Easy method to get upside down races out

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Joined
Nov 25, 2019
Threads
10
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Location
Phoenix, AZ
Hey fellas,

Figured I would document this to help out some other noobies. Last night I was rebuilding my front axle for the first time, and accidentally drove both trunnion bearing races in upside down. Doh! I even tried to picture the bearings going in the race in my head but had a case of dyslexia and they ended up upside down anyways.

The problem when putting the races in upside down is that the wider end of the race now sits totally flush with the notches in the knuckle that are used to pound out the races when replacing them. It's almost impossible to get anything in the notch to catch the edge of the race. I could get a flat screwdriver to barely catch but it would slip with the tiniest bit of force. You also can't really get a socket in there to pound it out because the knuckle opening on the inside is smaller than the narrow end of the race.

I searched on mud for a while, and found other people had success with a 30mm socket, chisels, propane torches (to heat the knuckle ball), dremels, etc. Well the chisel wasn't working for me. And I could not figure out how to get the socket to work since the knuckle side is too narrow.

What worked: I found that the open end of a 21mm wrench fit through the notches in the knuckle (used to pound out the old races) but was wide enough to stop in the race. Just pound on the closed end of the wrench to get them out! Now unfortunately during my efforts I found that my Klein screwdriver tips are a stronger material than the race, so I'll need new races.

Hope this helps someone else who might make the same mistake!

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Is this because, being upside down, there isn't enough of an edge to catch the corner of a long brass drift rod, from the inside direction?
 
Is this because, being upside down, there isn't enough of an edge to catch the corner of a long brass drift rod, from the inside direction?
Correct
 
Is this because, being upside down, there isn't enough of an edge to catch the corner of a long brass drift rod, from the inside direction?
Yep. Virtually zero edge. Every chisel I tried (about 5) instanly shattered the corner of the chisel and rounded it out.
 
Ahh. I see. I feel your pain. Doh! hate when that happens. At least you found a practical recovery method.
 
Hey fellas,

Figured I would document this to help out some other noobies. Last night I was rebuilding my front axle for the first time, and accidentally drove both trunnion bearing races in upside down. Doh! I even tried to picture the bearings going in the race in my head but had a case of dyslexia and they ended up upside down anyways.

The problem when putting the races in upside down is that the wider end of the race now sits totally flush with the notches in the knuckle that are used to pound out the races when replacing them. It's almost impossible to get anything in the notch to catch the edge of the race. I could get a flat screwdriver to barely catch but it would slip with the tiniest bit of force. You also can't really get a socket in there to pound it out because the knuckle opening on the inside is smaller than the narrow end of the race.

I searched on mud for a while, and found other people had success with a 30mm socket, chisels, propane torches (to heat the knuckle ball), dremels, etc. Well the chisel wasn't working for me. And I could not figure out how to get the socket to work since the knuckle side is too narrow.

What worked: I found that the open end of a 21mm wrench fit through the notches in the knuckle (used to pound out the old races) but was wide enough to stop in the race. Just pound on the closed end of the wrench to get them out! Now unfortunately during my efforts I found that my Klein screwdriver tips are a stronger material than the race, so I'll need new races.

Hope this helps someone else who might make the same mistake!

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This post absolutely saved my bacon! I seriously almost started crying when I realized I'd put the lower knuckle bearing race in upside down, lol (manly tears, of course) Thankfully a quick search brought me to your post! Sure, I had to make a quick run to Autozone to snag a 21mm wrench, but the relief I felt when the race popped out with one quick mallet tap more than made up for that time and $$. And since I also benefitted from your trial and error, the race was undamaged. Flipped it and installed properly and continued with the job.

Thanks!
 
I used a dremel and notched the inside of the races. I tried everything before I resorted to that method. Great work thinking outside the box to solve this issue! Glad I’m not the only one👍🏽
 
I am one who used harbor freight chisels to tap mine out after installing the race upside down. The cheap chisels are soft enough they deformed and didn’t hurt the race. I like the wrench idea better.
 
I am one who used harbor freight chisels to tap mine out after installing the race upside down. The cheap chisels are soft enough they deformed and didn’t hurt the race. I like the wrench idea better.
I tried the harbor freight chisels and I couldn't catch the edge of the race. The protruding edge was almost perfectly flush with the notch in the knuckle. Whenever I did manage to get it to catch, it would shatter the edge of the chisel.
 
I have had good luck removing races by welding a bead around the inside of the race then let it cool. Every time I have done this it has shrunk the race enough to just about fall out.
 
I tried the harbor freight chisels and I couldn't catch the edge of the race. The protruding edge was almost perfectly flush with the notch in the knuckle. Whenever I did manage to get it to catch, it would shatter the edge of the chisel.

I was also unable to catch the edge so I tapped the inside face of the race where the bearings would ride. Angling the chisel while hammering it was enough to “grab” enough of the race to slowly tap out.
 
I was also unable to catch the edge so I tapped the inside face of the race where the bearings would ride. Angling the chisel while hammering it was enough to “grab” enough of the race to slowly tap out.
That method was futile for me. I must’ve wasted several hours trying different chisels, flat-heads, and other random tools. There just was zero area to catch the race.
 
For future reference I wouldn’t label it as easy Or quick but you can use a flat blade to hit the outside perimeter of the race still protruding from the swivel ball (the base of the edge that should be driven into the recess) and alternate 180* locations and walk the race out without ever touching the bearing surface. Not easy or quick but had a fellow mudder @cruiserman drive mine in upside down on one side helping me on his first rebuild and he was able to slowly walk it back out.
 
For future reference I wouldn’t label it as easy Or quick but you can use a flat blade to hit the outside perimeter of the race still protruding from the swivel ball (the base of the edge that should be driven into the recess) and alternate 180* locations and walk the race out without ever touching the bearing surface. Not easy or quick but had a fellow mudder @cruiserman drive mine in upside down on one side helping me on his first rebuild and he was able to slowly walk it back out.
Some people's race outer edge must have been more accessible than others. Literally impossible to catch the perimeter edge in my case. Much easier to just get the 21mm wrench and pound it out in 2 hits!
 
Maybe I shouldn't ask....but did no one notice the direction the OLD races were facing when removing them?

I know...I know....people make mistakes, that is not lost on me (made my share). But we have 4 people having done this in one short thread (so far). :wrench:

Glad a solution was found and happy it was shared here though.
 
Cmon man, it was my first time. I overlooked that they were tapered. Last time I’ll make the same mistake though 🤘🏽
 
Cmon man, it was my first time. I overlooked that they were tapered. Last time I’ll make the same mistake though 🤘🏽

I get it. Just picking at everyone. I put wheel bearing races in backwards on the front hubs of my truck when I was 17 (first time to do it and truck had sat a couple of days with everything apart, so I am guilty myself.

Even now (50 years later)...I have to take cell phone pics of certain things to refer to later. Because at my age CRS sets in (Can't Remember Sh_t). :beer:
 
Hey fellas,

Figured I would document this to help out some other noobies. Last night I was rebuilding my front axle for the first time, and accidentally drove both trunnion bearing races in upside down. Doh! I even tried to picture the bearings going in the race in my head but had a case of dyslexia and they ended up upside down anyways.

The problem when putting the races in upside down is that the wider end of the race now sits totally flush with the notches in the knuckle that are used to pound out the races when replacing them. It's almost impossible to get anything in the notch to catch the edge of the race. I could get a flat screwdriver to barely catch but it would slip with the tiniest bit of force. You also can't really get a socket in there to pound it out because the knuckle opening on the inside is smaller than the narrow end of the race.

I searched on mud for a while, and found other people had success with a 30mm socket, chisels, propane torches (to heat the knuckle ball), dremels, etc. Well the chisel wasn't working for me. And I could not figure out how to get the socket to work since the knuckle side is too narrow.

What worked: I found that the open end of a 21mm wrench fit through the notches in the knuckle (used to pound out the old races) but was wide enough to stop in the race. Just pound on the closed end of the wrench to get them out! Now unfortunately during my efforts I found that my Klein screwdriver tips are a stronger material than the race, so I'll need new races.

Hope this helps someone else who might make the same mistake!

View attachment 2338588View attachment 2338589View attachment 2338590
Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!
 

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