Double Cardon Front Shaft and no/medium lift - problem?

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I'm in the process of replacing my front drive shaft and have a question.

The price of an OEM shaft is about the same as the Slee double Cardon shaft. I certainly don't need the double cardon shaft (at most plan a medium lift), but does it makes sense to get it, given that the cost is basically the same?

Are there issues with running a D.C. shaft with no lift? Differences in build quality, etc?

Cheers, Hugh
 
Proper setup of a drive shaft with a double carden at one end requires pointing the pinion straight at the transfer case output shaft. A stock vehicle will not be set up like this.
 
Just for clarification, some of us are experiencing some driveline vibration, i think it has been stated that the rear driveshaft gets put at a greater angle after a lift much more so than the front since the front diff is a high pinion set-up. So, swapping out the rear with a double-cardan should eliminate these vibrations, or possibly replacing old U-joints with new.
 
Rich said:
Proper setup of a drive shaft with a double carden at one end requires pointing the pinion straight at the transfer case output shaft. A stock vehicle will not be set up like this.
True, but I wonder if it'll be a problem.

Curious but why are you replacing you front shaft? What part is bad? Most any driveshaft shop could replace any specific part of the shaft and be far cheaper than a entirely new one.

Good Luck,
Mark Brodis
 
good point mark. didn't even think to ask the obvious.
 
I have the Slee CV front driveshaft and am getting drive line vibrations from it with J springs, Slee front control arms, and only a rear Kaymar bumper with tire carrier and jerry can carrier. I do get less vibration than I would with the stock front driveshaft but it is still there. The vibration also is only when I'm not on the gas. After talking with Christo I'v decided my solution for this will be to lift the truck a little more. :D
 
mabrodis said:
True, but I wonder if it'll be a problem.

Curious but why are you replacing you front shaft? What part is bad? Most any driveshaft shop could replace any specific part of the shaft and be far cheaper than a entirely new one.

Good Luck,
Mark Brodis

Unfortunately, the sleeve yoke has a small chunk of metal missing where the spider bearing is seated - in two places

My sense from the above is that I'll stick with a used replacement or OEM

Cheers, Hugh
 
you might want to check around to see if someone on the board is considering upgrading to a CV joint and then you could pop a deal on the used straight shaft.
 

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