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Emergency battery disconnect system?
Dual Battery w/pic’s, verbose
- Thread starter RavenTai
- Start date
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Emergency battery disconnect system?
concretejungle said:It does happen, trust me! I once had a really new looking leather man. Now it's got melted tips and blackened.
Oh, and Raven, is that a shotgun shell in that one pic just in front of the battery?
typical boobytrap for battery pilferers....
- Thread starter
- #23
LOL, yes that was a spent shot gun shell, that is actually an out of date picture showing the first revision, addition of the filter. I did not think anyone would notice The choke capacitor were soldered to perforated board and sealed into the shell to protect the circuit and keep out water. It was just the right size. Second revision the addition of the mini relay did not fit in the shotgun shell so the capacitor choke and the relay were put in a 35mm film canister
Not going to be able to finish the install text tonight have to take care of some things.
Not going to be able to finish the install text tonight have to take care of some things.
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Nice clean work, I also work with the heavier steel type battery posts connectors, in my case I soldier the ends then hammer crimp them for a secure and very positive contection.
Also use the black and red tape on the connectors.
My favourite but expensive wire is marine grade, very maluable.
Cheers
Rob
Also use the black and red tape on the connectors.
My favourite but expensive wire is marine grade, very maluable.
Cheers
Rob
- Thread starter
- #25
post is as done as I am going to get it, if something needs more info or clarification please ask.
Sorry forgot to respond to ypur post.
Compared to may undersized interstate they are great, the starter sounds like it is turning much faster, especially on cold days where with the old battery the starter sounded like it was about to stall, biggest test will be listening to the radio all day (cold not do it with the old battery) only time will tell on long term reliability, Concord has a lot of followers. Hopefully my experience will be the same.
Not sure if there is an extra inch up, the handles barely rubb on the bottom of hood, had to move them.
I know there is not any more space for width, there are a lot of group 31 size batteries out there you may be able to shoe-horn one in the tray but you will have to come up with another form of hold down, there is only just over 12" between the two J- hooks, both trays were built for group 27 batteries.
best4x4xfar said:
Sorry forgot to respond to ypur post.
Compared to may undersized interstate they are great, the starter sounds like it is turning much faster, especially on cold days where with the old battery the starter sounded like it was about to stall, biggest test will be listening to the radio all day (cold not do it with the old battery) only time will tell on long term reliability, Concord has a lot of followers. Hopefully my experience will be the same.
Not sure if there is an extra inch up, the handles barely rubb on the bottom of hood, had to move them.
I know there is not any more space for width, there are a lot of group 31 size batteries out there you may be able to shoe-horn one in the tray but you will have to come up with another form of hold down, there is only just over 12" between the two J- hooks, both trays were built for group 27 batteries.
RavenTai said:
One little detail remaining...
Nice job Raven!
-B-
- Thread starter
- #27
!its dark and raining will have to wait. Ok how aobut almost done?
- Thread starter
- #29
Rich said:
The ignition coil is mounted to the L/H shock tower (part of frame) and there are several grounds running between the frame body and engine in that area, don’t know if anything else is grounded to it factory, but now if I do any bumper work and add electrical items I know they will have a good high amperage ground.
Looking forward to seeing your setup tomorrow night, Raven!
- Thread starter
- #31
Brandy house, 7 o clock.
7:30 is official start time FYI
Many-me included when possible-get there a little early to shoot the breeze
Good deal.
Many-me included when possible-get there a little early to shoot the breeze
Good deal.
- Thread starter
- #33
bump for fixed pictures
Hi Raven
I Have the same battery for my main and a exide orbital for back up only.
I used the Hell roaring Bic. I only connect the back up battery when I am on a long drive to charge. I will only use this battery if I need to jump start my self.
In this case I do not need a matched set of batteries is that true or false?
Thanks
I Have the same battery for my main and a exide orbital for back up only.
I used the Hell roaring Bic. I only connect the back up battery when I am on a long drive to charge. I will only use this battery if I need to jump start my self.
In this case I do not need a matched set of batteries is that true or false?
Thanks
- Thread starter
- #35
did not see this til now,
a year and some odd is too long to wait for an answer but anyway,
If the batteries are isolated whenever the alternator is NOT running the batteries do not have to match.
if they are ever in paralleled with the alternator voltage at less than 12.5v or so than they need to match
According to the Lifeline website--the AGMs like to be "smart charged" or step charged. Whats your take on the 80 alternators voltage charging and how it will ultimately effect the AGMs battery life?
I have spoken with one Marine Supplier who claims they simply use an ACR to isolate batteries and bulk charge the house bank directly off the alternator with good results. But im a bit confused given what the Lifeline website states about charging issues with AGMs and the need for smart charging.
I have spoken with one Marine Supplier who claims they simply use an ACR to isolate batteries and bulk charge the house bank directly off the alternator with good results. But im a bit confused given what the Lifeline website states about charging issues with AGMs and the need for smart charging.
- Thread starter
- #38
I had an intermittent alternator problem for a wile but after getting that fixed all has been well for the past 2.5 years.
I seem to recall reading somewhere that the AGMs can gobble up amperage thats close to 100% of its AH capacity. I guess if the Amphour capacity of those Lifelines you have exceeds the 80amps that the stock alternator can put out- it might be the cause of alternator issues. Im guessing that since you have two BIG Lifelines---that it would take quite a bit to drain them to even half the AH capacity which might keep you under the 80amp max of the alt.
- Thread starter
- #40
that may be a bit of a stretch, I am not sure how a battery could consume 100AH instantly without turning into molten pile of lead and plastic (100AH x 60 x 60 = 360,000 amps in one second) but here is a story, they can be "hungry" when at a low state of charge.
I ordered my batteries of the web, right at the Christmas rush. when they arrived both cartons (heavy duty multi wall cardboard boxes) looked like they had been rolled from Tennessee to here by UPS, both batteries were damaged one severely one minor, I called and they sent out two more, they did not want the old ones back (too expensive to ship back)
Anyway the original damaged two have been sitting in the garage for almost 3 years, bought an old boat teo weeks ago, needed a battery. checked the voltage on both were reading just over 12 volts, basically depleted but not shorted, took the better of the two and epoxied the pin hole in the corner of the case, dropped it in the boat and it started it right up, wanted to put more charge on the battery than the 6A the outboard can supply so got out the jumper cables and hooked that battery to the 80, (my battery charger is in FL) right when I made the last connection you could hear the motor laboring under the load of the alternator, whent to the hand throttle and tacked it up to 2K RPM where the alternator could make soem aperage, got curious and checked the voltage at the 80's battery and it was down to near battery voltage, (low 13's)
So the discharged lifeline in the boat was able to take every bit that that alternator could put out. left it hooked up for about 20 min wile I cleaned up from the day working on the boat and it had caught up a bit and was still in the mid 13's, When the alt is not at max load should be in the mid 14's (14.4/14.5 V )
have never depleted the batteries in the 80 to experience this before.
Gratuitous $400 boat picture.
I ordered my batteries of the web, right at the Christmas rush. when they arrived both cartons (heavy duty multi wall cardboard boxes) looked like they had been rolled from Tennessee to here by UPS, both batteries were damaged one severely one minor, I called and they sent out two more, they did not want the old ones back (too expensive to ship back)
Anyway the original damaged two have been sitting in the garage for almost 3 years, bought an old boat teo weeks ago, needed a battery. checked the voltage on both were reading just over 12 volts, basically depleted but not shorted, took the better of the two and epoxied the pin hole in the corner of the case, dropped it in the boat and it started it right up, wanted to put more charge on the battery than the 6A the outboard can supply so got out the jumper cables and hooked that battery to the 80, (my battery charger is in FL) right when I made the last connection you could hear the motor laboring under the load of the alternator, whent to the hand throttle and tacked it up to 2K RPM where the alternator could make soem aperage, got curious and checked the voltage at the 80's battery and it was down to near battery voltage, (low 13's)
So the discharged lifeline in the boat was able to take every bit that that alternator could put out. left it hooked up for about 20 min wile I cleaned up from the day working on the boat and it had caught up a bit and was still in the mid 13's, When the alt is not at max load should be in the mid 14's (14.4/14.5 V )
have never depleted the batteries in the 80 to experience this before.
Gratuitous $400 boat picture.
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