Dual batteries anyone?

[armytaco]

I have been throwing the idea of getting dual batteries around for a while. I dont have alot of accessories now, but plan on adding 6 lights,gps, cb, fridge(long ways off) and already have a winch on the truck. I have been researching them( Found alot of systems done.. not looking for that more like someone hear thats done it and could help). I know Dirty Parts has a drop in system for my truck.. but it is $400 without battery. I was wondering if anyone around here has done it cheaper and could maybe help if I decide to go for it. I am not any where near being a wiring guy so the aspect of drop in sound nice. Let me know what yall got and what you think.

 

[BMThiker]

I think the major coin in a dual batt setup is the 0-1 gauge copper required. Probably run you $200 just for that. I don't have any experience doing the install and would probably take it to someone like ACC to do it. Electrical stuff just baffles me. I barely got my Hellas installed without pulling my hair out.

 

[TeddyBoy]

Chris, don't know if you have ever hit this site but it's pretty good

Brians894x4

Also might check the Expeditions section for a lot more info.

 

[armytaco]

Ted.. I have read plenty of write ups on it and if I did get the Dirty Parts kit I could bolt it in no problem as it designed for a FJC. The problem with that is the $400 tag that comes with the ability to drop it in no problem.

I have read of many people that have done there own and I dont think it would be to hard... just I am not a wire guru. I can wrench but when it comes to wiring... it really throws w wrench in my work.

Painless Performance make a dual batt kit for roughly $125 but its kinda a universal kit and i would definately need some assistance on getting it together.

 

[4in100]

Check out 12voltguy.com he can do the panel sorta custom if you'd like. The hardest part is getting all the parts necessary. Electricity isn't that hard really. I mean, I chose it as a profession (not i'm not Electricity Man in my spare time)

 

[marius]

can't one just use a deul battery isolater?

 

[smittycrusher]

As far a the dual batt setup, here are the two best choices that I have come up with (granted I have only researched for an 80 and know nothing about the FJs):

1. For the easiest, most fool-proof, highest qulaity set up, go with the Dirty Parts kit. I have actually wheeled with Larry numerous times when I was in CA. I have bought things from him in person and his shop, team and himself are all first class. He is a great crusier vendor to support and I can't imagine him not providing anything but first class technical and/or other support even after the sale.

2. Follow this link to a more simple (engineering wise), manual approach. The downside to this is that you have to source all the parts yourself and it is 100% manual switch (which really is not a big deal at all, I don't know anything about Larry's kit so it may be manual as well). I don't know what costs would be in todays market for thise type on set-up. IIRC those in CA that did it still had between $150 - $200 in their kits before the battery.

I would probably do number 2 for merely for the $ saved. Having my income tied to the stock marjet right now would make my decision. If I did have the extra coin, I would have no problems saving time/energy by spending the extra money.


As far as batteries go, I plan to get a Sears Diehard Platinum with a nice warranty for the 2nd one. This one is $40 cheaper than the Optima that I have in my truck now. I already have the Optima and really don't see the need for another super expensive battery as the second one. I am really not convinced that the Sears batteries aren't better than the optimas anyways. Better warranty and arguably better performance, but that is a whole other conversation.

.02,
Smit

 

[armytaco]

I have been reading alot more about these. It seems maybe the painless is the way to go. It has the isolator in the kit. All I would need is the battery cables. The painless is about $120-140 if I recall. After I really sat down reading a write-up and drew the wiring in paint, it doesnt look hard at all. Just reading it kinda confused me. I will let everyone know how it goes if I decide to forgo this project on my own. If anyone else has any comments let me know.
Here is my basic layout.

 

[trucruiser]

Summit has some pretty decent prices on complete systems - battery

Battery Control Systems - summitracing.com

 

[4xsteve]

I did my dual battery set-up for the cost of the battery (and that was free from buddy). I guess it was mostly free though cause I had the stuff laying around and didn't do an isolator. I mounted a battery box in the bed of my truck and dropped the battery in. For wiring, I had an old set of jumper cables that already had one of the clamps missing so I just went ahead and took the other clamp off on that side and wired that end to the main battery up front. I left the clamps on the other end so that I can keep it disconnected most of the time. I only am charging the front battery most of time when the 2nd isn't in use. If you're going to be using more amperage, just clamp on the cables and now you have double the amperage. The alternator shouldn't strain much because the main battery should already be at full charge when you clamp up to the 2nd one. I never hook up the second one unless Im planning on winching a lot or have just finished winching and need to recharge the rear battery. That's my budget battery build.

 

[GXO]

I will be putting a dual system in the Cado (now Guacamole) when I get it back. The posts are right in that the major cost lies in the second battery and the cables. Copper has gone up 4x in the last year or so and it is INSANELY expensive. The jumper cable idea is interesting. Older cables are copper and the right gauge, so if you know how to recrimp the ends I cant see why this wouldnt work. Most of the cables you can buy are a different grade of copper and is more plyable so they can be routed easier.

 

[pillguy]

I thought my painless wiring extra fuseblock set up was well put together. everything labeled, etc.

Ted.. I have read plenty of write ups on it and if I did get the Dirty Parts kit I could bolt it in no problem as it designed for a FJC. The problem with that is the $400 tag that comes with the ability to drop it in no problem.

I have read of many people that have done there own and I dont think it would be to hard... just I am not a wire guru. I can wrench but when it comes to wiring... it really throws w wrench in my work.

Painless Performance make a dual batt kit for roughly $125 but its kinda a universal kit and i would definately need some assistance on getting it together.

 

[armytaco]

Yes I have figured out the process isnt as hard as I thought. It was just confusing reading how it was done and not looking at a picture.

 

[71-CRUISER]

All you realy need is a good battery isolator. We make all of our own cables (2 or 4 gauge) per aplication. We also add a Aux Marine fuse pannel that is run off the secondary battery that you can run up to 100 amps (per the inline breaker) of accesories off of.

The isolator that we use is about $200 and you can get the fuse pannels for about $50 from any marine supply store (west marine). There is also about another $100 in cables, ends and shrink wrap.

Without an isolator there is nothing keeping your accesories from killing your main battery which is realy the main reason to do dual batteries in the first placee.

The first pic is of a 2002 4-Runner and the second is a 100 series Cruiser.

 

[GXO]

Those look familiar...saw em when I dropped off the Cado!

 

[LDowney]

I have been throwing the idea of getting dual batteries around for a while. I dont have alot of accessories now, but plan on adding 6 lights,gps, cb, fridge(long ways off) and already have a winch on the truck. I have been researching them( Found alot of systems done.. not looking for that more like someone hear thats done it and could help). I know Dirty Parts has a drop in system for my truck.. but it is $400 without battery. I was wondering if anyone around here has done it cheaper and could maybe help if I decide to go for it. I am not any where near being a wiring guy so the aspect of drop in sound nice. Let me know what yall got and what you think.

As far a the dual batt setup, here are the two best choices that I have come up with (granted I have only researched for an 80 and know nothing about the FJs):

1. For the easiest, most fool-proof, highest qulaity set up, go with the Dirty Parts kit. I have actually wheeled with Larry numerous times when I was in CA. I have bought things from him in person and his shop, team and himself are all first class. He is a great crusier vendor to support and I can't imagine him not providing anything but first class technical and/or other support even after the sale.

2. Follow this link to a more simple (engineering wise), manual approach. The downside to this is that you have to source all the parts yourself and it is 100% manual switch (which really is not a big deal at all, I don't know anything about Larry's kit so it may be manual as well). I don't know what costs would be in todays market for thise type on set-up. IIRC those in CA that did it still had between $150 - $200 in their kits before the battery.

I would probably do number 2 for merely for the $ saved. Having my income tied to the stock marjet right now would make my decision. If I did have the extra coin, I would have no problems saving time/energy by spending the extra money.


As far as batteries go, I plan to get a Sears Diehard Platinum with a nice warranty for the 2nd one. This one is $40 cheaper than the Optima that I have in my truck now. I already have the Optima and really don't see the need for another super expensive battery as the second one. I am really not convinced that the Sears batteries aren't better than the optimas anyways. Better warranty and arguably better performance, but that is a whole other conversation.

.02,
Smit

I have been reading alot more about these. It seems maybe the painless is the way to go. It has the isolator in the kit. All I would need is the battery cables. The painless is about $120-140 if I recall. After I really sat down reading a write-up and drew the wiring in paint, it doesnt look hard at all. Just reading it kinda confused me. I will let everyone know how it goes if I decide to forgo this project on my own. If anyone else has any comments let me know.
Here is my basic layout.

All you realy need is a good battery isolator. We make all of our own cables (2 or 4 gauge) per aplication. We also add a Aux Marine fuse pannel that is run off the secondary battery that you can run up to 100 amps (per the inline breaker) of accesories off of.

The isolator that we use is about $200 and you can get the fuse pannels for about $50 from any marine supply store (west marine). There is also about another $100 in cables, ends and shrink wrap.

Without an isolator there is nothing keeping your accesories from killing your main battery which is realy the main reason to do dual batteries in the first placee.

The first pic is of a 2002 4-Runner and the second is a 100 series Cruiser.

This is an interesting thread because I was not appreciating how the 'undocumented' requirements were driving the complexity and the cost. It became clear once I pulled up the link that Scott provided. The undocumented requirements are

• Self jump
• Single or Dual Battery Use/Isolation
• Full Winch Isolation

and they combine to drive the complexity of the wiring and the need for the isolator with selectable modes.

However; if the requirements are simpler such as increasing the cranking amps available and reducing the load per battery, two batteries could be wired in a parallel circuit to achieve this.

At first I questioned if it could be so simple. => What did I miss guys?

However, the diesel Cruisers with 12 volt systems (such as my old '85 BJ70) have the batteries wired in a simple parallel circuit due to the power required for turning over the engine for starting. The charging circuit on the wiring diagram appears no more complicated than other diagrams with a single battery, so it does appear to make sense.

Consequently, what are the requirements? If selectability & full flexibility in dual battery operation are required, the installation will be more complex which will drive costs too. If the requirements are simpler such as more cranking amps and dual batteries available for high load operation (winch and/or accessories), the installation could be as simple as dual batteries wired in parallel. Great food for thought if I ever consider a dual battery approach for the FJ40 or the FJ80.
Thanks for the thread and please excuse the rambling.

As a side note, we used to utilize a similar method on old farm tractors for a different reason. Some of the tractors we used came from the factory with two 6 volt batteries in series which provided a 12 volt electrical system. These tractors frequently were hard to start especially in the winter. To improve the year round starting performance, we pulled the 6 volt batteries and wired two 12 volt batteries in parallel. This kept the electrical system at 12 volt while providing a lot more cranking amps (i.e., power available for starting). Very effective and simple performance enhancement.

 

[informationjunky]

This is an interesting thread because I was not appreciating how the 'undocumented' requirements were driving the complexity and the cost. It became clear once I pulled up the link that Scott provided. The undocumented requirements are

• Self jump
• Single or Dual Battery Use/Isolation
• Full Winch Isolation

and they combine to drive the complexity of the wiring and the need for the isolator with selectable modes.

However; if the requirements are simpler such as increasing the cranking amps available and reducing the load per battery, two batteries could be wired in a parallel circuit to achieve this.

At first I questioned if it could be so simple. => What did I miss guys?

However, the diesel Cruisers with 12 volt systems (such as my old '85 BJ70) have the batteries wired in a simple parallel circuit due to the power required for turning over the engine for starting. The charging circuit on the wiring diagram appears no more complicated than other diagrams with a single battery, so it does appear to make sense.

Consequently, what are the requirements? If selectability & full flexibility in dual battery operation are required, the installation will be more complex which will drive costs too. If the requirements are simpler such as more cranking amps and dual batteries available for high load operation (winch and/or accessories), the installation could be as simple as dual batteries wired in parallel. Great food for thought if I ever consider a dual battery approach for the FJ40 or the FJ80.
Thanks for the thread and please excuse the rambling.

As a side note, we used to utilize a similar method on old farm tractors for a different reason. Some of the tractors we used came from the factory with two 6 volt batteries in series which provided a 12 volt electrical system. These tractors frequently were hard to start especially in the winter. To improve the year round starting performance, we pulled the 6 volt batteries and wired two 12 volt batteries in parallel. This kept the electrical system at 12 volt while providing a lot more cranking amps (i.e., power available for starting). Very effective and simple performance enhancement.

I ran a red top and a yellow top in parallel for about 8 months with no problems (diss-assembled when I replaced starter with plans of installing an isolator). I know ideally you should have the same batts for parallel.

Side note, the yellow top was a blem from interstate batteries that was about $40 and has been going strong for 3 years now.