Door Vapor Guard

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Oct 28, 2004
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I removed the door panel to replace my speakers and found that the PO was in there. Half the vapor guard was missing!

I now plan to replaces the vapor-guard as well as the speakers.

Where can I get the sticky/tacky non-drying vapor-guard adhesive? I've already tried a couple local auto-parts store and they don't carry it. They barely know what I'm talking about....
 

CreeperSleeper

Cascade Cruisers
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I don't think any of my cars have had all of the "vapor-guards" (I had no idea that's what they were). I don't think that not having them is a big deal. Anyway, if you want them replaced, just use heavy sheet of plastic (like for a painting drop or a really cheap tarp... the kind you can sorta see thru) and use a flexable adheasive to attach it.
 
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Try an office supply store or Walmart and use the sticky poster adhesive that they have. It is white and designed to hang posters on painted walls without damaging the paint.
 
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Auto body shop supplier is the place to look for your adhesive.

3M manufactures a boat load of different adhesives. I would look at their site first.
 
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roncruiser said:
I removed the door panel to replace my speakers and found that the PO was in there.
Wow- there's one PO who just could not part with his truck! ;) (Sorry, couldn't help myself!)
 
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I think that black adhesive/sealant stuff might be similar to the 3M stuff that comes in strips in a box, I don't know the name, but I bought it at an autoparts store and it came in a blue box. Look in the body/paint/prep section of the auto parts store.
 
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The stuff Ben is talking about is cald Dum Dum tape, available at any auto parts store, it will work ok. However usually you have to buy an entire box of it. Mooker has a good idea though in the poster adhesive.
The proper body terminoligy for what the adhesive is a monkey snot. it never dries out and is kind of nasty to work with but it does seal well.
Dave
 
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The vapor guard is very important. My PO did the exact same thing, wish i could strangle the fella. I found out how important it was the hard way. After a heavy rain without it in place i could see water droplets seeping through every crevace of the door, out from around the handle, around the speaker, around where the leather part of the door meets the fabric, basically all through the door water was leaking. I ghetto fabbed up something by simply taking a piece of plastic and cutting it to shape and duct taped it in place. I will get the real stuff from Dan when i replace the speakers and put dynamat in the door.
 

snowcruiser

 
 
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Someone forgot to put a Vapor Barriar in one of my doors prior to me purchasing the truck and this turned out to be a major contributor to the water problem in my rocker panels so I would really make sure these things are intact and sealed well. I think the original installation used dum dum and I was able to talk my local body shop into giving me a sheet. Works very well for the application but the stuff is really hard to remove from your hands so wear gloves :(

Good luck!
 
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I plan to the have door dyanmatted by the end of the day. Gotta clean the residual adhesive goop off first. The vapor-guard is going back on after the dynamatting This is assuming I can get my hands on some "monkey snot" stuff.
 
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roncruiser said:
I plan to the have door dyanmatted by the end of the day. Gotta clean the residual adhesive goop off first. The vapor-guard is going back on after the dynamatting This is assuming I can get my hands on some "monkey snot" stuff.

Let me know how it turns out. I haven't decided if i want the vapor barrier on top of the dynamat or the dynamat on top of the vapor barrier. :confused:
 

lovetoski

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concretejungle said:
Let me know how it turns out. I haven't decided if i want the vapor barrier on top of the dynamat or the dynamat on top of the vapor barrier. :confused:
I've been wondering about this too, but had come to the conclusion that dynomat (or similar) would function as the vapor barrier - ie that it's waterproof. Am I missing something?
 
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Bought this stuff to tack on the plastic vapor-guard liner to the door::
*3M™ Window-Weld™ Round Ribbon Sealer 08620, 1/4 in x 15 ft Roll
*Excellent adhesion over temperature range 20F - 120F.

http://multimedia.mmm.com/mws/mediawebserver.dyn?VVVVVVDBN23V5yWVhyWVVVFb5fQzUUjV-

Got it at the local auto parts store. Good stuff!

I plan to put the dynamat under the vapor-guard. In other words, the dynamat will be directly attached to the metal of the door. Check this out:
http://www.crutchfieldadvisor.com/ISEO-rgbtcspd/learningcenter/car/vibration_installation.html?print=1&page=all
Though, in this example, the guy did not re-install the vapor-guard.

I'll let you know how it goes.
 
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My doors are dynamatted directly on the door with the vapor barrier on top. Be sure to dynamat the inner and outer door. Also do not skimp on the quanity and quality of the dynamat. The original dynamat is good but the extreme is better. You will notice a big difference after applying the dynamat. My doors thud shut witout a single rattle.
 
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Yes, I dynamtted the outer door skin, the inner skin, and the backside of the inner skin. All of this might not be necessary but I was doing a big stereo install so I erred on the overkill side.
 
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