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firetruck41 said:
Welcome to the board Brother Kai! You gotta come back and contribute some more, your LC looks great!

Another Firefighter with a Land Cruiser..... we have around 10 cruiser heads in our dept.
 
kai38 said:
Thats my 80 with the roof rack

Welcome!

What tires are on your 80 in the first picture in this thread?
 
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Cruiserhead05 said:
I got an email back from him today.

To do a full length 80 series rack with 4 inch sides as opposed to the 6 inch sides pictured above, is $375 + $68 for greyhound shipping.

$443.00 total
, then you need at least three yakima/thule bars and gutter mounts.

Still not a bad deal though

Thats a good deal! Does it mount with ubolt type brackets to the thule or yak bars?
 
You can use u-bolts for either Yakima or Thule crossbars. On Thule systems I prefer to drill straight through the floor support bars and Thule crossbars then bolt them down with stainless buttonhead bolts and nylon locking nuts, that makes for a really low profile and super strong intallation.

Note: the price quoted above ($375.00 + $68.00 Greyhound shipping) is for a 72" X 48" X 6" (or 4") rack which is the same size as the rack on kai38's cool lookin' black Cruiser.
buttonhead.webp
 
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roof rack lengths

Just looking for some insight or opinions on rack lengths.

Do the full length racks render your moonroof useless?

What lengths do you all prefer and why?

Thanks,

Chris
 
Webster said:
Do the full length racks render your moonroof useless?
The African Outback Rack sold by Slee Offroad has a swing-up hatch that allows access to the rack through the sunroof. However, with any full-length rack, the wind noise above 40mph will have you closing the roof pretty quickly.

At trail speeds, there is no noise. :D

Webster said:
What lengths do you all prefer and why?
Full Length for the capacity.

I wanted to be able to carry as much junk on top as possible. If I want to sleep inside, I can throw everthing up there. If I want to go camping for a week I can carry everything that we will need. If I want to carry 2 adults + 5 scouts and all our summer camp gear then it can go on top. If I want to add a RTT at some time then there is room. If I am lucky enough to do a 10-day Baja adventure then I can carry a 2nd spare and plenty of fuel and water for the trip.

-B-
 
having made a few of these, a little imput. That looks like 1/2 square tube, which will hold, but needs quite a bit of cross-bracing. the key is the floor and the number of load bars when using this type. I can't see a floor in the pics, so I would be careful. Add in some 1/2" plywood for a floor and you'd be good, or 1/8th inch diamond plate al.

I found max spacing to be around 10x10" on 1/2 with a 1/8th in al floor to be a minimum rule. You will through more stuff up there than you realize.
 
Webster said:
John,

Would you be interested in making another rack. Do you have pictures of the ones you made?

Chris


Not really. Until I move to a new location, my studio/shop is not equipped any longer to handle this type of stuff. Also, the type I make are really not suited to 80's, as I integrate the mounts to the rack, and frankly, I don't think the 80's gutters are strong enough. That plastic edge is wimpy.

If anyone is looking for a inexpensive, yet VERY functional rack, I would recommend the surco one. smallish in width, but very good for the price. They are alluminum, so they are quite light.

Anyone looking for a serious rack should look at the ones that Christo sells or a con-ferr with the bull dog mounts.
 
z80 said:
Not really. Until I move to a new location, my studio/shop is not equipped any longer to handle this type of stuff. Also, the type I make are really not suited to 80's, as I integrate the mounts to the rack, and frankly, I don't think the 80's gutters are strong enough. That plastic edge is wimpy..

The gutter is steel and is only covered by that plastic...not wimpy. But I do see your point in not making racks for the eighty. The gutters aren't straight like on a 60, but have a slight curve to them. You'd have to compensate somehow ..making it a pain in the ass.
 
sleeoffroad said:
There is metal under them there plastic trim pieces. :D Just cut a 80 in half and you will see :cool:

yeah yeah yeah... speaking of space, I have some stuff I need to get back to you.


what I mean is I don't like the way the gutters are shaped. If the plastic breaks off, you are left with no vertical leading edge, which is more clamping surface. Just personal preference.

curves aren't the problem. it's the shop space. Too many tools, not enough space.
 
z80 said:
having made a few of these, a little imput. That looks like 1/2 square tube, which will hold, but needs quite a bit of cross-bracing. the key is the floor and the number of load bars when using this type. I can't see a floor in the pics, so I would be careful. Add in some 1/2" plywood for a floor and you'd be good, or 1/8th inch diamond plate al.

I found max spacing to be around 10x10" on 1/2 with a 1/8th in al floor to be a minimum rule. You will through more stuff up there than you realize.


You can't see the floor because the rack is fully loaded across it. I weld in crossbars at 6" OC or less and they are welded into the front to rear crossbars making the entire frame of the rack into a big truss structure. Feel free to read up on a bunch more of me blowing my own horn about how tough the racks are at my current ebay auction at
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8046970029

which shows a rack I loaded up with 1280 pounds of cinderblocks to get some fully loaded pics out of the deal. I could have loaded more but I was sick of moving those damn blocks around :)
 

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