Door Lock Actuator Replacement

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Hello,

I due for the dreaded door lock actuator replacement. Actually, this site and a you tube video should make it a lot easier - thanks very much. Now for my question: once the actuator actually stops working, can I still open the door (and lock it) manually? Sorry for the dumb question, but I don't now when I'll actually get around to the repair.
 
door lock actuator

I read this post will this work on a 2000 toyota celica? Is the link to the motors is that the same motor in the celica? Thank You
 
George 2000 said:
Hello,

I due for the dreaded door lock actuator replacement. Actually, this site and a you tube video should make it a lot easier - thanks very much. Now for my question: once the actuator actually stops working, can I still open the door (and lock it) manually? Sorry for the dumb question, but I don't now when I'll actually get around to the repair.
Click to expand...

Yes. The actuator is only utilized when the button on the arm rest or the keyless is used. You can still lock/unlock the door utilizing the interior lock by the handle and the exterior lock with the key on the front doors and rear tailgate. Those methods manually do the job of the actuator.

2butterbeans said:
I read this post will this work on a 2000 toyota celica? Is the link to the motors is that the same motor in the celica? Thank You
Click to expand...

It's been determined that the actuator is similar in many Toyota models. It may need some modification but it's worth a shot compared to the potential cost of doing a complete assembly replacement. I'd be willing to sell you a single to test and report back. PM if interested.
 
has anybody found a source for the whole actuator? I broke the plastic shell and the lock only locks, but doesn't unlock. I have found it here... but as part of the lock assembly # 69030-60081 $243.09 at website, ToyotaPartSales.com

Has anyone found a source for just the actuator itself (see pictured....no part number I can find)

thanks for any help.
actuator.webp
 
Trunk Monkey said:
It's called out as the whole assembly, same part # you posted, on the parts diagram.
Click to expand...

thanks, oh well, here goes $240 bucks for a $10 piece of plastic I need.....
 
Trunk Monkey said:
Get it from beno, you'll get a great discount.
Click to expand...

yeah emailed cdan and jacque earlier

petrotk40 said:
Have you tried super gluing it ?
Click to expand...

yeah did that last month when I replaced the motor...cracked the shell pretty good...heat caused it to come undone. I figured a new one would help hold the tension of the wires better anyway.
 
jonharis said:
Sounds like classic actuator failure syndrome. I assume the following is true?

You can lock the door with the Key.
You can manually lock the door from the interior.
The manual lever does not work or is very sluggish when you use the auto lock button.
Click to expand...

driver side only acts up when baking in hot sun or in the summer...

BUT using key in the drivers door does NOT lock /unlock the drivers door only the other doors...what gives?
 
just finished the driver's door, took about two hours. removing the brass connecting rods required gently releasing the pink and white plastic clips that act as guides.

as mentioned, you need to re-fasten the black bezel around the motor or the play will allow the motor to "freewheel". i just applied superglue.

i ended up loosening two bolts that, given the tension i realized they were under after loosening, were part of the window regulator.

now the driver's window is pretty slow going down the last 1/3 of the way.

Anyone else encounter this problem?
Any thoughts on how to correct?

Cardy
 
Add me to the long list of thankful people the OP has helped with this post. For just a few bucks I have a door lock that's working like new! Thanks!

Like the last poster, I used superglue to fasten the plastic back together because I wanted strong, instant results. Next time (on the other doors) I think I'll use something less drastic.
 
cardyjones said:
i ended up loosening two bolts that, given the tension i realized they were under after loosening, were part of the window regulator.

now the driver's window is pretty slow going down the last 1/3 of the way.

Anyone else encounter this problem?
Any thoughts on how to correct?

Cardy
Click to expand...

I replaced the window regulator while I was in to do the lock motor and my only advice would be to just throw in a new regulator (assuming you tightened those two bolts back up). I lucked out and snagged a new regulator on Amazon - Prime delivery - at $17 instead of the normal $50. I lubed the tracks and shot some grease in the gear housing of the old motor. Window is now solid and moving like new. The window regulator job is much easier than the actuator motor job.
 
I tackled this today on drivers door. I broke the yellow clip, but was able to use an old wall anchor bolt to retain the metal. It clipped right into the hole.
image-3482222860.webp
 
SanDiegoCruiser said:
I tackled this today on drivers door. I broke the yellow clip, but was able to use an old wall anchor bolt to retain the metal. It clipped right into the hole.
Click to expand...

Nice, always like when a fix like that is found.
 
I have a 94 Toyota Corolla and I can not get the passenger side door unlocked or get the door open. It will not unlock with the any door unlock button. All 3 of the other doors will unlock. Can not pull up the tab/button to unlock the door. Can not unlock it with the key from outside, key will only turn to the lock direction. So the question is how do I get the door unlocked to open the door to get the inside panel off. It will be a major pain to try to remove the panel with the door locked and closed.
 
You are going to probably have to take your door apart. It sounds like the rod that connects the locking mechanism has become disconnected. I know nothing about how one does this for your car. Search around the web..
 
This is a very good long thread and I used it as a guide & replaced the motor of the door lock actuator / driver's side (1999 LX470) at 132,000 miles for $5 (4 motors for $20 at eBay shipped)... I used hair dryer for 5 minutes to loosen up the old glue... then used 'superglue' to put them together... 30 minutes later after installing it on the door, actuator did not work... somehow, I unwittingly dropped a piece of the metal part (when I opened the actuator) that drives the white plastic wheels & found it in the tool bin... I was afraid I won't be able to pry out the actuator after using superglue and the hair dryer did its charm... I put back the metal part & door lock actuator is working fine now. thank you guys for all the postings!
 
I have read thru this thread. If I understand correct, the consensus is to use superglue to hold the black clamshell halves together after replacing the actuator motor. Has anyone tried small bolts and nuts? (Or did I miss it somewhere?)

Edit; I now see why. Best is to oven-cook the black thingy for 5-10 minutes at about 300. Pry it apart. Once the motor is re-installed, glue it back together w/ super glue. Mine went well until I broke one of the tabs that has a screw hole in it. DISASTER!!

Now the whole thing is fouled, because the relative position of the black thingy to the metal part that it is attached to is IMPORTANT!! I wrapped the whole mess with copper wire to hold it all together. I re-assmebled it all. What a Rube Goldberg operation! It looked goofy, but it works.

I had two doors not working; both driver side doors. I re-worked the back one, now I have to tackle the front.

Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread.
 
Last edited:
Bump.

I used this thread as well as the door panel removal thread.

Great stuff.
 
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