After extensive searching it looks like I should be able to drive without my rear drive shaft in my 98 LC. It seems that I just need to engage the center diff lock (button pushed in) and away we go... except when I do this the truck does not move. It seems that maybe my center diff lock isn't working (the dash light does not illuminate and I hear nothing when pressing the button)? If the center diff isn't working is it then not possible to drive without the rear drive shaft? Please advise.
Driving without rear shaft (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter aharlan001
- Start date
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Correct, however, I must ask. Why?
**disregard, I saw you're other thread**
**disregard, I saw you're other thread**
- Thread starter
- #3
So when I try to drive it with the center diff unlocked I hear a whirling/grinding sound. Did I damage something trying this?
I can confirm 100% you can make the LC front wheel drive by just pulling the rear driveshaft, locking the center diff, and driving. I did it for about a week after i nuked one of my rear u-joints.
As far as the noise, not sure. Is it actually a noise, or just the end plate on the rear output shaft of the Transfer case spinning really fast?
As far as the noise, not sure. Is it actually a noise, or just the end plate on the rear output shaft of the Transfer case spinning really fast?
Trunk Monkey
Moderator
If the center isn't locked, you'll just spin the rear output, truck won't move. Path of least resistance.
- Thread starter
- #6
Ok 
It's just the endplate spinning really fast then, the sound was a little unnerving... Unfortunately my center diff isn't locking so I'm stuck until my new shaft arrives...
It's just the endplate spinning really fast then, the sound was a little unnerving... Unfortunately my center diff isn't locking so I'm stuck until my new shaft arrives...
Ok
Did you try turning it off and back on...?
Seriously though, crawl under and try just jiggling the 4wd sensor in the side of the t-case. There's multiple threads on here about the center diff not engaging. Look some of those up and run through the troubleshooting.
hopefully its an easy fix for you to get the center diff locking
- Thread starter
- #9
I've just been through the first 4 pages searching and all I've found are posts on the center diff engaging but the light not working.
If you want to keep at it, search the threads about locker actuators and dtails on testing them with a 9V battery... you may be able to overide the issue and get the center to lock up that way. The center is the same basic actuation system as the axle e-lockers on all the 80's and 100's among others.
- Thread starter
- #11
Thanks, yes seems to be the actuator... Sounds like a lot of work to get at the actuator especially on my rusty rig...
Do you hear it engage and the light doesn't illuminate, or does it not engage?
- Thread starter
- #13
I hear absolutely nothing when I hit the switch also no light
also no light
maybe the button is disconnected?
- Thread starter
- #15
Actually holding onto hope for that option since I have had that panel off quite a bit... Will pull it off when I get home and check, fingers crossed...
This may do nothing at all, but have you tried shifting the transfer case lever between H-N-L and back, and maybe just rolling the truck in neutral?
You definitely don't hear a relay clicking behind the dash near the glovebox when you push the CDL button? It will be very faint, it's not intended to be a notification sound. Turn off the radio and the fan and listen closely.
You definitely don't hear a relay clicking behind the dash near the glovebox when you push the CDL button? It will be very faint, it's not intended to be a notification sound. Turn off the radio and the fan and listen closely.
- Thread starter
- #17
I will try but if it were engaging I should have been able to get the truck to move without the rear shaft when I put it in drive and hit the gas... right???
Correct, it should have. I just finished a week of running with no front shaft, and did about a week with no rear prior to that.
I'm just curious if there's something inside the transfer case that needs to turn a little for the lock to engage. It could be a nothing-burger, but I'd give it a shot before buying any other parts.
Also, try locking it with the transfer case in low, too.
I'm just curious if there's something inside the transfer case that needs to turn a little for the lock to engage. It could be a nothing-burger, but I'd give it a shot before buying any other parts.
Also, try locking it with the transfer case in low, too.
- Thread starter
- #19
No luck with the above. The wiring harness is all fully plugged in behind the dash panel. I tried pushing the vehicle forward and in reverse a few times as suggested above but no change. There is absolutely no noise when pressing the center diff button... sounds like the actuator is stuck then...
- Thread starter
- #20
Is the actuator wiring the same on the 100 as it is on the 80 and the same on the rear diff as it is on the center diff? I found some specs as far as what wire to connect the 9v to on the rear diff on the 80 series but have yet to find information on the center diff for the 100...
