Drivetrain shaking and rumbling when coming to a stop

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What tires are you running and how old are they. Badly cupped?
Cooper STT Pro 315. Some cupping but not awful.
 
Hi, Check rear drums. Mike
The front and rear axles were completely rebuilt with new bearings and grease. The rear rotors were pulled as part of the axle job. The drums are fine.
 
Maybe rotate the tires to see if the vibes follow?

Secondly, perhaps take the front end out of the equation by removing the front DS and the drive plates. But, a sand paddle like sensation is a rather pronounce type of vibe that I don't think would come from a gear meshing area or a Tcase bearing area. However, the front wheel bearing *could* be suspect if they're badly indented some how. Still, this is a WAG at this point!
I drove for about 50 miles with no front drive shaft and there was no change in the vibes. The front bearings were replaced a month ago when I did the axle job. The shaking was present before the axle job.
 
My 80 vibrates at slow speed on pavement, it's my tires Mickey Thompson mtz mud terrains. They are similar to the st pros. Probably the same casing. Try driving in some soft dirt and see if you get any vibes. If its in the drive train it will still vibrate.
 
My 80 vibrates at slow speed on pavement, it's my tires Mickey Thompson mtz mud terrains. They are similar to the st pros. Probably the same casing. Try driving in some soft dirt and see if you get any vibes. If its in the drive train it will still vibrate.
You make an excellent point! I just remembered that I didn't notice any driveline vibes yesterday when I was driving here.

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I drove for about 50 miles with no front drive shaft and there was no change in the vibes. The front bearings were replaced a month ago when I did the axle job. The shaking was present before the axle job.

Hmm, so if you were to sit in the cargo area or on the back seats, I wonder if you'd feel the same vibes from the back tires?
 
Nah.

I took my mostly fine 93 LC to have the tranny rebuilt. When I got it back 5 mos later it has all the symptoms you describe, PLUS an APPAULING driveline shatter (yes I use that word, imagine sword play between two Musketeers with aluminum baseball bats) PLUS no more low range functions or indications on the dash -- yes IT WAS a factory triple-locker when I took it to them.

NATURALLY the (reputable?) shop in COLORADO SPRINGS claims they had nothing to do with it. AND I PAID *UCKING DEARLY FOR THIS BS.

This shop wants to blame the transfer case and/or driveline angles. Slee did the lift and set the angles. There were no issues with the angles when it went in for the rebuild. Is there something in the process of rebuilding the trany that the driveline angles will suddenly change?? (unlikely is my hunch).

"I tested the center diff lock and found it seized/inoperable", he says. "How strange", I reply, " as it worked fine the day before you people got a hold of it".

"Coincidental failure", he replies.

Bottom line...the issues you describe as becoming worse over time CAN ALSO HAPPEN instantly after a trip to the mechanic.

So where does that leave us??
 
Motor mounts is my thought.
 
Different idea, but maybe your kick down cable is too tight?
 
Different idea, but maybe your kick down cable is too tight?
Tighten the belts to spec, including the AC belt. I had driveline shake at idle when in drive and it felt like the motor was going to jump out the bay. Tightened up the belts per recommendations on another thread and all is good. Used one of those cricket belt tension testers from Amazon.
 

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