Anyone got any suggestions how or what will remove the glue/adhesive from the back landcruiser badge??!! I have tried several adhesive removers but it will not come off. Even tried a heat gun.
Emblem residue removal help
- Thread starter landonridge
- Start date
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What mudgudgeon said. Adhesive removal wheel, eraser wheel, pinstripe and decal eraser, etc.
You can find them at any local automotive paint supply store, and probably at some auto parts places like O'Reilly's. It will be way cheaper at the paint supply shop, though.
You can find them at any local automotive paint supply store, and probably at some auto parts places like O'Reilly's. It will be way cheaper at the paint supply shop, though.
The local dealer body shop uses a 3M spray that's safe for paint, but removes absolutely everything else. They use it when they're doing touch up work. They swear by it.
3M General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner
3M General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner
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Have you tried wd40?
Turpentine works and don't hurt the paint...remove duct tape sticky crap with ease .
I think the wheel is the best but I also use mineral spirits
Anyone ever use Goo Gone for this?
Bumping this up for help with very, very VERY dry and hard emblem adhesive.
Previous owner (I guess?) ripped off the "Lexus" and the chrome trim above the license plate. This must have been done some time ago as the adhesive is now hard as a rock. I've read through many threads on the subject but I think most are going after fresher/softer adhesive. Tips for getting hardened stuff off? I've soaked it in Goo-Gone and I have the decal eraser wheel but it it is getting shredded while barely scratching the glue. Any sense hitting it with a heat gun first? Other ideas? Thanks
Previous owner (I guess?) ripped off the "Lexus" and the chrome trim above the license plate. This must have been done some time ago as the adhesive is now hard as a rock. I've read through many threads on the subject but I think most are going after fresher/softer adhesive. Tips for getting hardened stuff off? I've soaked it in Goo-Gone and I have the decal eraser wheel but it it is getting shredded while barely scratching the glue. Any sense hitting it with a heat gun first? Other ideas? Thanks
Following as I am about to pull off a 33 year old emblem back there and know it will be a mess.
@Gartenmeister I'm not sure what wheel you are using but the Astro 500E will definitely get that off in short order. I'd guess maybe 10 minutes with the wheel in a drill followed by a bit of denatured alcohol to get trace residue and it should be gone if you are comfortable running one of these.
If your wheel is shredding I'd assume something is wrong with it or it's the wrong type. I've used the astro wheels for a lot of material removal projects and it will cut through paint, hardened adhesives, etc. It's similar in function to a high output heat gun and a metal scraper but doesn't do damage unless you run it to fast and hard in one spot for too long.
To get going run the wheel at moderate speed and pressure on one edge / spot until things start to heat up a bit (should only take 4 or 5 seconds, maybe less) then start easing into the hardened adhesive a little at a time. You will be melting and slinging the old adhesive off as you proceed. Keep the wheel moving so you don't overheat the paint beneath the adhesive and move in a steady direction from one end of the strip to the other til it's all gone. I typically run the rotation of the removal wheel so that it's pushing me back, away from what I'm removing, which keeps me from running into the adhesive/etc. too fast.
As your technique develops you'll find the right speed to spin the wheel, the right amount of pressure to apply and how fast you can remove the residue. You can cook and peel the factory paint so be careful of that. Typically the wheel will start to smoke a bit before you get to the point of damaging the paint but not always. If you run the wheel on painted plastic the paint will come off very quickly as there isn't metal to conduct the heat away, etc. so be very careful of using the wheel on painted plastic like the door handles, bumper end caps, etc.
Good luck
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If your wheel is shredding I'd assume something is wrong with it or it's the wrong type. I've used the astro wheels for a lot of material removal projects and it will cut through paint, hardened adhesives, etc. It's similar in function to a high output heat gun and a metal scraper but doesn't do damage unless you run it to fast and hard in one spot for too long.
To get going run the wheel at moderate speed and pressure on one edge / spot until things start to heat up a bit (should only take 4 or 5 seconds, maybe less) then start easing into the hardened adhesive a little at a time. You will be melting and slinging the old adhesive off as you proceed. Keep the wheel moving so you don't overheat the paint beneath the adhesive and move in a steady direction from one end of the strip to the other til it's all gone. I typically run the rotation of the removal wheel so that it's pushing me back, away from what I'm removing, which keeps me from running into the adhesive/etc. too fast.
As your technique develops you'll find the right speed to spin the wheel, the right amount of pressure to apply and how fast you can remove the residue. You can cook and peel the factory paint so be careful of that. Typically the wheel will start to smoke a bit before you get to the point of damaging the paint but not always. If you run the wheel on painted plastic the paint will come off very quickly as there isn't metal to conduct the heat away, etc. so be very careful of using the wheel on painted plastic like the door handles, bumper end caps, etc.
Good luck
@jpoole thanks for the tips. I was using one of the cheap eraser wheels from Amazon that looks like a cog. I did eventually get it to remove most of the glue although it took awhile. Hopefully my cordless drill survives the experience. I also periodically soaked with the 3M Adhesive Remover which I think might have helped more than the Goo-Gone. I ran out of time for the evening but should be able to finish up tomorrow. Thanks again
I have the same problem, it harder than a rock from the AZ sun. Any chance you can post a pic when you're finished?
this works great, much better than the solid eraser wheels for me. I removed some very old glue residue on an 86 fj60 with one of these. I first warmed the residue up well with mild to medium heat with the heat gun, then use this eraser on a drill moving back and forth so you're not in the same spot for too long - though it never damaged any paint, that made me feel better about it, lol. It came off fairly easily with this method.
I used a heat gun and plastic scraper to get most of the old adhesive off mine. I was putting a new emblem back on, so I didn't worry about getting 100% of it off and just put the new one on top of the remaining residue. Unless you're repainting or leaving it w/o an emblem, you might consider how critical it is to you to get all of the old stuff off.
Did mine today. Original on a 1992. Had to take emblem off in chunks, but then sprayed with the 3M adhesive remover I picked up at advanced auto - let it sit a coupe of minutes and it scraped off fairly easily. Then a couple rub downs with alcohol and put the new one on. Not perfect but a huge improvement.
Sorry it's been a couple weeks but here's some pics as requested.
It is way better than it was when I got it. Ultimately the eraser wheel got most of the hardened stuff off but it's not perfect. I think the "Lexus" is etched into the clear coat but can only be seen if you're looking for it. Perimeter of the old trim strip or whatever you call it is fairly obvious, there are also some marks, a paint chip and a couple of holes. What you guys think of my proposed solution?
@Outsane could probably make you a Lexus badge if you wanted.
Landcruiser Tailgate badge
Landcruiser Tailgate badge This is the highly requested rear tailgate badge for a FJ80 or FZJ80 or LX450 Custom wording is available! A Track Called Quest. did a great install video! Eat your veggies
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