor for the computer. My 2F has a sensor for the combination meter on the dash, and emissions.

 

[avillan610]

Both the F.5 and '75 emissions had a sensor for the computer. My 2F has a sensor for the combination meter on the dash, and emissions.

On your block do you know which sensor pertained to what?

 

[Dizzy]

Not for sure, but the forum informed me that the one closest to the firewall is for the dash, and that is the one hooked up on my cluster, and it reads mostly at the first marking for temp on a warm motor. February '75.

 

[avillan610]

It’s still an F motor. Per SORs chart looks like april-ish 1973 (the F was not revised to the F.5 until September 1973).