Electric fuel pump paired with Aisan (1 Viewer)

[togntime1]

I'm trying to acquire proper components for my fuel system rebuild. I'll be running stock 1F motor paired with original Aisan carb.

Is general consensus to go with an electric fuel pump? If so what fuel flow rate should I look for? When removing the mechanical pump, what can I seal the hole up with.

Thanks!

 

[65swb45]

General consensus is mechanical pump, not electric.

 

[Solace in Solitude]

If you go electric, Carter makes a 3-5psi... no need for fuel regulator

Big Block Chevy Blockoff Plate

 

[Warloc]

IMO avoid any and all electric fuel pumps if you can install a mechanical one. Been there and done it, never again.

 

[Solace in Solitude]

I wouldn’t swap back to a mechanical pump for anything.

With my pair of Carter pumps, one for each tank, I have built in redundancy, in the event of a pump failure... which I haven’t encountered.

I also carry a new Carter pump... just in case... and can swap it out in less than 10 minutes.

No more worries about a mech pump diaphragm failure dumping fuel into the crankcase in the middle of nowhere.

To each his/her own.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

General consensus is mechanical pump, not electric.

2nd , " General consensus is mechanical pump, not electric."

 

[ToyotaMatt]

A KYOSAN employee hard at work Continuing to make us Reliable Mechanical Diaphragm Fuel Pumps .......


Like all the 23100-6 # # # #'s

 

[65swb45]

I wouldn’t swap back to a mechanical pump for anything.

With my pair of Carter pumps, one for each tank, I have built in redundancy, in the event of a pump failure... which I haven’t encountered.

I also carry a new Carter pump... just in case... and can swap it out in less than 10 minutes.

No more worries about a mech pump diagrapham failure dumping fuel into the crankcase in the middle of nowhere.

To each his/her own.

As I wrote for the Toyota Trails over a decade ago, we make many of our decisions based on limiting vulnerability.

Sorry to read that the mechanical fuel pump makes you feel vulnerable. I have been driving, wheeling and wrenching on Landcruisers for 33 years now and have never had a Kyosan pump fail on me.

That said, I have an electric pump wired in on 4 of my rigs in order to pump an aux tank. So I know I could run the truck off of one IF a mechanical pump should ever fail me.

 

[Solace in Solitude]

I hear ya Mark (@65swb45).

About two years after I bought 44 (2016), the mech pump quit pumping enough volume, about 10 miles off pavement, up in the hills.

I swapped in my spare, which was a pain in the ass, on large rocks, with scorpions under many of them.

When I got home, I took the faulty pump apart and found two small cracks in the diaphragm.

I dodged a bullet on that trip... I don’t carry enough oil to change the oil out in the bush.

That’s when I decided to make the change to electric pumps... less vulnerable... more secure... as long as I carry contingencies.

I do carry my good mech pump as an additional fail-safe, but fully trust my Carter’s.

IIRC John (@bikersmurf) hasn’t had his Carter fail, in about 20 years of use.

 

[ryanwk628]

I replaced my mechanical fuel pump with a new one from City Racer because the old one was going bad. I kept thinking my problems were carb issues but the diaphragm was failing, probably from years of sitting with crummy modern gas.

It was easy enough to swap, but would make for an expensive spare on hand.

Unrelated, a BBC block off plate is the right size? Just want to confirm as that will save me some work if I go EFI in the future.

 

[Solace in Solitude]

I replaced my mechanical fuel pump with a new one from City Racer because the old one was going bad. I kept thinking my problems were carb issues but the diaphragm was failing, probably from years of sitting with crummy modern gas.

It was easy enough to swap, but would make for an expensive spare on hand.

Unrelated, a BBC block off plate is the right size? Just want to confirm as that will save me some work if I go EFI in the future.

Yep... BBC Blockoff Plate

 

[Steamer]

When I got my rig 18 years ago and not knowing how old the (running fine) fuel pump was, I installed a new Kyosan for peace of mind. A year later I was tired of all the cranking required to fill the carb bowl after sitting for a period of time so I added an electric fuel pump. I’m using a solenoid type pump and plumbed it inline before the Kyosan. Before I did this I checked for restriction. I used a temporary vacuum gauge and let the Kyosan run without the electric pump plumbed in and then checked the vacuum again with it pulling through the electric pump but turned off. The difference in suction was undetectable so I went with the two pumps permanently.

I only run the electric pump just before startup (after sitting) for about 10 seconds then it’s off until the next cold start. I like how I can flip the switch and watch the bowl fill in the sight glass. I figure the electric pump is also backup should the Kyosan fail but doubt it ever will.

It’s been working good like that for 17 years. I first bought a rotary vane pump but couldn’t even blow through it so I didn’t bother with it.

Also this is the 2 port Kyosan on my 74. I tried to do this set up on the 3 port pump on the 2F in my 83 fj60. The electric pump wouldn’t push through the mechanical pump so I didn’t install it. I did however get a new 2 port Kyosan like what’s in my 74 but haven’t tried it out yet

 

[togntime1]

Thanks guys. I opted for mechanical and ordered OEM replacement. Are both the hard and rubber fuel line 5/16"?

 

[ryanwk628]

Thanks guys. I opted for mechanical and ordered OEM replacement. Are both the hard and rubber fuel line 5/16"?

Here is what I did

I made a new fuel line tonight to work with the trollhole carb (input tapped 90 degrees over.) Ordered 25' of 5/16" line. I'm glad I did because it took four tries to get it right!

Tube cutter I borrowed from a friend works awesome
View attachment 1394046

I got a $12 Tekton Amazon Prime bender. It's cast aluminum and impressed me for the price. Tricky to get used to though and awkward to hold both ends but also keep the tube oriented how you want it while you clamp it in. A friend to hold things in place would help. View attachment 1394047

The finished fuel line. I started from the 90 over the t stat and worked out from there. Working from one end saw too much stack up. This way it was only two bends to the end from the 90, then trimmed the excess so it bottomed out in each hole and installed the Toyota crush fittings.
2 x Union Nut (90402-13041)
2 x Fuel Line Olive (96395-71400)
View attachment 1394056

From the fuel filter to the fuel pump I used 3/8 ID soft hose and hose clamps

 

[65swb45]

Thanks guys. I opted for mechanical and ordered OEM replacement. Are both the hard and rubber fuel line 5/16"?

Yes.

 

[Dizzy]

I just disassembled my OEM pump, and there are cracks in the diaphragm on the gas/ethanol side. Although the diaphragm has like three layers, and the middle one is a fabric.

The oil seal at the bottom is shot as well.

I don't know the history of the motor; I am unsure if I want to go with an OEM pump. BTW, the AAP in the carb was shot too. Can anyone comment about ethanol, and/or alternative fuel pumps?

 

[65swb45]

I just disassembled my OEM pump, and there are cracks in the diaphragm on the gas/ethanol side. Although the diaphragm has like three layers, and the middle one is a fabric.

The oil seal at the bottom is shot as well.

I don't know the history of the motor; I am unsure if I want to go with an OEM pump. BTW, the AAP in the carb was shot too. Can anyone comment about ethanol, and/or alternative fuel pumps?

Run a search query for posts about RFG from @FJ40Jim and you will find plenty of informative comments.