Electrical nightmare?

[Kschep]

So it’s time to tackle this rats nest that the PO left me.

How do I go about this? where should I start? Anyone got any good ideas for a checklist as I start this?

And then how do I replace this alternator plug - the wires at connection are fraying a bit and it’s shorting. My fuse blows so I think it’s the problem.

 

[1969FJ]

Do you even know what the PO did ?

 

[3_puppies]

many more questions need to be asked,
what year rig?
what engine?
which steering column?
different guages
fuse block?
making different parts all work together can be difficult but doable.

@ToyotaMatt for a new alternator pig tail

 

[trainrech]

One option would be to pull the harness, trace and mark wires, repair as needed and then reinstall.

 

[Gotta40]

that vw gas pedal is the worst thing. that alone might make it burst into flames!

 

[Kschep]

many more questions need to be asked,
what year rig?
what engine?
which steering column?
different guages
fuse block?
making different parts all work together can be difficult but doable.

76
2F
no idea on steering column
yes gauges - various don't work
PO added - ARB lockers

 

[Cromagnon]

One option would be to pull the harness, trace and mark wires, repair as needed and then reinstall.

This is what I would do as well. Take a large number of photos and tag EVERY connector with where it goes to. Get a 76 wiring diagram and print two copies. Put one away for safe keeping and use the other to keep notes on, annotating any deviations from the factory wiring. Use the correct wiring, available from Coolerman or others. Avoid the temptation to use any color of wire you have laying around. You will be sorry later after you don't remember what that wire goes to. If you want to stay OEM, Coolerman or ToyotaMatt can hook you up with most of the connectors. Do not use wire nuts anywhere on the vehicle and if you find them remove them and use an appropriate method for the connection.

 

[tdskip]

I had similar - but with an engine swap - and went Painless. Not truly painless, but more like dull headache than migraine.

May be overkill for what you need to get sorted out however.

 

[kerplunk]

The plug on the alternator is convenient, but spade terminals on the ends of wires will connect them to the blades on the alternator. You'll have to remember which wire goes where, and it's probably not going to hold them on as secure as a new plug, but it'll fix the immediate issue and kinda blend in with what's under the dash (sorry, couldn't help that)....

(I'd also like a new plug if you find a source, cause trying to remember which wire goes where with spade terminals challenges my short attention span)

If the wires are too short, you could butt splice them with longer wires, but they should only go back to the regulator, on the driver's side firewall usually I think, under the master brake cylinder. Shouldn't be difficult to run two new wires...

But, these should go from the Alternator to the regulator. I'm really not sure how they'd blow any fuses.

The rest of it... You could just pull it all. Read some threads from people that have done this for tips first. I think it's @Coolerman I've heard rebuilds these for people and has been open about sharing methods. Label everything, take pictures, etc.

short of that, start pulling out wires that aren't connected to anything. Cut any ties you need to. If wires run into original Toyota harness, I'd be cautious about cutting into it without taking it out of the vehicle and totally cleaning it. You should be able to find out what for and where they go on the wiring diagram, and if unused cover with shrink tape to make sure they don't short. (unless you're going to totally rewire it).

Then start replacing wires with wire nuts, replace with but splices or whole new wires.

 

[Kschep]

Pull the harness meaning?

 

[tdskip]

The total electrical connection on the rig is call a wiring harness, basically all the wires on the rig that connect the various switches and sensors and lights and engine electrical.

 

[Kschep]

Got it. Thanks.

 

[Kschep]

Trying to reverse engineer this rig because my PO past away ...

Any thoughts on what the heck is going on here?
Was he trying to add cruise control or something?
The steering rod says “84 TILT 4 x 4” so he swapped this in for whatever what there originally.
Other adds : RPM meter ; this green switch that I have no idea what it does yet, a psi gauge for the air lockers I’m guessing?, there are also hook ups for compressed air but the lockers need that so I’m not sure if that’s a separate unit or contained within the locker install.
Tracing commence ...

oh and someone hook me up with a different steering set up .. this is terrible

 

[Kschep]

Really pretty

 

[Engineer8000]

non stock steering column and switches, cobbled together at the connectors for the old ignition switch and turn signal switch.

 

[Engineer8000]

get a schematic from @Coolerman web site. Coolerman's Electrical Schematic and FSM File Retrieval

Remove entire harness from the truck and go through each circuit to verify function and good condition of the wires/connectors. You can spot fix things but might be chasing gremlins forever. You can buy the plastic connector bodies and crimp lugs that fit them. Get a decent crimp tool. I would move back to a stock column and switches too. I unwrapped mine last Winter when I replaced the hacked up dash panel. I added some circuits, etc. Mine has a few extra wires for the 3fe.

 

[peesalot]

with the ash tray, instrument cluster, and cowl vent out you can pretty easy get to the wires. I would remove everything that is not factory, in a factory jacket, in a factory plug, terminated to a stock item, you can fix plugs/connectors once everything is sorted. After removal, identify using mauals, ih8mud, pics, and a 12v battery with jumper lead so you can test unknowns. After you have identified you can determine if the wires have been cobbed so much that a replacement harness is needed or it's actually not too bad and you can repair/replace/make what the PO attempted but in a proper fashion. If circuits work now, then you may want to do some identification prior to removal.

 

[kerplunk]

Before you get too interested in issues with the wiring on your steering column, you should check what's on the other end.

If you have a saginaw power steering conversion, my assumption is that you're almost going to have to use some kinda GM column.

But you should be able to at least pull all the covers off that column and see what kinda switches all these wires are coming off it, and try and remove some you don't need. (i.e. cruise control, windshield wipers if using stock switch, lights is using the stock switch, etc).

On my '74 with a stock Toyota column, I have 4 wires from the ignition switch and (I'm guessing here) maybe 6 or 8 from the turn signal / dimmer (high / low beam, which I assume you have on a foot switch on the floor in your picture). The amount of wiring in that picture seems absurd.

 

[Kschep]

ok I’ve dived in ... now I need help I.D.-ing some various things ... need your keen eyes here

The main blue attachment has lots of wires unused and it’s the main hub coming from steering column - what’s involved in that? What’s that connect mainly?

next one has a fried area and many wires just hanging so it’s a source of issues - what’s that one connect?

next one has an alternator wire in it. See white/blue bigger one... what else is in that connecter?

then the last one pic with the mostly green wires and then has a blue wire as well as white wire black taped... that one needs some attention too.. anyone know what that’s for?

 

[Cromagnon]

If you have a saginaw power steering conversion, my assumption is that you're almost going to have to use some kinda GM column.

Why would you make this assumption...it is just plain WRONG!!!!!!!!!!!! My goodness look at all of the various sag conversions using Toy columns. You can't swing a dead cat without hitting two or three.