Driver's seat foam replacement question

[AdventureBuddies]

1997 FZJ80. Leather power seat.

Just bought the new driver's seat foam from Cdan. I've read the various searches about leather replacement but I'm unclear on something because I'm not replacing my leather - just the foam.

Do I need to completely remove the leather to replace the foam? Do I need hog ring pliers and hog rings for this job?

Thanks

 

[landtank]

I beleive you need to remove the cover and those tools. What you will find once in there is that the metal frame on the outside of the foam has cut into or possibly through the foam. It's from sliding in and out. You should cover those areas with some burlap or other material to protect the new foam from doing the same thing. I plan to pull my cover and see if I can weld a small strip of metal on those rods to act as a shelf and forgo the foam replacement.

 

[Tools R Us]

Rebuilding the foam is an easy job. Even if I bought new i would have added some fabric to reinforce the area over the switches, without it the wires will cut into it again. This is what I did and has held up well;

https://forum.ih8mud.com/az-copper-state-cruisers/213566-%9180-series-seat-repair.html

 

[AdventureBuddies]

I have read that thread several times. Thank you for posting it. I'll take your suggestion and build up the area for preventative purposes. Any ideas on how long it should take me to get the seat out, replace the foam, and put it back together?

Do I need silicone spray?

 

[Tools R Us]

I planed an afternoon/evening deal, had a split seam in the cover to repair, was going to clean, do whatever was needed. That was foiled by a friend getting stuck about a 5hr drive away, so had to jam it back together. I didn't need silicone, the biggest pain was getting to some of the hog rings, some aren't in the easiest spots.

Was going to put metal over the switch wires, but the foam worked very well. It supports the upper foam well and adding metal would have made more hard edges to cut it.

 

[joinerman]

Just had mine done,

 

[alia176]

I just did the same exact thing you're about to do. Some hints:

- remove the four bolts (per other thread) and separate the bottom cushion from the seat frame. Disconnect the seat belt wire first!
- the side switch plastic panel can be removed by pushing in plastic tabs.
- remove four bolts to also remove the back cushion from the seat frame.
- sit down on the dining table and then slowly work remove the old hog rings (twist and remove or simply cut)
- install the new hog rings and install the old leather.

This would be a good time to vacuum out the years of dust bunnies and crap out from under the seat and inside the seat frame!

Start to finish - about two hours.

See the pic for tools I used. My Ace hardware has hog rings and pliers but my pliers came from another source.

 

[uabericm]

Also, if you don't have hog rings or hog ring pliers, I attached mine using some small zip ties.

 

[Michael Hanson]

Fairly easy to do on mine. MIke

 

[AdventureBuddies]

Thank you. That is excellent information and is exactly what I was looking for.

I just did the same exact thing you're about to do. Some hints:

- remove the four bolts (per other thread) and separate the bottom cushion from the seat frame. Disconnect the seat belt wire first!
- the side switch plastic panel can be removed by pushing in plastic tabs.
- remove four bolts to also remove the back cushion from the seat frame.
- sit down on the dining table and then slowly work remove the old hog rings (twist and remove or simply cut)
- install the new hog rings and install the old leather.

This would be a good time to vacuum out the years of dust bunnies and **** out from under the seat and inside the seat frame!

Start to finish - about two hours.

See the pic for tools I used. My Ace hardware has hog rings and pliers but my pliers came from another source.

 

[alia176]

Thank you. That is excellent information and is exactly what I was looking for.

Any time, that's why we are here.

More info: the red plier in the picture has a big jaw so it was used to partially close the hog ring. Then I inserted the slightly closed hog ring into the seat cushion then finished it off with the other plier. This other plier has a smaller jaw but also a sharper nose so it can easily get really close to the hog ring that is now buried in the foam!

I first inserted all hog rings into the brand new foam then attached the leather to it. Then the leather flaps were tucked into the side of the foam and pinched using the metal frame hardware. You'll see what I mean once you start this project.

Good luck.

 

[p8nt]

What did the new foam set you back?

 

[jlg32281]

I just got a quote from Cdan on driver's seat foam and he quoted me $147.58. As soon as I sort our my seat fram issues, I'll be putting new foam and leather on the seats, it's going to be nice.

 

[onewhippedpuppy]

Also, if you don't have hog rings or hog ring pliers, I attached mine using some small zip ties.

Same here, it was incredibly easy. It also allows you to simply cut off the old hog rings with sidecutting pliers.

 

[AdventureBuddies]

Thanks to everyone for the advice. Finished yesterday. It was very staight forward and I feel like I have a whole new truck. Shoulda done it right from the start. Just by nature of sitting that little bit higher now, I feel like I have more legroom and the comfort is awesome.

 

[alia176]

Congrats! In my case the lumbar is hitting in the right spot on my lower back with the new cushion.

 

[AdventureBuddies]

Congrats! In my case the lumbar is hitting in the right spot on my lower back with the new cushion.

Me too. I always thought the lumbar adjustment was useless - now it's very comfortable.

 

[uabericm]

Me too. I always thought the lumbar adjustment was useless - now it's very comfortable.

I concur. I just wish I had added some extra support on the outer edge to keep the foam from slipping back inside the frame.

 

[jlg32281]

I concur. I just wish I had added some extra support on the outer edge to keep the foam from slipping back inside the frame.

Please elaborate. I'm about to do this and if I could improve mine, I would love to.

 

[uabericm]

I beleive you need to remove the cover and those tools. What you will find once in there is that the metal frame on the outside of the foam has cut into or possibly through the foam. It's from sliding in and out. You should cover those areas with some burlap or other material to protect the new foam from doing the same thing. I plan to pull my cover and see if I can weld a small strip of metal on those rods to act as a shelf and forgo the foam replacement.

Rebuilding the foam is an easy job. Even if I bought new i would have added some fabric to reinforce the area over the switches, without it the wires will cut into it again. This is what I did and has held up well;

https://forum.ih8mud.com/az-copper-state-cruisers/213566-%9180-series-seat-repair.html

Either of these are what I was thinking of. I think rebuilding the foam would be the easiest, but welding a small strip of metal would do the best job of keeping the foam from being cut and pressed into the frame of the seat.