Dual battery wiring

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woytovich

woytovich

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Being a belt and suspenders kinda guy I had planned to do an isolator AND a solenoid dual battery set-up: isolator to keep the charging organized and a solenoid to allow me to join the batteries for winching or to deal with a dead starting battery. I bought the solenoid and isolator from WranglerNW a couple of years ago and am now thinking about installing it... I can't find my paperwork/wiring plan...

Can I do this? Is this (see pic) how the above SHOULD be wired (I left off the ignition wire to the isolator and the switch wiring for the solenoid)

Is there more info out there from some "official" source that I have not been able to find via Google?
dualBatt.webp
 
Which system did you buy?
I put a switchable dual battery system as well in my wife's 91 FJ80 about ten years ago. I got that from Wrangler as well.
Her's has the toggle switch in the cab to run both, one or the other with red and green indicator lights.

If this is what you have let me know and i'll take some pics of it tomorrow and help you out.

Joe
 
you could do it that way, but I have to wonder why you would need the isolator then??

I ran for years with dual batteries and just the solenoid...
 
The isolator would handle everyday charging and would let me put the winch and aux stuff on one battery and let the other handle OEM needs. If/when I needed both, for winching or to start the truck if the OEM side got dead somehow, I would use the solenoid to join the batteries... am I mistaken in this plan?
 
I'm sorry had a brain fart.
I just looked through the old reciept and instructions box and saw that the system I put in my wife's 80 is the Good Samaritan from Painless Wiring. I had a reciept from Painless in there along with a whole lot from Wrangler for other stuff.

I did just remove a Mean Green isolator from my 60 that did what you show in the diagram but didn't have a solenoid to switch.
I had one battery for starting and the other hooked up just to the IPF headlights. I figured I could jump the starter bat with cables if need be.
 
Joe_E said:
I'm sorry had a brain fart.
I just looked through the old reciept and instructions box and saw that the system I put in my wife's 80 is the Good Samaritan from Painless Wiring. I had a reciept from Painless in there along with a whole lot from Wrangler for other stuff.

I did just remove a Mean Green isolator from my 60 that did what you show in the diagram but didn't have a solenoid to switch.
I had one battery for starting and the other hooked up just to the IPF headlights. I figured I could jump the starter bat with cables if need be.
Click to expand...

Right now I plan on using a perfect switch isolater and doing the same. :doh: Wire the winch and aftermarket items to the isolated battery and if necessary pull out the jumper cables to jump the primary starting batery. Can't see the extra complexity for the one or two times a year I have to dig out the jumper cables. Am I wrong? :cheers:Discussion!:clap:
 
I'm thinking that during winching it might be nice to connect both for the extra depth and reduced stress on a single battery... I wouldn't want to have to grab cables for that. I suppose I would give it more thought (cost -benefit analysis) if I didn't already own the solenoid and the isolator.

Plus I get to have another cool switch on the dash! (ok, I know that's not REALLY a reason to do this...)
 
yes your diagram will work no problem.
 
The WranglerNW guys are pretty organized, and have good customer service. Give them a call, tell them what you bought, and ask them to resend wiring info.
 
lovetoski said:
The WranglerNW guys are pretty organized, and have good customer service. Give them a call, tell them what you bought, and ask them to resend wiring info.
Click to expand...

I started this late Friday... Called and emailed Saturday but they are closed till Monday - want to TRY to move this ahead this weekend... YES! The WranglerNW guys are the BEST. I got lots of info on this thing (way back when) AND on upgrading to a GM 144a alternator: they supplied me with the pulley, wiring adapter and adapter brackets to fit it on my 60...

The alternator and the headlight harness/sealed beam eliminator upgrades make a huge difference in the (electrical) usability of the 60. The dual batteries should help even more. (did I mention I'm installing a 1000w inverter and additional cig lighter/power outlets too?)
 
It's my understanding (I could be wrong) that the isolater needs to go between the voltage regulator and your alternator. If you're running the stock alternator it probably has an internal regulator and the isolator does you no good. I just installed a system in mine and that is what I was told by a couple of different manufacturers during my due diligence. I went with the solenoid system from 12VoltGuy.com (a sponsor here) and have been very happy.
 
durangodds said:
It's my understanding (I could be wrong) that the isolater needs to go between the voltage regulator and your alternator. If you're running the stock alternator it probably has an internal regulator and the isolator does you no good. I just installed a system in mine and that is what I was told by a couple of different manufacturers during my due diligence. I went with the solenoid system from 12VoltGuy.com (a sponsor here) and have been very happy.
Click to expand...


Relevant info here:
Battery Isolators - DonRowe.com

and specifically here:
http://www.donrowe.com/battery_isolator/isolator_instructions.pdf

I'll be talking to WranglerNW tomorrow to clear this up...
 
That looks like a lot of good info. It was actually one of the tech guys at Surepower who told me not to bother with the isolator. Whatever that's worth.

I agree with Mace, I don't see why you need it. With the solenoid system I have I can choose which or both batteries I'm drawing from, and which are being charged. It's all controlled by a switch on the dash that 12Voltguy customized for me at no extra charge. If you buy his winch panel you flip the switch to use the winch (draws from both batteries) plus has your winch controls on it. Pretty cool....all labeled too so even a wiring idiot like myself can get it right.
 
I have been running Dual batteries for about 14 years now I think, and use no isolator or switch at all.

Just sent both red leads to the starter and both black to ground.
This gives double the amps and 12V at all times.

No need to switch things around when using the winch.
Plenty of juice for cold starts and jump starting Jeeps.

I have never had any problem with overcharging of one battery or any other problems that an isolator might be used for.

This setup will also let you use two smaller batteries instead of one large one if you want to try to squeeze them both on the same side.

The last run I was on, one of the modified mini trucks/rock crawlers, cracked his frame and I loaned out one battery for the welder. Once returned it chargered back up just fine without any trouble.

Just my two cents.

Ken
 
It's good to hear that this simple arrangement works well... (and I mean "simple" in a good way... ) I don't know what the failure rate is of isolators or the rate that running your simplified arrangement impacts battery life (as mentioned below). I suppose knowing that info could guide a decision....
 
Last edited:
oldwineo said:
I have been running Dual batteries for about 14 years now I think, and use no isolator or switch at all.

Just sent both red leads to the starter and both black to ground.
This gives double the amps and 12V at all times.
Click to expand...

Ken - Don't you risk loosing both batteries when one of the bozos leaves the lights on?
 
No Bozos here.

Anyway, that's what push starting is for.

I do see your point... Just like the "simpler is better idea" when I'm out on the trail.
 
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