EBI (Extreme Bend Inc) (1 Viewer)

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Ok. From what I can figure, I'm going to have to cut the tube for the top down the middle in order for it to line-up. Right now, the tube is all the way against the aluminum tub vertical channel and can't be moved outward. How did you rectify that?
Yes you have to cut the tube. With the aluminum tub you dont need the alignment tube and it actually gets in the way on the aluminum tub so u have to cut it. Here is my build thread: Builds - Fj40 Daily and Wheeler build

My cruiser is a bit more of a offroad build but most the details of my tub install should apply to you. As I mentioned, as you line things up clamp it with c clamps. Once all parts are mocked and lined up you drill your mounting holes.
 
Yes you have to cut the tube. With the aluminum tub you dont need the alignment tube and it actually gets in the way on the aluminum tub so u have to cut it. Here is my build thread: Builds - Fj40 Daily and Wheeler build

My cruiser is a bit more of a offroad build but most the details of my tub install should apply to you. As I mentioned, as you line things up clamp it with c clamps. Once all parts are mocked and lined up you drill your mounting holes.
Hi,

Thanks for the link to your build. Made it easier to locate.

Ok, I see you had the same issues as I'm running into. Sooo, I feel much better. Read through pages 11 and 12 very carefully to see exactly what you did. I'm going from memory here, but I believe my door measurements were 33 7/16" from cowl to b pillar for both doors. Yup, have the same gap as you had.

Today, I'll take a DEEP breath and go out and loosen the bolts on the cowl and start realigning everything and see how that goes.

Thanks!
 
Hi,

Thanks for the link to your build. Made it easier to locate.

Ok, I see you had the same issues as I'm running into. Sooo, I feel much better. Read through pages 11 and 12 very carefully to see exactly what you did. I'm going from memory here, but I believe my door measurements were 33 7/16" from cowl to b pillar for both doors. Yup, have the same gap as you had.

Today, I'll take a DEEP breath and go out and loosen the bolts on the cowl and start realigning everything and see how that goes.

Thanks!
Sure. And most of the old holes the old tub used to bolt to the cowl aren't used. U drill new holes. But remember no drilling until everything is lined up and mocked up with c clamps or vice grips and triple checked. I had to buy a bunch of clamp type vice grips. It's slow, tedious, and frustrating but not really that hard. I didnt get the front clip fully lined until about 2 months after it was on the road, because it's a pain. In the end, despite the aqualu's negative aspects, I feel it overall was still a good decision.
21951097_1848133635516511_8379886884681974565_o.jpg
 
Sure. And most of the old holes the old tub used to bolt to the cowl aren't used. U drill new holes. But remember no drilling until everything is lined up and mocked up with c clamps or vice grips and triple checked. I had to buy a bunch of clamp type vice grips. It's slow, tedious, and frustrating but not really that hard. I didnt get the front clip fully lined until about 2 months after it was on the road, because it's a pain. In the end, despite the aqualu's negative aspects, I feel it overall was still a good decision.View attachment 2245653
Well... Got the bolts lose on the cowl. Now, I can neither tighten nor loosen and can't get a wrench between the cowl and rubber mount. Even more frustrating is the cowl won't budge. What am I missing here? I only saw two bolts holding this to the frame. After taking measurements, I'm out of square a little less than 3/8", about what I need to clear the holes on the driver's side and less for the passenger side.

I put a 2x4 on the back of the tub and used my tractor to see if I couldn't nudge things without causing damage. No luck there.
 
Well... Got the bolts lose on the cowl. Now, I can neither tighten nor loosen and can't get a wrench between the cowl and rubber mount. Even more frustrating is the cowl won't budge. What am I missing here? I only saw two bolts holding this to the frame. After taking measurements, I'm out of square a little less than 3/8", about what I need to clear the holes on the driver's side and less for the passenger side.

I put a 2x4 on the back of the tub and used my tractor to see if I couldn't nudge things without causing damage. No luck there.
Your cowl original mounting hardware may be really corroded. May need to cut it out or heat with a torch to remove the bolt. Use ratchet strap to adjust the cowl toward the tub like I did in my pics.
 
Your cowl original mounting hardware may be really corroded. May need to cut it out or heat with a torch to remove the bolt. Use ratchet strap to adjust the cowl toward the tub like I did in my pics.
I'll need to figure out how to cut the bolts off. They spin freely, so guessing the nuts came loose. Hmm, see if my sawzall will fit.

With the door on the driver's side mounted, seem to pull the cowl towards the tub. I sat on the passenger side and drilled a hole to mount the tub to the cowl to see if I could gain anything that way as to bolt holes. A little, but not enough.

So, after moving the cowl, any issues with reinstalling the fenders and hood? I'm half tempted to just drill bolt holes in the tub supports to align with the tub. Would make for some interesting holes.

Here's a couple of pics as to how far I got before running into the bolt hole alignment issue.
IMG_0583.jpeg


IMG_0584.jpeg


IMG_0585.jpeg

I can live with the door alignment as looks pretty good to me. Will see how it looks once I get the top sides put in place. I need to reinstall one of the support hinges in the cowl for the passenger side and then mount that door and see how things look.

IMG_0586.jpeg

Didn't want to mess with the air conditioning unit since I had it recently charged. That was before starting this project as I hadn't planned on having to do this. Sooo, just hung it out of the way. Will need to bend the transfer case shifter forward a bit so that it clears the sides when shifting to 4H and especially 4L. Steve clued me in earlier on that one.
 
I'll need to figure out how to cut the bolts off. They spin freely, so guessing the nuts came loose. Hmm, see if my sawzall will fit.

With the door on the driver's side mounted, seem to pull the cowl towards the tub. I sat on the passenger side and drilled a hole to mount the tub to the cowl to see if I could gain anything that way as to bolt holes. A little, but not enough.

So, after moving the cowl, any issues with reinstalling the fenders and hood? I'm half tempted to just drill bolt holes in the tub supports to align with the tub. Would make for some interesting holes.

Here's a couple of pics as to how far I got before running into the bolt hole alignment issue.
View attachment 2245995

View attachment 2245996

View attachment 2245997
I can live with the door alignment as looks pretty good to me. Will see how it looks once I get the top sides put in place. I need to reinstall one of the support hinges in the cowl for the passenger side and then mount that door and see how things look.

View attachment 2246000
Didn't want to mess with the air conditioning unit since I had it recently charged. That was before starting this project as I hadn't planned on having to do this. Sooo, just hung it out of the way. Will need to bend the transfer case shifter forward a bit so that it clears the sides when shifting to 4H and especially 4L. Steve clued me in earlier on that one.
Drilling holes to line up the tub will actually throw off the alignment in the end. Dont shortcut this step, it will really hurt the end product and overall look and value of the cruiser. If you dont have the tools to line up the tub harbor freight should have what you need and they will last you long enough for at least this one job. As far as the hood and fenders yes u will have to align those too but save that for last.
 
Drilling holes to line up the tub will actually throw off the alignment in the end. Dont shortcut this step, it will really hurt the end product and overall look and value of the cruiser. If you dont have the tools to line up the tub harbor freight should have what you need and they will last you long enough for at least this one job. As far as the hood and fenders yes u will have to align those too but save that for last.
What tools did you use to get the bolts out of the cowl support?
 
I just soaked them in PB blaster and they came out.
Unfortunately, mine just spin in place. I'll have to give this some serious thought. Not sure what I'd need to replace whatever gets burned up using a cutting torch to remove the bolts. I don't see any other way of removing them.

Ordered hardtop to body gaskets and packer from City Racer today. Have plenty of c-clamps. Have a hole punch, so could punch holes in any rubber material I need.
 
Unfortunately, mine just spin in place. I'll have to give this some serious thought. Not sure what I'd need to replace whatever gets burned up using a cutting torch to remove the bolts. I don't see any other way of removing them.

Ordered hardtop to body gaskets and packer from City Racer today. Have plenty of c-clamps. Have a hole punch, so could punch holes in any rubber material I need.
The flat strip gasket for the hard top to tub rail flange needs to be custom for the aqualu. So I used 1/4" strip rubber off of ebay. For mock up I just stacked washers along the tub rail to equal the 1/4". For cutting the bolt Im sure a sawzall with a small blade might fit, or if your surgeon like with a torch or plasma cutter that would work too.
 
The flat strip gasket for the hard top to tub rail flange needs to be custom for the aqualu. So I used 1/4" strip rubber off of ebay. For mock up I just stacked washers along the tub rail to equal the 1/4". For cutting the bolt Im sure a sawzall with a small blade might fit, or if your surgeon like with a torch or plasma cutter that would work too.
Oh. Ok, I'll use it as a template then. Wasn't very expensive and I have a role of 1/4" rubber.
 
The flat strip gasket for the hard top to tub rail flange needs to be custom for the aqualu. So I used 1/4" strip rubber off of ebay. For mock up I just stacked washers along the tub rail to equal the 1/4". For cutting the bolt Im sure a sawzall with a small blade might fit, or if your surgeon like with a torch or plasma cutter that would work too.
Got the bolts cut on the cowl and was able to move it. Got 5 of the 6 bolts in, sorta. One is sooooo close of dropping into the mount hole, but regardless of what I do, it will not drop - it's frustrating. The bolt that originally fit on the passenger side is now at an angle and I can't get it squared up. I took measurements all the way around and that tub is dead square with the frame and fits nicely with the cowl. So, I may just drill out the two holes. One would need only minor adjustment. The crocked one a bit more. Now to locate a 6" drill bit or remove the tub and drill, which I'd rather not do. One 72-year young man operation here. :)

Put the passenger door on. Now to start placing the other parts and check for alignment, etc.

Any suggestions for removing glass that actually works? I tried some of the things I saw on the web and that didn't work. I guess the other option is to cut the seals and buy new. The seals appear in good shape, so would like to salvage them.
 
Got the bolts cut on the cowl and was able to move it. Got 5 of the 6 bolts in, sorta. One is sooooo close of dropping into the mount hole, but regardless of what I do, it will not drop - it's frustrating. The bolt that originally fit on the passenger side is now at an angle and I can't get it squared up. I took measurements all the way around and that tub is dead square with the frame and fits nicely with the cowl. So, I may just drill out the two holes. One would need only minor adjustment. The crocked one a bit more. Now to locate a 6" drill bit or remove the tub and drill, which I'd rather not do. One 72-year young man operation here. :)

Put the passenger door on. Now to start placing the other parts and check for alignment, etc.

Any suggestions for removing glass that actually works? I tried some of the things I saw on the web and that didn't work. I guess the other option is to cut the seals and buy new. The seals appear in good shape, so would like to salvage them.
Im not sure what bolts you are talking about. You mean the body mount bolts? Post up pics. Are you using the aqualu bolts? What do you need a 6" drill bit for? Sounds like you are starting to make progress lining it up. I loosened up the front door hinges and slid the doors back as much as they would allow to get the gap fairly even all the way around the cowl/tub.
 
Mockup as to where I am with this. Have an issue with CCOT fender for passenger side and in contact with CCOT.

I'll have a complete photo gallery prepared from Step 1 to finalization. But for now, here is what this looks like.

I gave up fighting bolt alignment for the aluminum tub. Had to cut the cowl mounts to get the bolts out. That will require welding to repair. Have new pads for that. Put the cowl back where it was originally as didn't like the idea of NO bolt down for the cowl plus misalignment for the fenders and front apron. So, I have 5 of 5 bolts that line up and good enough. I'mm file the others to fit. When I moved the cowl, doors would not align properly, even though the tub was square with the frame. Now, the doors line up beautifully and I din't need spacers for the door latch.

I ground down all the interior welds on the tub where the top would fit. still have an issue with the passenger side, but close to resolving.

So, here are some pics.
IMG_0617.jpeg

IMG_0618.jpeg

Door alignment looks great to me.

IMG_0619.jpeg


IMG_0620.jpeg


More to come. Wife just said dinner is ready.
 
I reread my post. 5 of the 8 bolts lineup. Man, some terrible spelling as well. That's what I get for being in a hurry with my post.

I have a pivot point I need to run down for the top on the right side. If front lines up, then back doesn't and vice versa.

I did not have to pound the support rail to the outside in the corners. Grinding the welds down was sufficient. I also placed a straight edge along the rail. The right side needed some work with a body hammer to straighten out. That did improve the alignment, but a pivot point still exists.

Here's a couple more shots.

Passenger side door alignment. Interesting as it is better than the original alignment.

IMG_0621.jpeg


Rear shot showing more adjustment needed.

IMG_0622.jpeg
 
Alignment looks really good. By your description I'm not really sure still what you did to get the door alignment so nice. But it looks great. Dont forget to grind out a indentation for the ambulance door lower catch hook into the floor. I also cut a access hole in the aluminum boxed channel so I could install nuts for the catch hook bolts. Sounds like your a lot less frustrated and have a good grasp of the whole process. Hopefully you feel the tub was a worthwhile purchase.
 
Alignment looks really good. By your description I'm not really sure still what you did to get the door alignment so nice. But it looks great. Dont forget to grind out a indentation for the ambulance door lower catch hook into the floor. I also cut a access hole in the aluminum boxed channel so I could install nuts for the catch hook bolts. Sounds like your a lot less frustrated and have a good grasp of the whole process. Hopefully you feel the tub was a worthwhile purchase.
Thanks. Basically, just moved the cowl back to its original position and settled on getting only 5 of the 8 bolts in. Ground down all of the welds on the inner lip and everything else just fell in place. I was pleasantly surprised. I haven't even adjusted the doors and from what I'm seeing, will leave that alone.

Thanks for the tip on the ambulance lower door catch.

Finally got the right fender to fit. Still needs some tweaking, but know what to do. No response from CCOT, but could be for COVID-19 issues.

Yes, at this point, feel pretty good about the tub. Woin't have to add spacers for the front door latches either, so that is a nice surprise as well.

Today, I'm going to weld the cowl supports where I made the cuts to get the old bolts and pads out. Then install the new pads and bolt it down. After that, will drill the necessary holes, as needed, for roll bars, back seats, front seats, pan to cowl connection, etc. Will drill a hole under the pan upright support to the cowl so have two bolt connections for each side instead of just the one top connection. After that, remove everything, strip paint and make repairs. Will take the right top to the local body shop for repair of the rusted area in the corner. Ah yes, still have a long ways to go, but at least should be downhill from here. :)

I appreciate all of your help as well as from Steve at EBI.
 

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