Door panel rebuild questions

[digitalmarker]

Hey guys

In the process of rebuilding door panels, and ran into a couple of issues.

One is the cardboard backing - the slots where the door clips / trim retainer clips sit are pretty chewed up in some places. Is there anything that can be done to make them sturdier and retail the clip properly? Example of the carnage below:

The other question is about the plastic moisture barrier. I was able to use the sticky adhesive and the OEM barriers to reattach. However, there is a loose flap at the bottom of the plastic moisture barrier that is supposed to cover the opening where the wiring harness comes out. Not quite sure what to do with this piece - is it supposed to stay loose as pictured? I was able to run a bead of the sticky adhesive right above the opening where the harness comes out, but seems kind of odd that the flap would just stay loose like that. Feels kind of unfinished to leave it loose like that, but I can't find any clear photos that show how it's attached from the factory. Any tips or ideas?

Thanks in advance for the help!

 

[digitalmarker]

Also, if anyone has a picture of their moisture barrier attached to the door, with the door panel/trim removed, would much appreciate if you could DM it to me or post it here.

 

[Comet]

I have tried to use epoxy on the door card to "reinforce" the fibers but it is hit or miss and a temporary fix at best based on how the original damage was inflicted. If you go that route, slip some thin plastic wrap between the door card and the foam so it doesn't stick together and make it hard to insert the fastener. On Buster (signature line) I made new door cards out of stuff at Lowe's in the craft section. Same stuff just newer. YMMV.

 

[Tedward]

The plastic vapor barrier flap I think is supposed to be tucked inside the door. Guessing so water runs down and into the door and not the interior. At least that's how I'm remembering remembering it.

So no bead above it obviously.
The OEM stuff is butyl tape. Awsome stuff as it's still pliable and sticky. You can get more like it if you really want

 

[Tedward]

As for fixing up the wopped out holes in the press board door card I've not made anything work long term. Tape, crazy glue and whatever worked for a time.
Whoa, just thought of this... could use some of the butyl tape where the board is water damaged. That would keep it from vibrating and make a lil noise. Also, there is an Australian outfit that sells new door cards made of plastic, abs I think. That's my long term solution when I get to it.

 

[GeoRoss]

Hey guys

In the process of rebuilding door panels, and ran into a couple of issues.

One is the cardboard backing - the slots where the door clips / trim retainer clips sit are pretty chewed up in some places. Is there anything that can be done to make them sturdier and retail the clip properly? Example of the carnage below:

View attachment 2054427

The other question is about the plastic moisture barrier. I was able to use the sticky adhesive and the OEM barriers to reattach. However, there is a loose flap at the bottom of the plastic moisture barrier that is supposed to cover the opening where the wiring harness comes out. Not quite sure what to do with this piece - is it supposed to stay loose as pictured? I was able to run a bead of the sticky adhesive right above the opening where the harness comes out, but seems kind of odd that the flap would just stay loose like that. Feels kind of unfinished to leave it loose like that, but I can't find any clear photos that show how it's attached from the factory. Any tips or ideas?

View attachment 2054429


View attachment 2054430

Thanks in advance for the help!

I took some tin and shaped it to the diameter of the small end that is ripped with shears. Then I just superglued it on and clamped it. I covered the tin with duct tape so it doesn't scratch the door.

All my repairs have lasted for over a decade.

 

[Overland Tailor]

I've used a 2 part epoxy to repair any areas, but the key is to get the fastener out of the door metal without pulling it through the fiberboard.

I found that a larger plastic fastener removal tool works really well. I also took one and elongated the slot so that it will slide through the fastener properly. Then just pop the fastener out of the door metal without damage to the cards. The fastener tool, properly used will allow you to lever against the door and fastener, not the card.

If you remove the door panels by hand, without the tool, you are going to pull the fasteners out of the cards. No way around it. Just buy a $3 tool at your favorite auto place and remove them without damage.

Best,

john~