I have 85 FJ60 2F engine running great, mainly operated at an altitude of 5800-6500ft. While traveling at 60 mph the EGR tube blew out of the cooler. For a couple of months prior I smelled small amount of exhaust in the cab so it was probably leaking before it blew. We didn't know how catastrophic it could be when it failed or would have looked into it sooner. When the hot exhaust filled the engine compartment at 60mph, the brakes failed, they went to the floor, luckily no one was injured. Still not sure why they failed but assumed the brake fluid boiled, also the brake booster line was damaged, wires fried and coolant tube all in the back of the engine bay where the fumes would collect and heat everything. The coolant leaked but engine didn't appear to overheat according to the temp gauge. Quickly used the e-brake and pulled off the highway. After getting a tow for 20 miles, and a couple hours later the brakes worked again (when just rolling the truck without starting it and applying the brakes, stopped no problem). Had a friend perform repairs, repairs included
removed EGR, EGR modulator EGR cooler and tube because the tube will no longer thread into the cooler everything was removed.
·A plate was bolted where the egr tube feeds from the exhaust.
·Replaced black temperature sensing gauge wire for carb fan, a green wire that goes to maybe the coolant gauge next to the valve cover
·replaced brake booster tube and accordion part that fits into intake manifold (ac something or other?)
·flushed master brake cylinder and bleeding all brake lines
·replaced choke cable
·replaced intake and exhaust manifold gasket and sealing it with orange gasket sealer (looked like it may have had a little exhaust leak past the old gasket at some point in its life)
·the carb was removed to replace the manifold gasket but nothing was done to it.
·BVSV (violet one) was broken during repairs and vacuum tube looped to bypass was added.
·Coolant tube in back replaced
At this point I'm not sure what else was done to get it to run, but I believe the timing was advanced from 7 degrees BTDC to 14 degrees BTDC and the mixture screw was turned out to 5.25 turns, and vacuum lines re-routed to possibly account for missing EGR and EGR modulator. It idled great and drove great for about 10 miles. Then it started to die when giving gas going up a slight hill, but it idled fine. I thought I could hear a sucking sound and the gas in the carb window looked low. Nursed it back to flatter area and let it sit a day. The next day it was drivable downhill. Drove the next day without too much problem, seemed okay. The friend who repaired it opened the top of the carb and found gasket material in the float needle and bowl. He removed it and it ran okay for another day or two. Then idling problems occurred. I removed the carb and tore it down. I found gasket material in the slow primary jet and cleaned the gasket material off the carb base that my friend had applied when fitting everything back together previously. I replaced everything I could from a hygrade rebuild kit (Thanks Pinhead for the youtube!). The heat shield was broken and where the metal tube for the evap system at the base of the carb insulator was cracked where it’s epoxied in place (maybe from heat, maybe from age). The infamous 4 hoses on the valve side of the carb were cracked through as well (possibly the sucking sound). I replaced the heat shield insulator combo with a Cdan Toyota one with the bonded gaskets. Before putting it on, I looked for the manifold crack so many people talk about but didn't see anything and I put the rebuilt carb back on and replaced all the vacuum lines and routed the lines correctly according to FSM and fender sticker. I capped the hard line that fed the modulator and vacuum solenoid switch that fed the egr/egr modulator (I don't remember where it led to)
Results:
The truck fired right up but will only start with the choke pulled completely out and pumping the gas pedal twice to set the choke. Once it is started, I can push the choke in but then I can only keep it idling using the throttle, or pulling the choke 1/8”, just enough to lift the accelerator but not enough to close the plate. After it starts, if the choke is pulled out all the way the engine revs to 2000-2500 rpms. When pushing the accelerator it responds immediately and sounds great. I've tried a number of things to get it to idle, adjusted the carb using the lean drop method (not very successfully), tightened carb base, and adjusted the timing. Rechecked vacuum routing, HAC right and left were wrong so I fixed those without any luck. First I put the vacuum gauge on the brake booster line hoping to remove the booster from the vacuum circuit in case it was bad and the reading was really low at 5 or so inHg. Then put the brake booster line back on and put vacuum gauge between smaller vacuum line on the manifold at accordion and one of the solenoid vacuum switch ports. The reading started at around 11-12 inHg oscillating up to 15 or so. If I gunned it and quickly let up on the accelerator it went low and then high (around 22-25 inHg) like it is supposed to do.
From reading many posts, I'm suspecting a vacuum leak somewhere but the possibility it’s just a mis-tuned carb occurred to me as well since it did run fine before the gasket material got sucked up into the jet. Or the bonded gaskets on the carb insulator don't work well, which might be why I found gasket sealer on them along with doubled-up gaskets. Maybe I need to add paper gaskets there, or send the carb off to JimC to see if he sees anything messed up or otherwise qualify it as good or bad. Right now I'm at a loss besides pulling the carb again. Oh, the fuel cut solenoid clicks, and the gas is in the middle of the carb window (but sometimes goes a hair higher than middle if I've revved it a lot). I've read other peoples post on won't idle less than 1000 rpms but there usually isn't a conclusion post identifying what the person ultimately fixed it with. Does anyone know if I can isolate the brake booster in case it was damaged and leaking vacuum? Any input/help appreciated!
removed EGR, EGR modulator EGR cooler and tube because the tube will no longer thread into the cooler everything was removed.
·A plate was bolted where the egr tube feeds from the exhaust.
·Replaced black temperature sensing gauge wire for carb fan, a green wire that goes to maybe the coolant gauge next to the valve cover
·replaced brake booster tube and accordion part that fits into intake manifold (ac something or other?)
·flushed master brake cylinder and bleeding all brake lines
·replaced choke cable
·replaced intake and exhaust manifold gasket and sealing it with orange gasket sealer (looked like it may have had a little exhaust leak past the old gasket at some point in its life)
·the carb was removed to replace the manifold gasket but nothing was done to it.
·BVSV (violet one) was broken during repairs and vacuum tube looped to bypass was added.
·Coolant tube in back replaced
At this point I'm not sure what else was done to get it to run, but I believe the timing was advanced from 7 degrees BTDC to 14 degrees BTDC and the mixture screw was turned out to 5.25 turns, and vacuum lines re-routed to possibly account for missing EGR and EGR modulator. It idled great and drove great for about 10 miles. Then it started to die when giving gas going up a slight hill, but it idled fine. I thought I could hear a sucking sound and the gas in the carb window looked low. Nursed it back to flatter area and let it sit a day. The next day it was drivable downhill. Drove the next day without too much problem, seemed okay. The friend who repaired it opened the top of the carb and found gasket material in the float needle and bowl. He removed it and it ran okay for another day or two. Then idling problems occurred. I removed the carb and tore it down. I found gasket material in the slow primary jet and cleaned the gasket material off the carb base that my friend had applied when fitting everything back together previously. I replaced everything I could from a hygrade rebuild kit (Thanks Pinhead for the youtube!). The heat shield was broken and where the metal tube for the evap system at the base of the carb insulator was cracked where it’s epoxied in place (maybe from heat, maybe from age). The infamous 4 hoses on the valve side of the carb were cracked through as well (possibly the sucking sound). I replaced the heat shield insulator combo with a Cdan Toyota one with the bonded gaskets. Before putting it on, I looked for the manifold crack so many people talk about but didn't see anything and I put the rebuilt carb back on and replaced all the vacuum lines and routed the lines correctly according to FSM and fender sticker. I capped the hard line that fed the modulator and vacuum solenoid switch that fed the egr/egr modulator (I don't remember where it led to)
Results:
The truck fired right up but will only start with the choke pulled completely out and pumping the gas pedal twice to set the choke. Once it is started, I can push the choke in but then I can only keep it idling using the throttle, or pulling the choke 1/8”, just enough to lift the accelerator but not enough to close the plate. After it starts, if the choke is pulled out all the way the engine revs to 2000-2500 rpms. When pushing the accelerator it responds immediately and sounds great. I've tried a number of things to get it to idle, adjusted the carb using the lean drop method (not very successfully), tightened carb base, and adjusted the timing. Rechecked vacuum routing, HAC right and left were wrong so I fixed those without any luck. First I put the vacuum gauge on the brake booster line hoping to remove the booster from the vacuum circuit in case it was bad and the reading was really low at 5 or so inHg. Then put the brake booster line back on and put vacuum gauge between smaller vacuum line on the manifold at accordion and one of the solenoid vacuum switch ports. The reading started at around 11-12 inHg oscillating up to 15 or so. If I gunned it and quickly let up on the accelerator it went low and then high (around 22-25 inHg) like it is supposed to do.
From reading many posts, I'm suspecting a vacuum leak somewhere but the possibility it’s just a mis-tuned carb occurred to me as well since it did run fine before the gasket material got sucked up into the jet. Or the bonded gaskets on the carb insulator don't work well, which might be why I found gasket sealer on them along with doubled-up gaskets. Maybe I need to add paper gaskets there, or send the carb off to JimC to see if he sees anything messed up or otherwise qualify it as good or bad. Right now I'm at a loss besides pulling the carb again. Oh, the fuel cut solenoid clicks, and the gas is in the middle of the carb window (but sometimes goes a hair higher than middle if I've revved it a lot). I've read other peoples post on won't idle less than 1000 rpms but there usually isn't a conclusion post identifying what the person ultimately fixed it with. Does anyone know if I can isolate the brake booster in case it was damaged and leaking vacuum? Any input/help appreciated!