Gotcha. I had assumed this was integral to the assembly. Thanks for the clarification.
Elocker in a 2003+ (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter WiscoProud
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Gotcha. I had assumed this was integral to the assembly. Thanks for the clarification.
Hey WiscoProud, I have been thinking about this same thing for my '00 a lot lately. There's a complete '99 e-locker equipped axle nearby and I have been so tempted to buy it but have other priorities right now. Otherwise I'd say drive up to Appleton and we'll e-lock both of our trucks one weekend.
The first thing to do though, is buy a gasket for an e-locked third member, drop my factory third, and then place the new gasket on the axle to see how much grinding off the factory axle needs to be done to fit the e-locker third in.
And I think you should find a 4.30 e-locked rear and a 4 pinion 4.30 front from a 2002 or similar and throw both in. 4.30's with your 5 speed and bigger tires would be the perfect setup IMO.
Frank
fireball
SILVER Star
Check out the harrop e locker. Pretty sure they have one that works in the rear. I wanted to get one for my front axle a few years back but they weren't available stateside. I just got a bj74 and had a harrop put in the back and am very happy with it. No air lines or compresor to install, the wiring is simple no external actuator like the oem e lockers and instant on/off.
Perhaps @can-am cruisers can confirm availability?
Perhaps @can-am cruisers can confirm availability?
Ben -
Yes, Harrop ELocker is available in North America for front or rear of any full float Land Cruiser (40-60-70-80-100-200), Tacoma/Hilux, 4Runner/Surf and FJ Cruiser. See our Vendor thread and the Terrain Tamer website as below. Videos, install / operating instructions, etc. My partner, Georg Esterer, has one on his desk and will do an install in his 100 Series.
Definitely not a $400 solution, but we offer an internally actuated, 4-pinion electric e-locker option new in box with all required bits - even a new OEM 2-locker switch as a thank-you.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/harrop-elocker-general-info-installation-thread.849313/
http://www.terraintamer.com/en/4wd-products/elocker
Last edited:
Muddy Bean
Breaking something or fixing something
Having grenaded my two pinion front diff, I can say, definitely don't swap out your front diff. Do the rear to match as you said. Honestly, I have an ARB air locker up front, and electric on the rear diff and I absolutely love the ARB. Hands down its faster and so far has worked flawlessly for me. The compressor is an added bonus as I use it to fill my tires if I've aired down for terrain. Consider TJM. Cheaper and maybe more conducive to your price point. Just a thought. But I guess this thread isn't about convincing you to go with an air locker, so I'll say this, try to go with OEM switches and make your install look at stock and pro as possible and someday when you sell, you'll find some interested people who are looking for a newer model with a locker in the rear. Does this affect how ATRAC behaves?
ATRAC views a locked axel as an axel with traction so it's completely transparent and unaffected. VSC would be affected, but you're locked and going slow so VSC is probably irrelevant.
FWIW, the advice I got on the compressor was to go with the small ARB and have it dedicated to locker duty only. Reason? When you need lockers you really need lockers and you don't want to have an overworked tire pump burn out and not be there for you. Also if a guy three trucks back needs air you can take your portable tire compressor to him. YMMV
FWIW, the advice I got on the compressor was to go with the small ARB and have it dedicated to locker duty only. Reason? When you need lockers you really need lockers and you don't want to have an overworked tire pump burn out and not be there for you. Also if a guy three trucks back needs air you can take your portable tire compressor to him. YMMV
- Thread starter
- #27
I think your gasket idea is great. Having some help on it would be appreciated as well. I don't have the time to do it right now, due to several other home projects, but I like to do as much homework as possible. Lets keep in touch.
I actually did look up the Harrop lockers and requested a quote. Unfortunately they're out of my price range at the moment. Great product though.
- Thread starter
- #28
I looked at TJM, but the prices I saw were only $100 cheaper than the ARB. Had they been a couple hundred cheaper, maybe. My plan was to make it as "stock" as possible. Oddly, the 2004 FSM I have shows the wiring and everything for a locking diff, which is a big help.
I was just wondering about this as well. I saw someone mentioned the foreign diff lock versions, did not include ATRAC, so it wasn't sure if they would work well together, but your explanation makes perfect sense.
Lokka makes a lunchbox lockers for the late model LC - TOY-RL-614.
- Thread starter
- #30
That would be the most cost effective option, but its not ideal for a DD that sees a fair amount of snow and ice.
I have debated just doing an Auburn Pro LSD. it obviously wouldn't give me the same performance as a locker, but it would be a big improvement and the cost is under $500
No matter what you go with all the above requires gears to be set. When it comes to resetting used gears you are at the mercy of the current set up, any deviation can result in noise.
- Thread starter
- #32
So I was able to find pictures of the gaskets online. It would appear that to use the 2004 housing, some grinding would need to be done. However, it seems to be less than what is called for on the 80 series. The only obvious difference is the added rounded bump out. It does not look like any additional bolt holes would need to be drilled either.
- Thread starter
- #33
Would it be better to just get a new set of gears, rather than reuse the existing? I wish I had the tools or skill to set up gears, but reading how-tos online is not the same as experience.
So I was able to find pictures of the gaskets online. It would appear that to use the 2004 housing, some grinding would need to be done. However, it seems to be less than what is called for on the 80 series. The only obvious difference is the added rounded bump out. It does not look like any additional bolt holes would need to be drilled either.
IIRC one axle side will need to be changed also.
For me the best late model set up would be a complete 4:30 elocker axle in the rear and change the front gears to 4:30 along with an ARB while you are in there.
That's exactly what I'd do, I don't understand why you'd stay at 4.11 when you have the chance to go to better gears for the 33's you should probably have anyway...
- Thread starter
- #37
Agreed. But unfortunately that's out of my budget, and more criminally, likely wouldn't get used to its potential.
I knew about the one axle shaft too. The debate is still whether its easier to modify the 2004 housing, or use a 98-99 and switch over the bracketry from the 2004.
- Thread starter
- #38
I do have 275/70s already. Changing to 4.30 gears would be nice, but its an added expense. Would the 4.30 be much a change to drivability on or off-road? I would imagine it would further decrease my gas mileage (only a factor since this is my DD).
I've never personally driven a 5 speed, so I can't speak to the drivability of your rig. On mine however, I would definitely like to go from my 4.30's to 4.88's. That would put my rpms back closer to where they were with stock tires, and if anything I would think it would help mpg, but I'm not really concerned with that. I definitely hear you on the added expense. Ask my why I still have a weak 2 pinion front and stock gearing...
I've never personally driven a 5 speed, so I can't speak to the drivability of your rig. On mine however, I would definitely like to go from my 4.30's to 4.88's. That would put my rpms back closer to where they were with stock tires, and if anything I would think it would help mpg, but I'm not really concerned with that. I definitely hear you on the added expense. Ask my why I still have a weak 2 pinion front and stock gearing...
5sp gets by a lot easier without gears than a 4sp due to the 3.52 first gear verses the 2.90 with a 4spd.
