Electric Motor running under hood?

[GoISU]

Has anyone ever experienced the sound of a small electric running motor under the hood even when truck is off? Sounds like it may be the headlight washer motor on the passenger side?? I did a quick and easy spray off under the hood and this motor started running while I was drying the exterior off.
I have washed under the hood plenty of times, I didn’t go nuts spraying water all over and I avoided sensitive areas (so I thought). Currently truck is sitting with the positive terminal disconnected. I am worried whatever is running will kill battery and burn itself up. The headlight washer is not deployed and there is washer fluid in the tank.
Hoping for it to sort itself out but if anyone has any ideas other that disconnecting the battery every time I park it let me hear them. Washer motors on their own fuse by chance?
Thanks!
Kevin in IL

 

[grinchy]

There are a couple air injection pumps in that area

 

[bloc]

There are a couple air injection pumps in that area

Agree. Though it shouldn't be running when the truck is off. They are used to help get the cats hot during a cold start.. usually only run for less than a minute in those conditions. I guess a relay or something could be stuck keeping them on.

You can try disconnecting the harness to them to see if the noise stops.. it is easy to get to. See photo.

 

[GoISU]

You are correct @bloc, once I unplugged that connection the pump stopped. Left it unplugged and started the truck, no codes and it drove fine. Next start and it threw a bunch of P codes tied to the air pump system (makes sense since it was unplugged). Weird that it doesn’t throw a code when the pump is plugged in and constantly running when it has power. Also strange that it has failed in the “on” position versus the off position. Unknown if it is coincidental that I washed under the hood or if it just failed out of the blue.
Ill get it into the dealer this week, big spring break road trip this weekend with the family so I need it sorted out. Truck runs fine with the plug you showed disconnected and it shows a blinking 4LO light, CEL and “TRAC OFF” in display. Not sure why TRAC & 4LO would be affected but maybe it is to motivate people to go get service done because it’s emissions related and many would blow it off if that new that’s all that was wrong?
Regardless, thanks for pointing me in the right direction. At least I don’t have to disconnect my battery when I get to work in the morning!

 

[bloc]

You are correct @bloc, once I unplugged that connection the pump stopped. Left it unplugged and started the truck, no codes and it drove fine. Next start and it threw a bunch of P codes tied to the air pump system (makes sense since it was unplugged). Weird that it doesn’t throw a code when the pump is plugged in and constantly running when it has power. Also strange that it has failed in the “on” position versus the off position. Unknown if it is coincidental that I washed under the hood or if it just failed out of the blue.
Ill get it into the dealer this week, big spring break road trip this weekend with the family so I need it sorted out. Truck runs fine with the plug you showed disconnected and it shows a blinking 4LO light, CEL and “TRAC OFF” in display. Not sure why TRAC & 4LO would be affected but maybe it is to motivate people to go get service done because it’s emissions related and many would blow it off if that new that’s all that was wrong?
Regardless, thanks for pointing me in the right direction. At least I don’t have to disconnect my battery when I get to work in the morning!

Any time.

Unfortunately our truck uses some kind of driver for the pumps so it's not just a matter of switching relays with something else to see if the problem follows it. They are the boxes behind the fuse block in the attached picture.

Also I don't think it'll harm anything to be unplugged, even if the ECU isn't happy. My understanding is the whole point is to improve emissions by heating the cats up quicker. Without the pumps they'll eventually heat up and light off, it just takes longer.

I could see a slight argument for unplugging them at the drivers to prevent the harness being loose near the fan, dirt blowing into that connector, etc. but I really think that is a minor detail. You might be able to try alternately unplugging the drivers and see if it's just one or the other.. if it's both that suggests it is an ECU control issue.

Or just let the dealer mess with it.

 

[GoISU]

Yep, off to the dealer. I am hoping I won’t be just paying to part swap until it gets fixed. Hoping to get a seasoned tech who is interested in trouble shooting and diagnostics versus throwing parts at it. I have no problem paying the labor rate to fix only what’s broken versus parts swapping until it works properly.

 

[Sandroad]

Be sure to tell the service dept about the under hood wash. It’s not coincidence the problem happened right then. There’s water in the wrong place, would be my bet.

 

[linuxgod]

I suspect you got some water into the connector or most likely an associated relay, and once it dries it'll stop.

When I originally put on my light bar and rear camp lights I mounted the relay sideways under the hood. Driving around in the rain one day I noticed when I got home that the rear camp lights came on with the truck off. I swapped the relay and they turned off. The original dripped water out of the seam - even though it was snap-together plastic it wasn't water tight. I read after that to always mount your relays with the plugs pointed down... since then no issues.

 

[mystican]

I was helping Kevin out when this happened and helped him disconnect the plug and the pump noise went away. Truck drove fine as well, but why the 4LO start to blink? I do not own a 200, only a 100 and 80.

 

[Sandroad]

I was helping Kevin out when this happened and helped him disconnect the plug and the pump noise went away. Truck drove fine as well, but why the 4LO start to blink? I do not own a 200, only a 100 and 80.

It’s to get owners to pay attention. Many (all?) manufacturers light up the dash like a Christmas tree for any code because so many folks ignore just a CEL.

 

[bloc]

The annoying thing about those codes is they often disable 4Lo so if you are back in the sticks somewhere and need it to get out.. too bad.

I suspect you got some water into the connector or most likely an associated relay, and once it dries it'll stop.

When I originally put on my light bar and rear camp lights I mounted the relay sideways under the hood. Driving around in the rain one day I noticed when I got home that the rear camp lights came on with the truck off. I swapped the relay and they turned off. The original dripped water out of the seam - even though it was snap-together plastic it wasn't water tight. I read after that to always mount your relays with the plugs pointed down... since then no issues.

Toyota has done a much better job of waterproofing everything though, the Oe setup basically can’t be compared to the common aftermarket relays sold with most accessories. The controllers for the AIC pumps are fully submersible and every connector that isn’t a ground (plus some grounds) are gasketed and sealed from water. Unless we’re talking direct spray with a high pressure wand these things shouldn’t be impacted by water. Though I agree it is highly coincidental.

 

[Reckless]

Yep, off to the dealer. I am hoping I won’t be just paying to part swap until it gets fixed. Hoping to get a seasoned tech who is interested in trouble shooting and diagnostics versus throwing parts at it. I have no problem paying the labor rate to fix only what’s broken versus parts swapping until it works properly.

If you find one let me know. My mechanic is pretty smart but I would love to know a decent toyota/lexus dealership in the area. I have gone to oakbrook toyota for recall work and the experience was much different than bmw/mercedes. I see why many people cry but I recommend taking Land Cruiser to really smart aftermarket mechanics.

 

[linuxgod]

If you find one let me know. My mechanic is pretty smart but I would love to know a decent toyota/lexus dealership in the area. I have gone to oakbrook toyota for recall work and the experience was much different than bmw/mercedes. I see why many people cry but I recommend taking Land Cruiser to really smart aftermarket mechanics.

Bredemann in Park Ridge. Thus far anything I've thrown at them they've handled without issue.

 

[GoISU]

Ok, final diagnosis and parts required to fix...

There are two “control modules” (AKA fancy relays I’m told) under the hood that control this emissions equipment and two air pumps (I think). These pumps move air during cold starts into the exhaust stream to help cats heat up quicker and start working ASAP. Tech stated that at least one relay was bad, he ordered both in and swapped until pump stopped running continuously. That was ~ $750 to fix (only one relay was bad).

Relay swapped and it was still throwing codes. Checked pumps and found one that sounded crunchy when running, ordered that pump and replaced it. Codes clear and truck runs perfect.
if you look at the pump pic the plastic turbine part is melted in the center where the shaft must’ve slipped and melted the center. This is not a serviceable part and it was replaced. The control module is also sealed and not serviceable. I am happy with my dealership experience. They took two days but that was only due to waiting on parts. I live in Chicagoland and the control modules were in the regional warehouse but the pump needed to be “shipped overnight” so if you are gonna tackle this yourself I’d order the pump and both control modules to have on hand then return what’s not needed. Access to pump is good if you have an ARB front bumper and I have no idea where the control modules are located but the bad one that came from my truck is pretty clean and shows no indication of water intrusion.

Grand total ~$1,700 (including new wiper blades and power steering system check up). I left the receipt at work so I don’t have the full breakdown on costs but let me know if anyone cares that much. I am sure I could’ve gotten it done locally for cheaper or spent a few days tracking the problem and waiting on parts but I needed it fixed ASAP for a spring break road trip with the family this weekend. All is well but I have only put ten miles on it and two cold starts... so fingers crossed.
hope this helps someone down the road!
-Kevin in IL

Please see pics for additional details

 

[bloc]

Have a pic of the other side of the pump housing? Maybe something got in there and jammed the impeller then that burned up the module.

The controllers are what was in the picture I posted above. Two of them behind the fuse box, each with 2 harnesses. One harness on each has 2 fat wires, one has 6 small ones. The odd thing to me is the two controllers look different, which is a little surprising considering I thought they both did the same job and ran one motor each.

Either way glad you got it fixed. Most problems with the AIC are with the valves on the back of the coolant valley.. don’t hear about motors or controllers often.

 

[Reckless]

Sucks that it was soo expensive to fix. One of the reasons I love my bruiser is I hardly spent $800 in repairs over last 150k miles (not including suspension overhaul). Much cheaper compared to my last car which needed $70k repairs for 100k miles mostly under warranty. Even my mechanic is envious.

How are your ARB bull bars holding up with the chicago salt? Ive been getting daily car washes ever since car wash opened up next door with unlimitted washes for $20/mo but remember you when I think of fluid film. I recommend my buddies to go to you in wheaton.

 

[GoISU]

@bloc first pic shows backside of pump. Let me know if you’d like a better pic. The other side of the fan blade assembly doesn’t have any anomalies I noted. The motor appears to be extremely well built. I may take it apart just to see what it looks like once out of the housing and see if there’s anything obviously fried in there.
@Reckless the bumpers front and rear are holding up great, I fluid film the inside though (of course) and the powder coat looks perfect.

 

[bloc]

@bloc first pic shows backside of pump. Let me know if you’d like a better pic. The other side of the fan blade assembly doesn’t have any anomalies I noted. The motor appears to be extremely well built. I may take it apart just to see what it looks like once out of the housing and see if there’s anything obviously fried in there.
@Reckless the bumpers front and rear are holding up great, I fluid film the inside though (of course) and the powder coat looks perfect.

I was thinking the inside of the other housing that encloses the impeller. Reason is the gray marks on it in your second picture suggesting contact there, though yes those may have come after things got too hot and melted at the shaft interface.

 

[GoISU]

Here’s some close ups. Maybe I’ll pop the housing open today. Like I said, it’s a substantial part, I think the motor it’s self is going to be a quality part.

 

[Cruisin911]

Secondary Air Injection Bypass Kits | Hewitt Technologies

Hewitt Tech is the Home of the Original Secondary Air Injection System (SAIS) Bypass Kits for Toyota & Lexus vehicles. These kits offer a cost effective DIY solution for the failure prone SAIS. Common codes include; P0412 P0415 P0418 P0419 P1441 P1442 P1444 P1445 P2440 P2441 P2442 P2443 P2445 P2447

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Can save yourself some money and LOTS of time. Bypass the whole thing. Running it for 2 years now. Not a single issue.

These AIP systems are constantly a challenge on all 5.7 vehicles. So much so that Toyota extended the warranty on them to 10yrs/120k miles. Fun fact is that Toyota will NOT warranty the part on the Land Cruiser, only the Tundra and Sequoia, even though they share the same part numbers. Toyota wanted me to spend 1200 to remove the manifold to verify that the part is bad and then maybe I could claim a warranty fix but no guarantee. Bypassed the whole thing for a couple hundred bucks...... Over the whole system. It's crap.