dual battery system with one battery in rear of vehicle ?

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is this possible and if not, why not ?

If it is then why have i never seen anyone do it ?

So many questions.
 
I have two batteries in the rear for my stereo. I doubt that is what you are asking for but, it might help you.

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I have two batteries in the rear for my stereo. I doubt that is what you are asking for but, it might help you.

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and, just to be clear, those batteries are in series with the battery that starts your vehicle and, most importantly, those batteries are also all hooked up to your alternator and are constantly discharging/recharging ?

Im guessing you just charge those things up and drop them in there temporarily but, if not, that is exactly what i was hoping to learn if it's possible.
 
I upgraded the alternator to a 260a & the batteries are wired in series to a Group 27 battery under the hood.

You could put a battery isolator if you wanted to run them separately.
 
My only wiring under the hood & straight to the trunk.

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What do you use all that juice for ? I wanted to run a large inverter ... u must have some major sounds in there
 
2400w, 20 speakers & 7.1 surround sound & can still seat 8.

I will post some better pictures whenever I get a chance to take them. These were taken during the build.

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Sure it's possible. Why do you want to do it? A lot more work than putting a dual battery in the engine bay.
 
Sure it's possible. Why do you want to do it? A lot more work than putting a dual battery in the engine bay.

could be becuase he has an LX and wants two full size batteries instead of 2 smaller batteries?

dunno, just a guess.

OP, have a look at the luna systems, IBS or blue sea add battery kit w/ ACR for the various wiring kits.

your options are either two smaller batteries in the stock location turned 90 degrees, you can relocate your power steering fluid res. , or you could put batteries in the back like the stereo guy did....

personally, i'm going this route.
100 Series Family Adventure Rig - Page 2 - Expedition Portal

with either a luna or IBS kit.

i currently have a dual battery setup in my 4runner, i did the stock location and 90 degree flip in it, it's worked very well for a number of years for me now, but for the LX i'm liking the setup above, i get two larger batteries and a lot less work from the looks of it and i get to keep my AHC as well.

fyi, the dual battery kits are all interchangeable, they are typically used across boat,RV's, and cars and trucks, so the wiring kits and monitors and such don't care what you are using them in, just pick one that you want to deal with installing and has the features you want....the only thing vehicle specific is going to be the location of the batteries and batteries trays and such...and really not all that hard to fab something yourself up, as in the thread above looks like the guy just used some c-channel, and i did the same in my 4runner, just got a big bit of alum c-channel and drilled a few holes and got some threaded rod and bolts to fit and slammed it all togther, really easy.

so really, what i am trying to say here OP is no one can really help you until you decide what you want to do, figure out what batteries you want to run.... that should lead you to where they are going to go, and from there just pick the wiring kit you want.

i'm using the blue sea add a battery kit with ACR in the 4runner....i'm going with a luna or IBS kit in the LX470 as i want better visiability and monitoring when moving forward....never had a problem with just the blue sea kit, have had it for 7-8 years now...i think, lol, a while....just for my comfort level and wanting "cooler and better" i've decided to go another route and more $$$ route this time around.
 
Sure it's possible. Why do you want to do it? A lot more work than putting a dual battery in the engine bay.


my experience working with large inverters to power power tools and such is that inverters that are connected directly to a battery work much better than one that is attached through a cigarette lighter style power outlet - particularly ones in the back of a vehicle. What this told me is that the wiring between those power outlets in the back of the vehcle are not wired with heavy enough wires to support a load that big, thus I would like to wire a batter in the back of the vehicle with large guage wiring and then attach a large inverter directly to that battery.

Hiding all of this somehow is step two but, if assumptions above are correct, how this all looks is definitely secondary to powering a large inverter in the back of the truck. I could even remove battery number two except for times when i need it
 
i really want to find a place in the back to hide a battery and then wire a couple normal home receptacles into the inside wall of the tailgate.... and put the inverter itself inside the tailgate as well.... that would be perrrrfect.
 
@KillerBox , I would love to see you system sometime. I live on the Eastern Shore, in Fairhope. I used to be deeply into car audio in my earlier days. I had a car with a similar layout about 20 years ago.
 
my experience working with large inverters to power power tools and such is that inverters that are connected directly to a battery work much better than one that is attached through a cigarette lighter style power outlet - particularly ones in the back of a vehicle. What this told me is that the wiring between those power outlets in the back of the vehcle are not wired with heavy enough wires to support a load that big, thus I would like to wire a batter in the back of the vehicle with large guage wiring and then attach a large inverter directly to that battery.

Hiding all of this somehow is step two but, if assumptions above are correct, how this all looks is definitely secondary to powering a large inverter in the back of the truck. I could even remove battery number two except for times when i need it

It would still be easier to run large wire to the back than to put the battery back there.

What are you trying to do off an inverter that requires that much power? Remember they are very inefficient.
 
It would still be easier to run large wire to the back than to put the battery back there.

What are you trying to do off an inverter that requires that much power? Remember they are very inefficient.


Power tools in places where there is no AC power source to plug into. Mostly saws, drills, etc.
 
Either way you're running a large (at least 2ga?) run to the back either for the charging circuit for the battery, or for the inverter. You lose a lot of power to resistance (big delta V) with smaller cables.

There are plenty of off-the-shelf options for under the hood mounting of extra batteries and you should consider that in an accident/roll over a cabin-mounted battery can become a projectile. Good reasons for putting in the back though are less heat/cold (which batteries hate), better weight distribution, proximity to power distribution etc.

I went with a 0 gauge hot lead to a distribution block and a 2500W inverter behind the second row with a 100A SS circuit breaker under the hood. A short in that lead will burn your truck up pretty quickly. The Zantrex inverter has a remote 120V option, so I wired an AC GFCI outlet back to the rear hatch. I run electric hedge clippers up and down a 1/3 mile driveway, chop saw, Sawzall, electric impact wrench, pretty much anything I want with the exception of AC powered electronics. It's not a pure sine wave inverter.

Easiest way to run a cable that large is along the inside of a frame rail and come up through one of the drain plugs in the back. You can easily adapt a Blue Sea bulkhead wire fitting with large fender washers and RTV sealant.
 
Either way you're running a large (at least 2ga?) run to the back either for the charging circuit for the battery, or for the inverter. You lose a lot of power to resistance (big delta V) with smaller cables.

There are plenty of off-the-shelf options for under the hood mounting of extra batteries and you should consider that in an accident/roll over a cabin-mounted battery can become a projectile. Good reasons for putting in the back though are less heat/cold (which batteries hate), better weight distribution, proximity to power distribution etc.

I went with a 0 gauge hot lead to a distribution block and a 2500W inverter behind the second row with a 100A SS circuit breaker under the hood. A short in that lead will burn your truck up pretty quickly. The Zantrex inverter has a remote 120V option, so I wired an AC GFCI outlet back to the rear hatch. I run electric hedge clippers up and down a 1/3 mile driveway, chop saw, Sawzall, electric impact wrench, pretty much anything I want with the exception of AC powered electronics. It's not a pure sine wave inverter.

Easiest way to run a cable that large is along the inside of a frame rail and come up through one of the drain plugs in the back. You can easily adapt a Blue Sea bulkhead wire fitting with large fender washers and RTV sealant.


man this is exactly what i want to do. Your description is great - would also love to see any pics you have time to snap of any part of this setup particularly the GFCI outlet. thanks
 
I upgraded the alternator to a 260a & the batteries are wired in series to a Group 27 battery under the hood.

You could put a battery isolator if you wanted to run them separately.

so, to be clear, you have 4 batteries in total ? 2 under hood and 2 in back ... ? what does adding a 'group 27' battery to this mix accomplish ?

curious.
 
so, to be clear, you have 4 batteries in total ? 2 under hood and 2 in back ... ? what does adding a 'group 27' battery to this mix accomplish ?

curious.

oic - you have swapped your main for a deep cycle battery, right ? not in addition to

right ?
 

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