Drive Flange Studs

[harrydunn]

Finished up my Birf job tonight but had an issue (we'll call it a "tool malfunction") and stripped a few drive flange studs. Local Toyota dealer was closed so I went to the hardware store and found some M8x1.25 studs that worked nicely. Replaced all 12 nuts as well. Studs were a bit longer than OEM but threaded right in. Put the flange back on, cone washers, etc. and torqued to 26 ft/lbs, Replaced snap ring, dust cover and called it a night for now.

Should I replace these "hardware store" studs with OEM? I'm guessing OEM may be hardened more but I've also heard of several on here replacing these studs with bolts, which I'm assuming they are getting down the street at their hardware store.

Thanks,

Mark

 

[IBCRUSN]

You answered your own question. The OEM studs are inexpensive insurance you won't have any trouble in the future.

 

[IdahoDoug]

Fortunately, these can literally be replaced with the wheels and tires on the ground. So, I'd replace them with the OEM studs due to the critical nature of these fasteners and ease of replacement. Note that simply removing the wheel's center cap gives you complete access to the studs. They don't bear vehicle weight, so pull the axle dust cap, snap ring, 6 nuts, 6 split washers, yank the drive plate, use vice grips to remove the studs and reassemble. I'd even consider buying new split washers and factory nuts if they weren't too pricey.

DougM

 

[harrydunn]

I'll try to remember to replace these when I check by wheel-bearing pre-load in a week or so. The hardware store studs seem pretty beefy to me for street driving in the meantime.

How many times is too many times to pop-off/pop-on the axle snap-ring before getting a new one? I've had the new snap-ring on/off a few times already when trying to figure out why I couldn't get the drive flange nuts to torque to 26 ft/lbs.

Is a new drive-flange gasket required every time the drive flange is removed (will be pulled off in 150 miles or so)?

Thanks.

 

[IdahoDoug]

The snap ring is reusable, so unless you bend it or it gets rusty you're good. The gasket is simply a thick paper so if it comes off in one piece it's fine to use. I put a smear of grease on mine.

DougM

 

[boodzman]

thats what i do too grease both sides(lightly) or glue one side and grease the other... it been good for me over the years

 

[86tuning]

you can also get ARP studs for these from trailgear and other vendors....

I'd go with whatever is quicker and cheaper to get ahold of. Genuine ones worked fine for 15 years, but ARPs will be stronger

 

[cruiserdan]

The OEM stud number is 90116-08325.

 

[OGBeno]

The OEM stud number is 90116-08325.

Wrong stud from my part. Disregard my comment.

 

[Kernal]

I added all new Toyota studs, nuts and some cone washers to my order after reading a few similar threads like this one while getting ready for the front axle service; the extra cost was hardly noticeable and well worth the peace of mind. Once I got everything apart I found about half of the hub studs had damage to one degree or another. FWIW.

 

[SHREDwagon]

ARP studs are the wrong length compared to OEM. Not enough thread on the inner side and too long on the outer star side. I used them on the rear but am pretty disappointed. I'll probably replace them with stock in the future as they stick out an extra inch from the rear axle flange.

 

[IBCRUSN]

ARP studs are the wrong length compared to OEM. Not enough thread on the inner side and too long on the outer star side. I used them on the rear but am pretty disappointed. I'll probably replace them with stock in the future as they stick out an extra inch from the rear axle flange.

Where did you order them from? Front Range Off-Road stocks ones that fit properly as well as ARP knuckle studs.

 

[SHREDwagon]

Cruiserparts.net
I was told over the phone that the ARP kit would fit an 80 FF rear. They stick out and inch passed the axle flange.