E-Brake stuck down (it's not the bellcranks)

[jpeaslee]

Finally joined the LC club after being an outsider looking in for about a decade.

Picked up an 06 Thunder Cloud Gray w/257k, lived in the Atlanta suburbs it's whole life (essentially the big brother to my 3rd Gen 4runner, also Thunder Metallic). Based off the service records, the e-brake has been stuck in the down position for about 100k miles. There was a note on one of the dealer service records that said "Customer states E-Brake is stuck, CAN WE FIX THIS???". I've seen a lot of threads that point to the bellcranks being seized. This thing has ZERO rust, and after checking the bellcranks, they move freely and return to position. Anyone have any thoughts of where to next? I haven't started pulling out the center console, but I'm guessing that's what I'll have to do. I searched a bit, but everything seemed to point towards the bellcranks, with one other person just saying they replaced the whole ebrake cable, but I didn't really understand what was actually wrong with it. Any known issues that I seem to have overlooked, or easy fixes without pulling everything apart and replacing the cable?

 

[TheBussman]

pretty simple system. it's just a lever and cables going back to the bell cranks, disconnect the cables and see whats stuck and what's working.

 

[lelandEOD]

I have the same issue. I'll be following.

 

[jpeaslee]

I have the same issue. I'll be following.

I haven't had the time to dig into it just yet. I do have a new cable arriving today, kind of assuming that's what the problem is. Wanted to have it on hand so I don't have to disassemble everything, figure out the problem, reassemble, and then do it all over again once the part comes in. It's hard to believe it'd be anything other than the cable. Seems like if it's not the bell cranks, it's gonna either be the lever somehow (unlikely) or the cable. We'll see, but I'll definitely post once I figure it out.

 

[2001LC]

When handle will not pull up. But cable across rear diff, loose and bell crank moves freely. It is almost always, sugary drinks spillage, near handle. The cable runs down from handle into a blow, which has the cable housing at bottom. The sugary drinks, fill the blow, and coat the cable as it runs into the cable housing.

You can remove the cable and possibly clean out. I just replace them.

From under side, you can see cable coming out the blow.

Travels back, over rear diff.

 

[OEMGUY0720]

So if the hand brake lever is currently down/ebrake disengaged, can you take a picture of the current position of the bell crank assembly?

 

[jpeaslee]

When handle will not pull up. But cable across rear diff loose and bell crank freely moves. It is almost always sugary drinks spillage, near handle. The cable runs down from handle into a blow, which has cable housing at bottom. The sugary drinks, fill the blow and coat the cable as it runs into the housing.

You can remove the cable and possibly clean out. I just replace them.

This is exactly what it ended up being. Everything about this truck was SUPER clean, but after taking apart the console, there was a sludge in that little cup. Replaced the cable which was 95% super easy, though that one bolt above the gas tank was a bitch to get in and out. Wouldn't have been so bad, but there wasn't enough space between the bolt head and the bracket to get a box wrench or ratcheting socket on it, so it was open end wrench all the way. I really contemplated if it was actually important to put it back, but ultimately i did. I still need to adjust everything, but the problem was 100% the cable getting gunked up.

 

[excessive]

I had the same issue on my 98. There is a little cup that the cable sits in, where it is attached under the lever. After years of ( I guess) Spilled drinks, the end of the cable became frozen. I replaced the cable with a new OEM one, and the operation of the ebrake is smooth again. it took about 2 hours to swap it.

 

[2001LC]

The biggest issue I run into. Is freeing #1 from #2 cable, and freeing adjustor of #2 cable. Replacing both cables, makes job easier.

Next issue, is adjustor/stop of bell crank, if it frozen in.

 

[jpeaslee]

The biggest issue I run into. Is freeing #1 from #2 cable, and freeing adjustor of #2 cable. Replacing both cables, makes job easier.

Next issue, is adjustor/stop of bell crank, if it frozen in.

I didn't realize they were two separate things, so I only ordered the new long cable. Fortunately mine was relatively easy to get apart. I'm fortunate to live in the south and not have to hunt to find southern trucks with little/no rust. It makes a huge difference!