Elocker in a 2003+ (2 Viewers)

[WiscoProud]

I have done a thousand searches and read every post. I realize most people recommend not to do it, and go with ARB. However, seeing as an ARB with compressor is at least $1,000, and I can buy a whole axle with the diff lock off of car-part.com for as low as $400, the issues would need to be major.

From what I've read there are two ways to do this. 1. modify your existing axle housing to fit the elocker third member, and 2) swap in an axle from a 98-99.

For the first option, it appears most information I could find routes back to how its done on the 80s, where a chunk of the housing will need to be removed and two holes drilled and tapped. However, this is for an 80 series, and I read that the 100 series needs less modification. Can anyone verify this?

For the full axle swap, it appears the only difference is there are two brake lines instead of one. So brackets would need to be made for lines.

For everyone saying to go with ARB, I would prefer to go with a factory system and eliminate the extras needed with air lockers. I do not rock crawl, nor do I need instant lockup. I had an elocker on a 3rd gen 4runner and an Xterra, and had no issues with them.

Does anyone have any real world experience on doing this mod? It sounds like its done a lot more frequently on other Toyota 4x4s.

Thanks in advance.

 

[OregonLC]

You would need to re-gear (or replace) your front to get it to work. 98-02 are 4.30 and 03+ are 4.11.

 

[WiscoProud]

Since its a daily driver, and I would already have the rear apart, I think I would reduce the rear axle to 4.10 to match the front.

 

[BamaHeel]

IIRC there is a difference in the number of splines in the 98-02 and 03+ as well.

 

[WiscoProud]

I thought there was a difference between the 80s (30 spline) and the 100s (32 spline). It looks like the same ARB unit is used for all years of the 100 series, if that makes any difference.

 

[WiscoProud]

To throw some more fuel on the fire, this appears to be a locking diff assembly for the 2003-2007.

http://www.toyotapartsoverstock.com...L--REAR-FGR=4110=4100/3939789/4111060A20.html

Here is the third member with the locking diff. The rear housing part numbers appear to be the same between the locking and non-locking version.

http://www.toyotapartsoverstock.com...Y--DIFFERENTIAL--REAR/3914970/4110160190.html

Not only that, it seems to be 4.10 gearing as well. While buying new would certainly negate any savings, it is another option.

 

[WiscoProud]

No interest from the board?

 

[spressomon]

In my mind the mechanical conversion would be the easier portion of the job. What's your plan to integrate the electrical side?

I imagine you've long tired of comments like this one...but from where I've sat the past decade with my rear e-locker: Give me a new ARB air locker in the back. Easier, faster and arguably simpler conversion. This might explain why you're a party of one relative to your goal.

 

[hoser]

ARB current promo... buy locker and receive free compressor.

I don't foresee any problems with the axle swap. AFAIK, the overseas 03-07 100's that DID come with a rear locker, did not have VSC/ATRAC. I can tell you the rear brake pistons are the same between the axles as well as the ABS speed sensors (for VSC/ATRAC). The difference, 1 vs 2 brake lines, you already know about.

Actuating the rear locker should not be a problem as there are work arounds out there. Whether your 100 already has the OE locker wiring, I don't know. But it seems easier to just wire it up "non-OE" style.

 

[bjowett]

Comparing the ARB to the 41110-60A20 is not fair to the ARB, IMO. The elocker is a completely a new differential… housing, bearings, gears, actuator, etc. The latest 1.28" 32 spline pinion gear is also installed in it. I like ARBs for weekend or trail rigs, but for a daily, they have their downfalls. I am installing a 41110-60A30 (4.30) in my wife's 200.

 

[OregonLC]

I like ARBs for weekend or trail rigs, but for a daily, they have their downfalls.

Such as?

 

[WiscoProud]

In my mind the mechanical conversion would be the easier portion of the job. What's your plan to integrate the electrical side?

I imagine you've long tired of comments like this one...but from where I've sat the past decade with my rear e-locker: Give me a new ARB air locker in the back. Easier, faster and arguably simpler conversion. This might explain why you're a party of one relative to your goal.

From what I've read, the electrical side is pretty easy. Even Slee has an aftermarket module on their website to control an e-locker.

 

[WiscoProud]

ARB current promo... buy locker and receive free compressor.

I don't foresee any problems with the axle swap. AFAIK, the overseas 03-07 100's that DID come with a rear locker, did not have VSC/ATRAC. I can tell you the rear brake pistons are the same between the axles as well as the ABS speed sensors (for VSC/ATRAC). The difference, 1 vs 2 brake lines, you already know about.

Actuating the rear locker should not be a problem as there are work arounds out there. Whether your 100 already has the OE locker wiring, I don't know. But it seems easier to just wire it up "non-OE" style.

The main question is what would be needed fit a locker third member into the housing. Slee has a nice diagram of what is needed on an 80, but not the 100. Basically it boils down to which option in the first post is more time/cost effective. I was thinking that non-OE wiring would be the way to go as well.

I don't have anything against ARB, but from what I've read the cost for parts and labor will approach $2,000, and I'll have extra complexity with wiring in the compressor and air lines. For the kinds of trails I do, and having an infant at home, cost effective options are the name of the game.

 

[OregonLC]

Your absolute lowest cost would be to do as you say and swap the rear axle from an 98-99 with e-locker. Do the same with the front diff assembly and it would be a reasonably cheap and easy DIY. The electrical should be no more than a switch and a relay. Your ratio would change slightly (4.11 to 4.30) but this isn't a huge change and 1st gear is already pretty low in the 03+. So unless you're towing, heavy, or running 35s I wouldn't worry too much about it if price is the primary concern. If your $400 figure is correct I would think you could get the job done for under $1k. Doing this will, however, move you back to a 2-pinion front diff.

In your OP, you said that you don't rock crawl. I guess the only other advice I might give is to validate the need for a locker at all. An 03+ with good tires and ATRAC will take you 99% of the places a locker will. I probably wouldn't have locked mine if I didn't need to re-gear (35s, A343F). It was a "while you're in there" thing, albeit an expensive one.

FWIW, I was just north of $4k to do ARB+Nitro. I had an awesome local guy do the gears (one of the few things I won't do myself) and it was about $400 per end for labor with me running the air.

 

[WiscoProud]

Your absolute lowest cost would be to do as you say and swap the rear axle from an 98-99 with e-locker. Do the same with the front diff assembly and it would be a reasonably cheap and easy DIY. The electrical should be no more than a switch and a relay. Your ratio would change slightly (4.11 to 4.30) but this isn't a huge change and 1st gear is already pretty low in the 03+. So unless you're towing, heavy, or running 35s I wouldn't worry too much about it if price is the primary concern. If your $400 figure is correct I would think you could get the job done for under $1k. Doing this will, however, move you back to a 2-pinion front diff.

In your OP, you said that you don't rock crawl. I guess the only other advice I might give is to validate the need for a locker at all. An 03+ with good tires and ATRAC will take you 99% of the places a locker will. I probably wouldn't have locked mine if I didn't need to re-gear (35s, A343F). It was a "while you're in there" thing, albeit an expensive one.

FWIW, I was just north of $4k to do ARB+Nitro. I had an awesome local guy do the gears (one of the few things I won't do myself) and it was about $400 per end for labor with me running the air.

At this point I'm only interested in a locker in the rear. Since the OEM locker would have a 4.30, It would seem the easiest would be to change it to 4.10 to match the front. That way I wouldn't need to open the front at all. My desire to have the rear locked is based on peace of mind. Just this last weekend I came close to getting stuck due to heavier than expected mud. Thankfully the ATRAC and judicious throttle got me through.

For the housing fitment question, does anyone have photos of the axle housing without the third member? If we can compare a 98-99 to a '03+, we should be able to tell if it would fit, or if grinding is needed like on the 80 series.

 

[bjowett]

The x-rings tend to randomly wear and fail in the seal housings…. which leads to things as minor as compressors that frequently cycle to gear oil odors…. and then on up to lockers that won't engage. When that point arrives, it's just about a full 3rd member break down to repair it. When I use to sell many of them, I kept x ring seals and seal housings on hand to send to customers.

 

[sleeoffroad]

The electrical should be no more than a switch and a relay.

It is more than that.

 

[OregonLC]

It is more than that.

Care to elaborate?

 

[sleeoffroad]

The motors use limit switches and normally the locker ECU takes care of the pulsing of the actuators to engage and dis-engage the locker. You can not just send power to actuator. It will lock up and possibly burn out.

 

[Hayes]

At this point I'm only interested in a locker in the rear. Since the OEM locker would have a 4.30, It would seem the easiest would be to change it to 4.10 to match the front. That way I wouldn't need to open the front at all. My desire to have the rear locked is based on peace of mind. Just this last weekend I came close to getting stuck due to heavier than expected mud. Thankfully the ATRAC and judicious throttle got me through.

A gear swap adds labor, time, and money, which erodes some of your savings over the ARB route. At least $200 for the gears, probably $200 - $300 for the labor.

I understand the desire for a rear locker, even if you're not "rock crawling." ATRAC does work well, but sometimes you can't afford to lose momentum or spin tires.