Electric Cooling Fan Conversion - 2007 LX470 (1 Viewer)

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Do you happen to have the part number for that honda temp switch?
Here's the part I bought: Amazon.com: OKAY MOTOR Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor with Pigtail Connector for GM GMC Chevy Cadillac Buick Oldsmobile Acura Isuzu Honda: Automotive

J1000, thanks for all the information. I just replaced my original radiator with an all aluminum Amazon one and did the electrical fan conversion. The radiator is a little thicker, longer, but not as wide. I used Derale part #16838, flex-a-lite controller 33055, flex-a-lite 1/4 NPT thermocouple, Amazon alum hose coupler with sensor hole, generic SPDT switch (Amazon :)).
Looks awesome! I'm going to grab one of those hose couplers that's clean! How does the variable speed controller work? Do you have video of it on low and high speed? Thanks for sharing!
 
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Looks awesome! I'm going to grab one of those hose couplers that's clean! How does the variable speed controller work? Do you have video of it on low and high speed? Thanks for sharing!

Sorry no video, I'll try and make one if I remember to.... I used my cheap OBD2 reader with the Torque ap on phone to see coolant temps and set the controller to come on about 90deg C / 194 deg F (doesnt have F, need to get Scangauge) using the adjustment screw. I chose this controller because I got it free from a friend ($85 on Summit), it's rated to 45amps and the fans are max 25amps each, so technically I'm pass the limit, but if the controller cannot handle the max amperage I will need to get another controller. I have it hooked up to a 50amp circuit breaker. So far it's good, we shall see this summer when I go on my yearly Baja trip.

The hose coupler with sensor hole was cheap ($12?), but nice anodized aluminum. The hole is only tapped 1/8 NPT and needed to be retapped to 1/4 NPT to fit the sensor.

The fans sound like a hovercraft lol. You can feel the hot air being blown back when standing outside the driver door :)
 
Those that have done the electric conversion, still overall positive about the change?

Does anyone have it done that deals with 100+ degrees? I put in a toyota radiator last summer with new clutch and don't have any heating issues. But, my AC will get warmish after idling in 95 deg heat after about 10 minutes or so. I added the little AC fan and that helped, but it still doesn't stay cold. I'm wondering if full electric conversion might be better?
 
Those that have done the electric conversion, still overall positive about the change?

Does anyone have it done that deals with 100+ degrees? I put in a toyota radiator last summer with new clutch and don't have any heating issues. But, my AC will get warmish after idling in 95 deg heat after about 10 minutes or so. I added the little AC fan and that helped, but it still doesn't stay cold. I'm wondering if full electric conversion might be better?
Hello from Norman, I added one myself, and it helped some, I recharged my LCs A/C as well and that helped the most. However I have discovered that my radiator is failing. I will be taking mine in to the dealer to check the system and have it cleaned as well. I suspect I may have other things going on. I should clarify, I haven't done this conversion yet, but I added the additional cooling fan to mine from the older model 100s. Looking at doing this conversion since my radiator is failing.
 
Hello from Norman, I added one myself, and it helped some, I recharged my LCs A/C as well and that helped the most. However I have discovered that my radiator is failing. I will be taking mine in to the dealer to check the system and have it cleaned as well. I suspect I may have other things going on. I should clarify, I haven't done this conversion yet, but I added the additional cooling fan to mine from the older model 100s. Looking at doing this conversion since my radiator is failing.

I probably should check the AC charge, I was just assuming since in normal driving it's ice cold that everything was good.

When I was studying the controllers for these conversion fans, I got a little nervous about doing it. There are quite a few complaints on the main manufacturers variable speed controllers. Not sure if that's a function of EVERYONE that has a bad experience posts online, or if the controllers really have more issue than they should. I'd still like to do it, but don't want to take something that's reliable and replace it with a headache.

Good luck with yours, keep us posted.
 
How is everyone's conversion holding up? Any more extreme testing and data? About to do the water pump and timing belt and considering doing this at the same time instead of another fan bracket.
 
I've ordered all the parts I need for this, and ended up going with this controller: Harris Controls Dual Fan Controller mainly because I wanted the variable speed control and AC override. I originally ordered a couple of the Flex-a-lite controllers and was unimpressed with their quality control - they went back to Amazon.

Edit: I also ordered the parts to tap into the AC pressure switch like OP did, which I can connect to a ground on one end and the override input on the fan controller, so when the pressure gets high in the AC system it'll trigger both electric fans to run.

I'll be using a 1/8" npt temp sensor and the above controller is able to be adjusted to set a low fan speed and high fan speed based on the temp sensor input. I ordered a standard hose adapter off amazon that I can splice into the upper rad hose to mount the temp sensor.

The motivation for this is simply the really hot areas that I visit on occasion (canyonlands, Moab, etc) drive the engine temps too high on the 100. Earlier this year, I swapped in a mishimoto aluminum radiator and a new fan clutch, but still had a very close call when I was spotting some friends through the Maze district and my wife was driving the 100 and not paying attention to the temp gauge. It was 'only' about 100 degrees outside but at low speed, the mechanical fan just doesn't move enough air to keep the engine cool when working through more severe obstacles.

Since we're coming up on winter and I'm about to close on a house, this will likely get done late this year or early next year. I'll try to remember to post up my experience when I get around to doing the install.

A question - what did ya'll end up doing with the coolant bottle? I'm thinking I'll just drill a couple holes in the fan shroud and mount it in roughly the same location as it lives in now. I saw some temp solutions in this thread, but not a permanent one.

Edit edit: BTW @J1000 thank you for the fuel temp testing as well. I added a bunch of heat shielding along the fuel tank before my last trip to canyonlands and it made a huge difference in fuel temps. I never had the fuel smell or venting and zero starting issues.
 
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Curious … after supercharging did you find the cooling setup you did here was adequate? Thinking about going this route before I supercharge the truck.
 
Hello, Reviving an old thread.

Someone told me that by converting the 2UZ-FE to an eclectic fan , it is possible to get +2 MPG increase in fuel mileage. I did some searching on here, and I didnt find any accounts of anyone doing this other than yours. Can you let us know if that is true, did you see an increase in fuel economy by doing this?
thanks
 
Hello, Reviving an old thread.

Someone told me that by converting the 2UZ-FE to an eclectic fan , it is possible to get +2 MPG increase in fuel mileage. I did some searching on here, and I didnt find any accounts of anyone doing this other than yours. Can you let us know if that is true, did you see an increase in fuel economy by doing this?
thanks

Hmm I forgot about this thread until you bumped it.

I never did see any noticeable change in MPG when doing the electric fan conversion. However, I didn't track my mileage too closely (awful + 2 is still pretty awful) and how I use my 100 means I rarely have a tank that breaks 10mpg anyway.

I ran with the electric fans for around 2 years, but I have since had to go to a combination mechanical/electric fan solution because I was unable to keep my LX cool under certain conditions. Namely:
  • Going over colorado mountain passes in summer - even when just moving itself, this requires a lot of power/RPMs and I would watch the coolant temp climb to 230+ before I'd let off the gas and drop down to 55mph or so to let the engine cool
  • Towing heavy loads on any sort of grade (camper is 6500lbs but even my 2500 lbs trailer causes issues) - I have the 10% underdrive gears in my T-case, and the electric fans cannot keep the engine cool when towing up any significant grade here in colorado. Winter, I can maintain about 35mph over most mountain passes. Summer - no chance at all. I had to stop probably 5 times in 10 miles heading from 5500 to 8500 feet due to coolant temps reading 240+
My solution to these issues was to run two electric fans (pusher/condensor fan and one puller in the engine bay) plus the mechanical fan. The e-fans keep the engine cool on hot days/low range and the mechanical fan moves enough air when towing my camper to allow me to climb the crazy grades we have around here without stopping.
 
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