Electronic choke not working

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Mar 15, 2009
its just not working. Hard to start cold .. requires carb cleaner every time. The flaps aren't flipping on the carb or anything. The heat sensor and choke are hooked up. I got two wires coming out of the firewall and ones going to the sensor and other is going to the choke and then a few wires from the choke to the distributor... No rust so there isn't a contact problem...

Now I bought this thing from a numb nuts who had all the vacuum lines hooked up wrong so I wouldn't put it past him to have this hooked up wrong either.

Anybody got a wiring diagram or something.. I can't seem to find anything. its a Weber 2 barrel on a 72 fj40
wire going to a sensor bottom side of the engine (size: golfball)... wire going to a sensor right by the choke on top of the engine(size of a spark plug) and a wire from the choke to this little thing that says 12v resistor smaller round thing in the pic
electric choke

x 2 you can check the choke by running a wire from the battery straight to it and watch and see if it opens

If it works like most electric chokes it should have a coil inside that heats up and slowly opens the choke so it does not depend on actual engine temp

Also there should be an adjustment on it if it is not opening or closing fully

that's about the only way to check it cause the heating of the coil opens it not the heat of the engine like the old spring coil type

the golf ball looking thing should be on the bottom right of the engine--correct? if so that would be the oil pressure sending unit and the spark plug looking thing on top is the coolant temp sender
both should get 12v switched on with the ignition in run

both the wat temp and oil press senders work by varying the reistance to ground---the change in resistance alters the amount of current flow and that is what makes the gauge needle move

The fuel gauge works a little different because it has a voltage regulator built in

clear as MUD?:)

I cant see the choke needing a resistor----hmmm maybe that was meant for the coil---do you have points ignition perhaps? I dont see an igniter in the pic

if that is the case then the resistor is cutting the voltage to 6 volts and that is incorrectly hooked to the choke instead of the + side of the coil---the coil gets 12 volts when starting and a resistor---usually a ballast resistor is used to reduce it to around 6 when the key is in the run position to increase the life of the points

this is just my theory I dont know the carb or choke first hand but I am pretty sure that is what the deal is

You may want to make a post that says ---WEBER CARB ELECTRIC CHOKE QUESTION and ask someone if they have a straight 12 volts to it
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everything else works fine as it should... need to re adjust the gas gauge sensor.. I run out at a quarter of a tank :)

I'm going to try that today and see whats up.

Like I said I dont see a reason for the resistor but I dont have a schematic for it so be a little careful

A clue about the resistor would be if you had points and no resistor to them---do you?

the points will work fine with no resistor they just wont last as long so you wouldn't notice any symptom with the engine until the points started pitting
ahh.. I ran the one and only cable from the choke to the positive lead on the battery... no go :(

I'm going to get my brother to look at it ... hes the electronic guru so maybe him looking at it in real life will make some sense...
Kaput maybe?

how's the case look where it mounts---it will probably have a case ground and if that is dirty, rusty, ----could be a prob

it may take a while to heat up and open

or maybe it is kaput:eek:
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My word I finally had time to look at it and guess what. It wasn't hooked up. Awesome. works now :)
My Weber electric choke wasn't working so I replaced it with a manual choke kit from Napa. It still wouldn't actuate the plate even when I pulled the knob out. Then I read somewhere you have to actuate the throttle half way for the plate to move.:whoops: Turn your ignition switch on, mash down on the gas peddle and see if the choke plate moves.
fast idle

that is the fast idle arm I think you know when you are running it and you blip the throttle and it idles down

for a sec I though you meant the secondaries---they defintely should not be cabled:rolleyes::lol::lol:
whats next.. well I installed a radiator coolant resrevior!!! b/c there wasn't one which was awesome. I'm going through trying to adjust my brakes and well... a few wheel cylinders aren't moving so that needs replacing along with the rear flex brake line hose. It as tight as a tight rope. The to do list keeps growing.

the worst thing... I had a tire jacked up over night b/c I was just tired.... and noticed the next day nice fresh gear oil seeping out from the opposite side of the truck behind the brake shoe. I AM NOT Happy about that! I'm pretty sure that isn't supposed to happen :)
I know the feeling

I know the feeling!

You are laying under your Cruiser contemplating life and cruiser karma and drip, drip, drip, WTH? :lol::lol:

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