door lock actuator remove and replace? (3 Viewers)

[landcruiser3DP]

gents.
apologies for the multiple posts on this one. power lock works but door handle is not opening the door from inside or outside. any ideas? longer explanation below.
<EDIT: sorry. OUTSIDE handle works. inside handle does NOT work.>
-
i’m testing the left rear door lock after installing a new lock actuator and i’m not sure if i need to “set” the lock mechanism at the end of the door or if i need to reattach the wires with the handle extended (or something) or if i have something out of place (or all three).
right now with the doors closed the rear will now lock and unlock when i use the DS controls (previously the rear DS only worked manually).
BUT when i try to /unlock/ the door with either the interior handle or the exterior handle it will not open even though the door lock thing is in the unlocked position.
i did feed the exterior door handle out with the whole assembly because i couldn’t get one wire unhooked but i am hoping i don’t have to get it and re-arrange great whole set of mechanisms inside the sheet metal if at all possible.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

two more pics

 

[landcruiser3DP]

duh. child proof safety lock was on. time to button her back up!

 

[IoN6]

Do you or anyone happen to have the front actuator part numbers? Or know if the rear parts are the same as the fronts? My drivers front takes 3-5 lock/unlocks to lock or unlock. Getting worse and worse...

 

[landcruiser3DP]

look it up and post it to the thread. or call someone on the forum that sells parts.
toyodiy.com
toyotaparts.com

 

[Cruiser804]

So went a different route based on some other post from the 100 series section as my motor was burned up. If you open up the actuator per the Texas Know How video the motor is easy to replace and cost like 6 bucks on Amazon.
Motor FC-280PC-22125

I bought this tool to pull the gear. You can find them cheaper but the less expensive ones are shipped from China. Last item I ordered from China never showed up.

The first picture shows the original motor. You can see the shaft has splines (?). You can see in the second picture the new motor does not have splines. Third picture shows the gear soldered on. A small zip tie between the gear and the motor kept the gear in the right location for soldering and was easily cut off after the gear was secured. If there is a better to do this way I am open to instruction. New motor also does not have the little bridge that the wires attach to. Mind the polarity!! I had to switch the wires at the plug because the way I attached the wires cause the lock to unlock when all the other locks locked. It is a tight fit putting the motor back it. Put in the wire end first and it will go in fine. Definitely louder that the others but works like a champ .

 

[landcruiser3DP]

So went a different route based on some other post from the 100 series section as my motor was burned up. If you open up the actuator per the Texas Know How video the motor is easy to replace and cost like 6 bucks on Amazon.
Motor FC-280PC-22125

I bought this tool to pull the gear. You can find them cheaper but the less expensive ones are shipped from China. Last item I ordered from China never showed up.
View attachment 1982180
The first picture shows the original motor. You can see the shaft has splines (?). You can see in the second picture the new motor does not have splines. Third picture shows the gear soldered on. A small zip tie between the gear and the motor kept the gear in the right location for soldering and was easily cut off after the gear was secured. If there is a better to do this way I am open to instruction. New motor also does not have the little bridge that the wires attach to. Mind the polarity!! I had to switch the wires at the plug because the way I attached the wires cause the lock to unlock when all the other locks locked. It is a tight fit putting the motor back it. Put in the wire end first and it will go in fine. Definitely louder that the others but works like a champ .
View attachment 1982181
View attachment 1982183
View attachment 1982193
View attachment 1982194

thanks for the add here. i saw that after i did mine. good to have a step by step!

two things you made me think about.

first. does anyone know for a fact if you can rehab the rear actuator as shown by @Cruiser804 and use it in the front or vice versa? meaning are all the lefts the same and all the rights the same. or are there four separate items?

also. if you buy new go with rockauto and save yourself $100 ($100!) off most other places.

 

[Cruiser804]

I would assume that all the actuators are "handed" just like the window motors. you can buy after market actuators for 50-100.00
96 1996 Toyota Land Cruiser Door Lock Actuator - Body Mechanical & Trim - Aisin, Dorman, Replacement, SKP, Standard Motor Products, Rear Left, Rear Right - PartsGeek
But I would assume the the motors as I describe are the same.

BTW here's the 3rd picture from above. I'd posted too many pictures.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

I would assume that all the actuators are "handed" just like the window motors. you can buy after market actuators for 50-100.00
96 1996 Toyota Land Cruiser Door Lock Actuator - Body Mechanical & Trim - Aisin, Dorman, Replacement, SKP, Standard Motor Products, Rear Left, Rear Right - PartsGeek
But I would assume the the motors as I describe are the same.

BTW here's the 3rd picture from above. I'd posted too many pictures.

View attachment 1982316

good stuff. can never have too many pictures...

handed meaning there is a left and a right actuator i guess. in which case i will probably follow your instructions for doing the left rear to have on hand in case the front goes.

i guess (hate to ask) but if you had a link for that tool i would probably buy it to do mine.

also! here is rock auto. i think it is aisin which may be direct replacement for OEM (correction: aisin is $43)? i’d have a really really nice bottle of scotch on the shelf if i hadn’t shopped (in order of highest cost) NAPA, toyota dealer and then lexus dealer (where i cadged vendor pricing) and bought at lexus.

$31 bucks at rock auto and i think NAPA wanted like $150...

1997 TOYOTA LAND CRUISER 4.5L L6 Door Lock Actuator | Shop Now at RockAuto

Body & Lamp Assembly Parts and More for Your 1997 TOYOTA LAND CRUISER at Reliably Low Prices. Fast Online Catalog. DIY-Easy. Your Choice of Quality. Full Manufacturer Warranty.

www.rockauto.com

<edit: ran across this for the motor posted above “door lock actuator motor: Mabuchi part number fc-280pt-22125”>

 

[BnvS]

So went a different route based on some other post from the 100 series section as my motor was burned up. If you open up the actuator per the Texas Know How video the motor is easy to replace and cost like 6 bucks on Amazon.
Motor FC-280PC-22125

I bought this tool to pull the gear. You can find them cheaper but the less expensive ones are shipped from China. Last item I ordered from China never showed up.
View attachment 1982180
The first picture shows the original motor. You can see the shaft has splines (?). You can see in the second picture the new motor does not have splines. Third picture shows the gear soldered on. A small zip tie between the gear and the motor kept the gear in the right location for soldering and was easily cut off after the gear was secured. If there is a better to do this way I am open to instruction. New motor also does not have the little bridge that the wires attach to. Mind the polarity!! I had to switch the wires at the plug because the way I attached the wires cause the lock to unlock when all the other locks locked. It is a tight fit putting the motor back it. Put in the wire end first and it will go in fine. Definitely louder that the others but works like a champ .
View attachment 1982181
View attachment 1982183

Hey @Cruiser804 how did you fit the worm Gear back on to the motor.. was it easy to just put it on the new motor shaft? or did you have to Heat the worm gear and then fit it back on to the Shaft? I cannot find anywhere on the internet on how to fit the gear back on the shaft..

I have ordered the Gear removal kit you have and a similar motor you have with the straight shaft. I am guessing I need to get gear out from my old motor and put it back on to the new motor and put it back together. Hope this works. I love fixing things that are needed instead of buying a whole new DLA assembly.

TIA.

Thanks

 

[Cruiser804]

its been a while since I did this but IIRC I did not have to heat it but it may have required some encouragement

 

[Seabert]

i should have tried it when off the vehicle i guess. but this one looks different to me. maybe WD 40 would have worked. mine didn’t seem like it would go anywhere.

View attachment 1970144

Reviving this in hopes somebody has advice for getting this bugger off. Flipped up the yellow clip, but WD40 didn’t do the trick for me, and this rod does not want to come off. Anybody else struggle before finally getting it off?

 

[Kernal]

IIRC, looking at the photo below, first push/pull the top of the yellow clip away from the rod (to the left) while holding the rod
with one hand and pulling the yellow tabs that run along the side of the rod with the other.

Then pinch the round plastic halves that encircle the short section of rod that goes though the hole in the black plastic piece.

You may need a small pair of needle nose pliers to squeeze the clip halves together inward toward the rod, then push/pull the short section of rod out with the yellow clip (push them both out together from the black plastic in the photo below).

 

[Seabert]

IIRC, looking at the photo below, first push/pull the top of the yellow clip away from the rod (to the left) while holding the rod
with one hand, pulling the yellow tabs that run along the side of the rod with the other.

Then pinch the round plastic halves that encircle the short section of rod that goes though the hole in the black plastic piece.

You may need a small pair of needle nose pliers to squeeze the clip halves together inward toward the rod, then push/pull the short section of rod out with the yellow clip (push them both out together from the black plastic in the photo below).

View attachment 3946746

Thanks Kernal. I tried the pliers but the yellow clip doesn’t squeeze through for me either. I ended up removing the entire door handle like OP did to get the actuator out. Oh well!

 

[Devils Paw 80]

Thanks Kernal. I tried the pliers but the yellow clip doesn’t squeeze through for me either. I ended up removing the entire door handle like OP did to get the actuator out. Oh well!

Yup, I did that too a couple weeks ago.

 

[Kernal]

@Seabert : The silver lining is that with the (front) door handle removed you clean the lock cylinder a bit easier with an aerosol cleaner, ie: blast the cylinder clean via the key slot, tap, turn the key, spray, tap, repeat, repeat, repeat, followed by re-lubing the lock cylinder.

IME the original grease will have turned to something like candle wax by now, so removing that dried out grease followed by a quality lock lube you'll be good for a long time. FWIW KRYTOX (PTFE) grease won't ever dry out, it's expensive but you don't need much. I disassembled the driver's side door lock cylinder on my 96 Model 14 years ago, cleaned and lubed the cylinder with KRYTOX, and it's still smooth as butter.

For those who've never seen what the original door lock cylinder looks like after 20+ years:

One choice for a PTFE grease with a moisture resistant thickener:

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

Also, check the door handle for cracks, the part where your fingers grab when you open the door (inner aspect) now's a good time to fix that (or replace the entire handle) while it's removed from the door. FWIW

 

[Seabert]

@Seabert : The silver lining is that with the (front) door handle removed you clean the lock cylinder a bit easier with an aerosol cleaner, ie: blast the cylinder clean via the key slot, tap, turn the key, spray, tap, repeat, repeat, repeat, followed by re-lubing the lock cylinder.

IME the original grease will have turned to something like candle wax by now, so removing that dried out grease followed by a quality lock lube you'll be good for a long time. FWIW KRYTOX (PTFE) grease won't ever dry out, it's expensive but you don't need much. I did disassembled the driver's side door lock cylinder 14 years ago, cleaned a lube with KRYTOX, and it's still smooth as butter.

For those who've never what the original door lock cylinder looks like after 20+ years:



View attachment 3947386


One choice for a PTFE grease with a moisture resistant thickener:

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

Also, check the door handle for cracks, the part where your fingers grab when you open the door (inner aspect) now's a good time to fix that (or replace the entire handle) while it's removed from the door. FWIW

My lock cylinder sure feels like it could use a cleaning. And with how weak the locks are especially on hot days, I think I’ll be taking apart the all doors to look them over and give them a god cleaning. The one I already did was pretty gunked up. Thanks for the tip!

 

[Kernal]

@Seabert : Check the door lock actuators while you're in there, the grease there also gets dried out over the years.
Then there's the windows regulators, ditto, clean and grease (plastic compatible).

A new Toyota window (glass) regulator comes with a yellow grease that appears to be Toyota's (yellow) Body Grease which may be repackaged Dupont YM103 ie: KRYTOX.

08887-02007. Only downside is that it's crazy expensive (the price would makes sense if it's repackaged KRYTOX):

Another less expensive low temperature grease that won't harden is Molykote 33 Medium which is a lithium base silicone grease and plastic compatible:

MOLYKOTE® 33 Medium Extreme Low Temperature Grease

NLGI Grade 2 - Silicone-based grease with a base oil viscosity of 76 cSt at 40°C, lithium-thickened, with no solid lubricants.

www.dupont.com