E-Locker Actuator (2 Viewers)

[99RRdifflock]

Hey All,

First Post, I have tried to search with not a lot of luck. I have a 1999 4Runner (why I am in the forum). My Actuator is toast. Corroded and the cast is cracked. I need a replacement, but cannot find information on which AISIN part to buy?

SAT-008 - Shows a fitment for 1995-2015 Tacomas
SAT-009 - Shows a fitment for 1996-2009 4Runners.

The 009 is 2x the price as the 008 - but I cannot see what the difference is? There was somebody who noted that a 008 fits, but he has a blinking light for the RRDIFF lock light.

Can i use the 008 for my 4runner?

 

[gnob]

they're all the same part.
probably us build vs Japan.
numbers just supercede.

they all wire the same and use the same controller. blinking light has to do with the separate locked indicator switch, not the actuator.

41450-35010 taco/na
41450-35030 jap
41450-35031 current

https://partsouq.com/en/search/all?q=41450-35031

 

[99RRdifflock]

Just moved the locker pin manually. Yes! The light is solid with rrdifflock. So I ordered SAT-008.

Now I’m going to clean the mating surface and paint with POR-15 in the rusty crap around there.

Fingers crossed, will update.

 

[pappy]

Rockauto.com has them. Around $410 for the 4R. The Taco and 4R are different part numbers. There is a little difference that age doesn't let me recall. They do interchange, and I think has something to do with how the harness routes, IIRC. The Taco actuator is way cheaper, $335.

 

[99RRdifflock]

To clarify - when I get the part I install it in the LOCKED position, right?

 

[99RRdifflock]

I bought the AISIN SAT-008 from Amazon for 400 ish bucks shipped will arrive tomorrow.

 

[gnob]

To clarify - when I get the part I install it in the LOCKED position, right?

it doesn't really matter. just make sure the actual collar is all the way in or out or you'll end up with the flashing light.

 

[99RRdifflock]

Might be a dumb question. Should I put POR-15 on the actuator side surface before mating them? Might help prevent some of the oxidation? I cleaned up the differential side and put POR-15 on that side.

 

[99RRdifflock]

Got it in! Works 100 %. For anybody that searches this thread for question in the future a few notes:

1) The retaining bolts need to come completely out to line it up and get it ON.
2) The lower retaining bolt is open (?) to the differential, so it will leak oil when you remove it. I did not drain my diff to do this repair. Not sure you need to, but I used a small piece of cloth to stop the leak, lined up the actuator and got it almost on, then pulled the cloth out, and got the pin in before it leaked.
3) For 1999 (3rd Gen Runners) AISIN SAT-008 works perfectly. The difference between SAT-009 (the part that AISIN claims is for 4runners) and SAT-008 is the way the plug and vent route - but it does not make 1 difference to the 4runner. Its actually better then the original part. You can get the AISIN SAT-008 part on Amazon for like $450 CAD shipped (i got in in less than 30 hours).
4) I used POR-15 to cover the mating surface, hopefully that will make sure that it will never oxidize and freeze on again.

 

[99RRdifflock]

Hey Anybody,

Another question for those who have done this.....

The retaining bolts for the Actuator - the double threaded ones....Do they have a bottom? ie. do they bottom out in the differential housing or are they held on with backwards pressure from the attaching nut (if that makes sense). Mine seem to want to spin and thread forever into the differential. And when I took it off, there was definately threads sticking out - but one of them I have the nut basically at the edge of the threads (if that makes sense).

Thanks

 

[gnob]

thanks for the update.
the studs are double ended threads. so yes, they have a stop. new studs come with sealer on them.

 

[99RRdifflock]

thanks for the update.
the studs are double ended threads. so yes, they have a stop. new studs come with sealer on them.

then how do i get them to "bottom out". I tried the two nut trick but there isnt enough room when they are "bottomed" to crack the second nut and get them both off to re-attach with a washer?

 

[pappy]

then how do i get them to "bottom out". I tried the two nut trick but there isnt enough room when they are "bottomed" to crack the second nut and get them both off to re-attach with a washer?

Buddy, we need pictures here. I have no clue what you are talking about. The long studs that hold the actuator on are only threaded part way. Once you screw them in all the way they will "bottom out." The stud can't go any further than the threads allow.

 

[gnob]

you install them before the motor.

 

[99RRdifflock]

you install them before the motor.

then i dont have enough room to get them to clear the motor because the sway bar stabilizer is in the way - unless that does need to be removed? Trust me I tried to finaangle it on with the bolts installed.

Thanks guys - I will post pics later today. Again, thanks

 

[pappy]

then i dont have enough room to get them to clear the motor because the sway bar stabilizer is in the way - unless that does need to be removed? Trust me I tried to finaangle it on with the bolts installed.

Thanks guys - I will post pics later today. Again, thanks

Ya, pictures please. This isn't making sense. I can't vision how the sway bar could be anywhere near the e-locker.