Rare find on that card there, would've been left there from the factory. Say, what are you doing with the rest of the stuff on that chassis? I'm after the complete proportion valve setup and it looks like that chassis has it.
Earl - my HJ47 Project
- Thread starter SOOT
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #42
Rare find on that card there, would've been left there from the factory. Say, what are you doing with the rest of the stuff on that chassis? I'm after the complete proportion valve setup and it looks like that chassis has it.
herbs, yes that chassis does have a complete setup but sorry mate that one is staying on that chassis as it is the the one that I am using for this build, I will keep my eye out for another setup when I visit the local wreckers if you like.
No problem, they're a bit hard to find as '83-'84 model wrecks are somewhat rare. I'm keeping my ear to the ground as I need these bits to complete the brake upgrade on my '81 FJ 45. Good luck with the project.
- Joined
- Sep 7, 2004
- Threads
- 510
- Messages
- 2,150
Cab
What's the stats on the new cab that you pulled. Is it any better. The corner is not a problem, easy fix. What ever you do, and I'm sure you will is cut the crap steel out of anywhere you can that needs replacing and weld in new, no body filler if you can help it. Only way to go.
When I was in Afghanistan a guy there had a Toyota nice 4x4 PU that he was pretty prod of but the body filler from a light crash was shrinking and cracking from being 1/8" or so thick, it looked like well you know. I assume this was mostly from the 120+ temps and humidity's. Since then I have tried to stay away form using fillers, just the surface glazing filler. What is the humidity like in your area?
That card looks to be an line build parts card from the factory assembly line. The guy that possibly built the dash area may of lost it. Has the old punch outs in the card.
Any word on the frame reinforcement brace on the truck whit the tray?
Keep the good work up and have a
when tooooo hot.
What's the stats on the new cab that you pulled. Is it any better. The corner is not a problem, easy fix. What ever you do, and I'm sure you will is cut the crap steel out of anywhere you can that needs replacing and weld in new, no body filler if you can help it. Only way to go.
When I was in Afghanistan a guy there had a Toyota nice 4x4 PU that he was pretty prod of but the body filler from a light crash was shrinking and cracking from being 1/8" or so thick, it looked like well you know. I assume this was mostly from the 120+ temps and humidity's. Since then I have tried to stay away form using fillers, just the surface glazing filler. What is the humidity like in your area?
That card looks to be an line build parts card from the factory assembly line. The guy that possibly built the dash area may of lost it. Has the old punch outs in the card.
Any word on the frame reinforcement brace on the truck whit the tray?
Keep the good work up and have a
when tooooo hot.
- Thread starter
- #45
love3fly,
Made a quick visit to the farm this morning before it got hot. I had a look at the 47 frame and it has the the reinforcement brace just forward of the rear cab mount, so I would say its factory as it is properly formed around the section underneth. Also looked at the 45 frame and it has some reinforcement but not as much as the 47. Hope this answers your question.
Below is the 45 showing less reinforcement.
Better get out to the shed to get some more done on the 47.
- Joined
- Sep 7, 2004
- Threads
- 510
- Messages
- 2,150
Got it
Yes, mine looks similar to yours, if that rig had a tray on it at one time I am thinking that this is done by the folks who install the trays to reinforce that area due to the user increasing the loads. That's my guess as I would expect it to would look better (welds) if from Toyota factory. Thank you for that info it's good to know that other rigs have it as I was thinking this rig I have may of had a problem at one time. Cool.
Time for a
Yes, mine looks similar to yours, if that rig had a tray on it at one time I am thinking that this is done by the folks who install the trays to reinforce that area due to the user increasing the loads. That's my guess as I would expect it to would look better (welds) if from Toyota factory. Thank you for that info it's good to know that other rigs have it as I was thinking this rig I have may of had a problem at one time. Cool.
Time for a
- Thread starter
- #47
Progress!
Spent some time removing and labeling all the switches/relays on the dash and surrounds, removed the pedal box, ash tray, steering wheel, heater box, foot kick vents, door hinges and pretty much everything else that was attached to the cab. Then I removed the wiring harness.
Then I turned my attention to the black tar stuff that is stuck to the floor pans. A heat gun and a scraper worked but it took some time, but its all off.
The cab looks to be in pretty good shape.It is better then the other cab, it does have some rust spots to cut out and patch up but a heap less then the other cab I was working on. Plus it has a tacho and a clock.
Spent some time removing and labeling all the switches/relays on the dash and surrounds, removed the pedal box, ash tray, steering wheel, heater box, foot kick vents, door hinges and pretty much everything else that was attached to the cab. Then I removed the wiring harness.
Then I turned my attention to the black tar stuff that is stuck to the floor pans. A heat gun and a scraper worked but it took some time, but its all off.
The cab looks to be in pretty good shape.
It is better then the other cab, it does have some rust spots to cut out and patch up but a heap less then the other cab I was working on. Plus it has a tacho and a clock.
- Thread starter
- #48
I did manage to slap some paint stripper on the cab. I plastered it everywhere, waited 20 minutes as directed, washed it off gently with the garden hose first so paint stripper didn't go flying all over the place not to metion on me, it burns so bad when it gets on your skin and then got stuck into it with a pressure washer and it worked great. Paint peeled off nicely, not all of it came off but it will save heaps on time on the grinder
I can't seem to load any photos at the moment,
I did take some when I finished so I will load the when I get another chance.
I can't seem to load any photos at the moment,
I did take some when I finished so I will load the when I get another chance.
That card you found is super cool. Please, DO NOT THROW IT AWAY!!
- Thread starter
- #50
After two rounds with paint stripper and the pressure washer. It worked well and left the remaining paint quite soft, very easy to remove with a soft wire wheel on a drill or grinder.
Only surface rust around the rear cab seam, pretty happy with the condition of the cab
Only surface rust around the rear cab seam, pretty happy with the condition of the cab
- Thread starter
- #51
- Joined
- Sep 7, 2004
- Threads
- 510
- Messages
- 2,150
SOOT, your blowing my mine, you are all over that rig.
You have the Land Cruiser fever real bad.
I have seen it before it starts with just a vision then dreams that seem so real while you sleep, parts-wheels-doors-glass-seats-tools-paint stripper, and then a robotic visit to the land of the Land cruiser body's were the vision is no longer a dream it becomes reality.
It a sickness you have to control or you will turn into a feverish, red eyed, drooling badly dressed Toyota vampire that lives but for not one thing...........................
a nice cold one when done.
Don't forget to wash your hands.
Nice
- Thread starter
- #53
your blowing my mine, you are all over that rig.
You have the Land Cruiser fever real bad.
I have seen it before it starts with just a vision then dreams that seem so real while you sleep, parts-wheels-doors-glass-seats-tools-paint stripper, and then a robotic visit to the land of the Land cruiser body's were the vision is no longer a dream it becomes reality.
It a sickness you have to control or you will turn into a feverish, red eyed, drooling badly dressed Toyota vampire that lives but for not one thing...........................
a nice cold one when done.
Don't forget to wash your hands.
Nice
I asked my wife to check my temp after I looked at your post. She replyed "Your burning up! you must have a fever", ummmm
Landcruiser Fever I thought to myself. Oh well, all I can taste is old Landcruiser paint dust and I think I am starting to like it. At times like this there is only one thing to do
, go sand some more paint off the old 47.
That cab really cleaned up nice!
- Joined
- Sep 7, 2004
- Threads
- 510
- Messages
- 2,150
Just drink the beer.
Do you have a friend that may have a small portable sand blaster that you could borrow for a day to blast out those areas of patchy rust especially in the hard to get at corner areas or rent one maybe. That will be a big help in keeping any rust at bay in the future. As I may of said I used POR15 under and inside of my cab to help guard against any possible rust infections coming back. Yes that cab is looking good. Any bad areas?
It took me four weeks of work getting my bed to were it was ready. I had minor areas were rust had pitted the surface, that's were the blasting worked its magic. A tube of good seam sealant also is a must for the underside and inside seems to include under the dash along the windshield area and inside the door bulk supports. Its all about the prep work that makes it look good and last for 20-30 more years.
Keep the work up.
Do you have a friend that may have a small portable sand blaster that you could borrow for a day to blast out those areas of patchy rust especially in the hard to get at corner areas or rent one maybe. That will be a big help in keeping any rust at bay in the future. As I may of said I used POR15 under and inside of my cab to help guard against any possible rust infections coming back. Yes that cab is looking good. Any bad areas?
It took me four weeks of work getting my bed to were it was ready. I had minor areas were rust had pitted the surface, that's were the blasting worked its magic. A tube of good seam sealant also is a must for the underside and inside seems to include under the dash along the windshield area and inside the door bulk supports. Its all about the prep work that makes it look good and last for 20-30 more years.
Keep the work up.
- Thread starter
- #56
Thanks D'Animal, got a little bit to do now to get it to where I want it but I am not in any hurry---yet
Then I've got some small rust spots to cut out and patch up, I am looking forward to doing the repairs, should be fun.
- Thread starter
- #57
Just drink the beer.
Do you have a friend that may have a small portable sand blaster that you could borrow for a day to blast out those areas of patchy rust especially in the hard to get at corner areas or rent one maybe. That will be a big help in keeping any rust at bay in the future. As I may of said I used POR15 under and inside of my cab to help guard against any possible rust infections coming back. Yes that cab is looking good. Any bad areas?
It took me four weeks of work getting my bed to were it was ready. I had minor areas were rust had pitted the surface, that's were the blasting worked its magic. A tube of good seam sealant also is a must for the underside and inside seems to include under the dash along the windshield area and inside the door bulk supports. Its all about the prep work that makes it look good and last for 20-30 more years.
Keep the work up.
I am looking at buying a 10 gal portable sand blaster soon rather then renting one as I can keep it for next time
Need to do some more research on that one first. Not really any bad areas, just some small areas that I will be cutting out and patching.
Seam sealant will be a must, I want to keep as much moisture out of those seams as possible. Did you use anything to treat possible rust in the seams and behind panels that you couldn't get too or see? If there is something I can use I think I want to use it.
Did you spray the inside of your cab with some sort of bed liner, as well as the POR-15.
I have seen some other rigs here on mud with that and I was thinking of doing the same for durability as the floor is a high traffic area.
- Thread starter
- #58
Here are some photos of the small rust areas on the cabs rear flange where the lower and upper rear cab join. I plan to remove these small sections and replace with new steel. I will start here as it needs to be done and won't be seen once its assembled so it will be a good area to hone my welding/grinding.
- Thread starter
- #59
Then I will move onto this spot in the lefthand side floor pan. I think I will machine a die to form the shape. Start off with the smaller body repairs and move onto the larger ones as my skills improve.
- Joined
- Sep 7, 2004
- Threads
- 510
- Messages
- 2,150
SOOT, it seems as you have some surface pitting rust in the same areas as I had.
If you look closely to my photos you see the same pitted rusted area with repairs ( light filler). What you have to do is take a small pointed tool (a screw driver will do) and push in, on, and around the rusted area, like your digging around to see if it will brake thought the metal. Do not be light on it, push as hard as you can. If it brakes though then it is definitely going to need cutting out. If its a small pin hole or holes you may be able to salvage that area without cutting it out. In those cases you can use some quality fillers that not only fill the small hole but will keep the rust rot from coming back and that is the most important part of all of this hole thing. If the medal is thinned out due to surface loss from flakes of rust being lost from the blaster and it is an area that takes a load i.e. brace or chair then cut, if not you can decide whether to just use a small amount of filler.That's were the baster comes into play. If the rust is not all gone it will be back and you are at it again. Kill that rust. Cutting and welding in new panels is the best way to go, but as said if it is small enough and cleaned up you can sometime eliminate the extra work with some good products. I used POR putty paste for the small holes and the pinholes on my pitted ares. This stuff when dry is like steel and hard as hell to sand but does a excellent job of keeping the rust from coming back. Of course a very small amount of body filler is to be used on top then a good DTM (Direct To Metal) epoxy primer. DO NOT cheap body fillers as they will suck the moister into that repair and blister latter on. Us quality.
I did use POR15 black paint on the underside and floor of my cab. Then I used a top coat on that, then the underside cot a shot of undercoating and the inside got a shot of bed liner. I hope it will last 50 years. I am not sure what is available in oz as POR or ? but again use the best you can find.
My 10 cents worth.
If you look closely to my photos you see the same pitted rusted area with repairs ( light filler). What you have to do is take a small pointed tool (a screw driver will do) and push in, on, and around the rusted area, like your digging around to see if it will brake thought the metal. Do not be light on it, push as hard as you can. If it brakes though then it is definitely going to need cutting out. If its a small pin hole or holes you may be able to salvage that area without cutting it out. In those cases you can use some quality fillers that not only fill the small hole but will keep the rust rot from coming back and that is the most important part of all of this hole thing. If the medal is thinned out due to surface loss from flakes of rust being lost from the blaster and it is an area that takes a load i.e. brace or chair then cut, if not you can decide whether to just use a small amount of filler.That's were the baster comes into play. If the rust is not all gone it will be back and you are at it again. Kill that rust. Cutting and welding in new panels is the best way to go, but as said if it is small enough and cleaned up you can sometime eliminate the extra work with some good products. I used POR putty paste for the small holes and the pinholes on my pitted ares. This stuff when dry is like steel and hard as hell to sand but does a excellent job of keeping the rust from coming back. Of course a very small amount of body filler is to be used on top then a good DTM (Direct To Metal) epoxy primer. DO NOT cheap body fillers as they will suck the moister into that repair and blister latter on. Us quality.
I did use POR15 black paint on the underside and floor of my cab. Then I used a top coat on that, then the underside cot a shot of undercoating and the inside got a shot of bed liner. I hope it will last 50 years. I am not sure what is available in oz as POR or ? but again use the best you can find.
My 10 cents worth.