Door Lock Actuator Replacement

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I'm in need of at least one, would like to have a few on hand. If Jon is out, does anyone have an extra or two?

If you're still looking for door lock actuators, I have 5 that I ordered from @jonharris. I'll sell them to you for what I paid him. $35 for the lot, shipped.


...via IH8MUD app
 
Just replaced passenger side actuator and there's a very slight rattle when closing the door. This was at the bottom of the door...

image.jpg



Anyone remember where this goes? I really don't want to pull the other door panel looking for the match.

Thanks.
 
Well, noting like tearing all apart and then realizing that you don't have the brass collar on the shaft of the DC Motor. I took it off the old one, but the actual shaft is the wrong size. I order the motor 6 months ago and not sure how I got the wrong one or if the wrong one was sent to me. I put it all back together and will wait until next Saturday to do it again.

Of note, putting the clam shell in the front windshield on a hot day for 30 min helped release the clam shell. Using the spring punch worked well.


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Just replaced passenger side actuator and there's a very slight rattle when closing the door. This was at the bottom of the door...

View attachment 933254


Anyone remember where this goes? I really don't want to pull the other door panel looking for the match.

Thanks.

Hi. I had the same problem. Did you figure out where the part came from? Thanks
 
Not a big deal. It covers a nub end. You'll never know it's gone......
Thanks very much. I think I found out where it goes. There is a external nipple on the actuator motor case that leads to the inside rear of the motor. Maybe for condensation drainage or avoidance? My case had water inside, a lot, so much that the motor was very rusted and seized.

Now I am putting everything back together and would appreciate some help with a question: Does the lock actuator assembly go on the inside of the window guide or does it go on the outside of the window guide (outside being the outside of the Land Cruiser and inside being the passenger side of the door)? Thanks for all the post. They were invaluable.
 
Thanks very much. I think I found out where it goes. There is a external nipple on the actuator motor case that leads to the inside rear of the motor. Maybe for condensation drainage or avoidance? My case had water inside, a lot, so much that the motor was very rusted and seized.

Now I am putting everything back together and would appreciate some help with a question: Does the lock actuator assembly go on the inside of the window guide or does it go on the outside of the window guide (outside being the outside of the Land Cruiser and inside being the passenger side of the door)? Thanks for all the post. They were invaluable.

Outside, I remember it took some finagling (spelling?) to work it back behind the window guide. Then I realized it was pretty easy to just remove the single bolt holding the window guide. These might help:
Actuator1.JPG Actuator2.JPG
 
Hey guys, just started another thread on this asking about the correct actuator motors. I'm seeing this @jonharris all the time having some spares, how does one get through to this guy?

If you're still looking for door lock actuators, I have 5 that I ordered from @jonharris. I'll sell them to you for what I paid him. $35 for the lot, shipped.


...via IH8MUD app

If you still have some I'll take a couple just to be safe. Thanks!

-Pete
 
I have sold all of my spare lock motors...
 
Well, thought I'd post as another member successfully completing the actuator fix! I took it all apart today and everything went back together smoothly. The only hiccup I ran into was having the wrong motor (LC had ones with no collar, I ordered ones with collar). However, I took the cap off the old motor and replaced in with a cap from the one of my new ones and everything seems to be fine! You can imagine my relief as I really didn't want to have to put everything back together, order another motor, and re-do this all over again.

A thanks to everyone who contributed to those post, saved me a bunch of money and it was a fun DIY.
 
Did anyone have the issue where the alarm system stopped recognizing that your door is unlocked after you did the surgery to replace to actuator motor?

I replaced the lil motors in 3 doors including my front driver door. It worked fine for a couple months, but now if I unlock just the driver door and open it, the alarm goes off.
 
Did anyone have the issue where the alarm system stopped recognizing that your door is unlocked after you did the surgery to replace to actuator motor?

I replaced the lil motors in 3 doors including my front driver door. It worked fine for a couple months, but now if I unlock just the driver door and open it, the alarm goes off.

I replaced mine a few weeks ago and haven't noticed that issue. However, I'll let you know if anything happens.
 
Did anyone have the issue where the alarm system stopped recognizing that your door is unlocked after you did the surgery to replace to actuator motor?

I replaced the lil motors in 3 doors including my front driver door. It worked fine for a couple months, but now if I unlock just the driver door and open it, the alarm goes off.

Sounds like your remote isn't syncing properly. You probably just need to resync your remote. There is a thread on the forum that has the steps depending on which model year you have:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/programming-a-transponder-key-for-99-tlc.14088/page-5
 
I have been through every thread I can find on this subject, on multiple forums, and cannot find the specific answer for the motor for an '04 LX. I'm looking at the FC-280PC-22125 FLAT SHAFT.

I know you can mod the shaft with the collar (round shaft) but I would prefer to buy the correct original part if able. If I read it right, you remove the collar and flatten the shaft on one side? Which would mean that this is the right part FC-280PC-22125 FLAT SHAFT, that requires no mods?

Can someone confirm? I'm currently deployed (internet connectivity is not that great...) and trying to get the motors delivered before I get home so I can tackle this on the wife's DD. TIA!

EDIT - After looking at zinky86's site on ebay if appears there are 4 options.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mabuchi-Nic...t=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item19e2f867f0
round shaft - standard length
round shaft - extended length
round shaft - brass collar standard length
flat shaft - standard length

Which leads me to believe it is the flat shaft standard length that I'm looking for. I'll report back when I get the door apart if I don't hear anything first.

Great thread!
 
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I was able to get the actuator out but for the life of me I couldn't get it to open up to access the motor inside. I looked through the thread and it seems like people have been sticking them in the oven to soften up glue?

Pretty easy job though, thanks everyone for the write up and information. Love taking money out of the dealers pocket. :)
 
Did anyone have the issue where the alarm system stopped recognizing that your door is unlocked after you did the surgery to replace to actuator motor?

I replaced the lil motors in 3 doors including my front driver door. It worked fine for a couple months, but now if I unlock just the driver door and open it, the alarm goes off.
 
Hey poopy there is a collar behind each lock telling the system where the lock is..its a white plastic piece behind each door lock including the tailgate.
 

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