E-Locker Question (1 Viewer)

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Cube Dweller

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Does anyone have a FSM that includes the rear elocker 3rd? I finally got the circuit wired up last night and it works, but I don't think the locked indicator switch is working. When the locker is locked there is not continuity across the two leads on the locked indicator switch. There should be, right?

If anyone is willing to scan the pages from the FSM covering the 3rd, I would be most appreciative. I bought the FSM for my rig but it is pre-locker.

thanks
tony
 
Here is the best one I have seen and the one I used, worked flawless...
From here: http://67.122.16.97/carterman/4runner/mods/locker/

circuit3.gif
 
Thanks, that's the one I used, his diagram is correct. I'm trying to get his later circuit working that has the transistors in it to use as "in between state" indicators.

But I'm looking for FSM info around servicing the dif itself...if I need to replace the locked indicator switch, what do I need to know...does the locker need to be locked, unlocked, etc.
 
So, Diesel, did you use his later one that included the in between indicators? I bought some transistors and tried to breadboard the circuit but I can't get it to work. Also, does it make sense that the locked indicator switch should have continuity across the leads when the dif is locked?

thanks
tony
 
Try these docs:

http://www.yankeetoys.org/Docs.htm

It actually doesn't matter whether the diff is locked or not on that switch. The switch is about $65, BTW.

The switch is NO, it closes when the diff is locked, so it sounds like yours is working properly.
 
Many thanks KLF. I think we're saying the same thing- I wrote "the switch should have continuity across it when the dif is locked" and you wrote "the switch is NO, it closes when the dif is locked".

I''ll lock the dif tonight, unplug my harness and check it at the switch leads directly. Probably another one for C-Dan.

tony
 
By "switch", I assume you are talking about the "locked" detection switch that is screwed into the top of the diff, above the actuator motor.

Be very careful with that switch, the plastic part that has the pins inside it is very fragile. I actually broke mine, the diff rolled over on the bench while I was working on it and it snapped that plastic part off. I have a gob of silicone on it now, I'm too darned cheap to buy another one.
 

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