EBI (Extreme Bend Inc)

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Anyone have any suggestions as to a good quality urethane paint that doesn't cost $400/gallon? Color Code for this rig is 309. I'm looking into Kirker, but they don't mix OEM colors. PPG and TCP Global run the $400 number. That doesn't include the reducer, clear coat, etc. I'd rather not have to mortgage the house for a paint job.
 
I'm thinking I'm actually going to do a 3M wrap on mine for that exact reason. I have not chased colors yet, but talked to a guy that has done a lot, and said the aluminum is super easy and looks great.
 
redeyeracing said:
I'm thinking I'm actually going to do a 3M wrap on mine for that exact reason. I have not chased colors yet, but talked to a guy that has done a lot, and said the aluminum is super easy and looks great.
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Hmm, just looked it up. Interesting. I'll need to do some more research, but thus far, definitely something to consider. Any suggestions your guy can share as to application would be appreciated.
 
SalmonMan said:
Anyone have any suggestions as to a good quality urethane paint that doesn't cost $400/gallon? Color Code for this rig is 309. I'm looking into Kirker, but they don't mix OEM colors. PPG and TCP Global run the $400 number. That doesn't include the reducer, clear coat, etc. I'd rather not have to mortgage the house for a paint job.
Click to expand...

Depends what finish you are looking for. You get what you pay for. The s*** ton of work you will need to fix a cheaper paint vs getting the best you can afford means less work after painting. Time is $. I have learnt when painting, get the best damn stuff you can afford.
 
Decent paint is expensive. Just part of restoring a vehicle. I guess you could go get some tractor paint from tractor supply. Its tempting to cheap out on the last bit of a restoration, but how much risk you want to take fixing it again in 3 or 4 years? Usually I just shell out the money and cry for a while. But have been happy I spent the money after a little time has gone by. I found a paint shop that let me do some of the prep so that cut cost a lot. Cheap paint jobs usually hurt the value of the vehicle significantly-like 50% to 70%-if you want to resell it. It will make the difference between a 40 that looks like its a 35k rig, or a 15k rig.
 
Dont cheap out now! You just dropped 4k on a tub make that baby shine!!!!
 
Iused them for my 1965 Chevy pickup and I use there Chassis black for my 40 chassis and running gear. I have used both there chassis black and underhood black for interior and engine parts. I will be using them for my 40 body paint as well. I use there single stage urethane.
 
Ok, update.

Things are going slower than originally thought. So far, spent about 30 hours removing the 10 layers of paint off the hood and still not done. Used aircraft paint stripper and that had minimal impact on some areas and did a great job on other areas - the underside of the hood. What was weird is the areas it did penetrate on the top came off in large pieces and snapped - like breaking plastic. Could an epoxy clear coat have been used over the paint? That's the only thing I can think of. I know the stripper did not work on the sealer coat, which was about 7 to 8 layers down. And rather than knocking out the minor dents, just slap bondo on them. Whatever! I'll work them out with my body hammers.

My 50 year old drill and DA sander gave up the ghost, so had to order new ones. Also ordered a bondo buster and that thing is awesome. I have a pretty hefty air compressor, but it can barely keep up with this sander. Probably a 2 stage air compressor would work better. Hey, my tools last me a long time. :)

Struggling with what to do with the hump on the driver's floor pan and how much to remove in order for the tub to set properly. Took a closer look at the old tranny cover and found some interesting things. Could be repaired, but may not be worth the effort.

Received the LizardSkin and gun, self etching primer (SEM), which I'll use for the underside. Decided to go ahead and prep the underneath once weather warms up and then place the tub on the frame and see what adjustments I'll need to make. I already ground off all unnecessary components on the cowling where the tub will bolt. Considerable rust but nothing serious, so will treat those areas.

Ordered Matrix Ultra High Build 2K primer MP3-HS and activator MA3-HS. Ordered Free Born Red from Tamco - HB Base Series 1:1 mix ratio and reducer slow HR1380. Tammy was a wealth of information. Will order the clear coat from her as well.

Decided to do the inside of the tub with Raptor Liner Tintable and will tint it with the Free Born Red. Saves some frustrations.

Haven't decided on the epoxy seal coat yet. May go with Tamco.

Rear wiring has been completely rewired with new wire and connectors. I decided to just throw the whole rear wiring assembly away and start from scratch. That simplified a whole lot of things. Front has had some rewire done. Anyway, ALL of the weird wiring by the PO has been completely eliminated, plus installed a towing harness. Damn, I actually have backup lights now and the towing lights all work, which the old one did not.

I'm thinking of a way to assemble photos so as not to have a ton of photos posted here. I think I have a solution, so will see. Also, can better describe as to what is going on.

So, until next time, enjoy your FJ's on the road as I'm jealous right now as mine is in pieces. :)
 
Post pics of where the tub meet the cowl and how it connects
 
Hi everyone,

Well, I'm pretty much ready to start reassembling this thing. Just need some 70 degree days so that the LizardSkin works properly. I don't think 55 is going to cut it, nor exactly safe with a fire going in the wood stove. Will sand blast some smaller pieces in the meantime. Continue working on other body parts as I wait.

Was able to epoxy coat the floor pans in the cowling. Need to weld a patch to replace the hump on the driver's side. All cut out and ready to go. Will submit pics tomorrow of that aspect.

Have all my primers, base coat and clear coats with associated hardness and reducers.

New spray gun arrived today and a used Binks Model 7 is on the way.

Enjoy the weekend!
 
Well the typed updates are great but we demand pics of the progress man!!!
 
Ok, have some interesting problems with this tub. Must have been made in one of the S. American Countries. Help and suggestions welcomed. I added another pad to the rear which helped the gasp, but..... This is the same for both sides.
IMG_0568.webp


Here is a photo of the underneath showing contact of the tub with the existing floor pan. No room to go lower.

IMG_0571.webp


Shots showing bolt holes misalignment, except for ONE...
IMG_0572.webp
IMG_0576.webp
IMG_0577.webp
 
Ok, how and the hell could this be screwed up? Not sure what to do about this. This is a shot of the top installed by the front floor. Can we get a bigger gap!

IMG_0578.webp


Right now, I am not impressed with these tubs. How do you not align bolt holes? How do you not align connections for the hardtop? Here's another shot of interesting problems...

IMG_0569.webp


Interesting alignment, and no, I cannot lower this thing. I also added two pads to the rear which seemed to lessen the gap at the top. What is interesting is the driver's door does align up good. Haven't installed the passenger side. Top sucks big time as noted in the photo above.

Sooooo, anyone have any suggestions?????

Pissed off in Oregon.
 
SalmonMan said:
Ok, how and the hell could this be screwed up? Not sure what to do about this. This is a shot of the top installed by the front floor. Can we get a bigger gap!

View attachment 2245199

Right now, I am not impressed with these tubs. How do you not align bolt holes? How do you not align connections for the hardtop? Here's another shot of interesting problems...

View attachment 2245200

Interesting alignment, and no, I cannot lower this thing. I also added two pads to the rear which seemed to lessen the gap at the top. What is interesting is the driver's door does align up good. Haven't installed the passenger side. Top sucks big time as noted in the photo above.

Sooooo, anyone have any suggestions?????

Pissed off in Oregon.
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It's a aftermarket part, which means it wont just bolt up perfectly typically. It will take some wrestling. I tried to post a lot of details on alignment in my build thread. Loosen the cowl body mount bolts, disconnect the front fenders from the cowl too. Take out the body mount bolts for the aqualu. Use big c clamps to hold things as u line it up instead of the bolts. The top sides need a 1/4" rubber strip between the tub and the sides for the hard top. I bought some on ebay and used hole punch in a drill to make bolt holes in the rubber. This is the most time consuming part-alignment. Take your time. Look at my build thread for help. Use whatever body mount pads u need to to get it aligned, which means u may need to order different thickness pads. Use washers for now for mock up instead of rubber pads. Remember your mating a thick walled aluminum tub to thin sheet metal. It should turn out pretty good when your done.
 
Whats the other side of the hard top look like? Mght just need a bit of tweaking. Call Aqualu before you start ranting here. Maybe they have some tips or ideas.

Is your cowl straight? Alot more things to look at.
 
White Stripe said:
It's a aftermarket part, which means it wont just bolt up perfectly typically. It will take some wrestling. I tried to post a lot of details on alignment in my build thread. Loosen the cowl body mount bolts, disconnect the front fenders from the cowl too. Take out the body mount bolts for the aqualu. Use big c clamps to hold things as u line it up instead of the bolts. The top sides need a 1/4" rubber strip between the tub and the sides for the hard top. I bought some on ebay and used hole punch in a drill to make bolt holes in the rubber. This is the most time consuming part-alignment. Take your time. Look at my build thread for help. Use whatever body mount pads u need to to get it aligned, which means u may need to order different thickness pads. Use washers for now for mock up instead of rubber pads. Remember your mating a thick walled aluminum tub to thin sheet metal. It should turn out pretty good when your done.
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Ok. From what I can figure, I'm going to have to cut the tube for the top down the middle in order for it to line-up. Right now, the tube is all the way against the aluminum tub vertical channel and can't be moved outward. How did you rectify that?
 
Varty Yo said:
Whats the other side of the hard top look like? Mght just need a bit of tweaking. Call Aqualu before you start ranting here. Maybe they have some tips or ideas.

Is your cowl straight? Alot more things to look at.
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Cowl is straight. I installed the passenger door to see what it would look like and lined up nicely. No way the top side panel is going to fit unless I either cut the tube that slides into the tub off or cut it down the middle in order to get more room to move it to the outside of the tub and line up.

I'm going to call Steve Monday morning and see what he suggests. I'll also try what White Stripe suggested. Hopefully, those bolts aren't rusted up.
 
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