Door Lock Actuator HZJ77

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They will come back and say NLA I am sure.

Edit: look closer at the inventory level for the part number on the Amayama site. Not even in stock.
 
They will come back and say NLA I am sure.

Edit: look closer at the inventory level for the part number on the Amayama site. Not even in stock.
Correct these are NLA. I've resigned to putting a 12v motor in the assembly and wire in a 24v to 12v step down. I've exhausted all the other alternatives.
 
Good news, I now have a functioning front passenger door lock. I ended up soldering in the same Mabuchi DC motor the 80 and 100 series use and it works well.

Thanks for everyone's help, especially Dave who took the time to investigate all options.

Is the barn door supposed to be on the power door lock circuit? My drawing shows it to be a manual lock. Is that the case or do I have another bad motor?

EF152DDB-2D3B-4A30-9126-A3208B9A9FE5.jpeg


274500E6-0F0F-47C0-83A6-D1E2AFF5FA42.jpeg
 
Good news, I now have a functioning front passenger door lock. I ended up soldering in the same Mabuchi DC motor the 80 and 100 series use and it works well.

Thanks for everyone's help, especially Dave who took the time to investigate all options.

Is the barn door supposed to be on the power door lock circuit? My drawing shows it to be a manual lock. Is that the case or do I have another bad motor?

View attachment 3014301

View attachment 3014302
Barn door should also lock automatically. I have a ZX trim 73 and all locks are part of the circuit.
 
Barn door should also lock automatically. I have a ZX trim 73 and all locks are part of the circuit.
Thanks. Looks like I have another door to work on.
 
Good news, I now have a functioning front passenger door lock. I ended up soldering in the same Mabuchi DC motor the 80 and 100 series use and it works well.

Thanks for everyone's help, especially Dave who took the time to investigate all options.

Is the barn door supposed to be on the power door lock circuit? My drawing shows it to be a manual lock. Is that the case or do I have another bad motor?

View attachment 3014301

View attachment 3014302

Hello:

Can you help with the link to buy the motor? please
I have a 2006 LC and need to fix right door actuator.
I found some in ebay, but not sure about shaft length and if shaft need to be flat or round...

Thanks!
 
Hello:

Can you help with the link to buy the motor? please
I have a 2006 LC and need to fix right door actuator.
I found some in ebay, but not sure about shaft length and if shaft need to be flat or round...

Thanks!
Here's the link to the 100 series thread:

 
Here's the link to the 100 series thread:

Thank you!... I just ordered a couple of motors!
 
For anyone curious, this repair worked perfectly. The motors that @Supra88 referenced are spot on and fit perfectly.

I used this method to mount the brass gear on the shaft. I'd also recommend roughing up the shaft. It gives the solder something to lock into to prevent rotation.



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Long term update on this thread:

The SOLDER method is still holding strong on the front door. Additionally, the 12V lock actuator motor is still holding up even in a 24V system. I will consider that a permanent solution.

The LOCTITE method failed after 3 years. The gear started spinning on the shaft. The 12V motor is still strong though.

Instead of repairing the shaft and motor yet again, I just swapped the entire lock assembly out for the 12V version. i.e. swap 69110-60080 (24V) for 69110-60071 (12V). As long as your kids are not hitting the locks like rabid chihuahuas, the 12V motors should hold up just fine.
 
Thanks for the update Wes!
 
I found a much easier solution to my problem. I had a bad actuator on the right rear door for my HZJ77.

Bought this from Amazon. Cheap, available, and built by the original manufacturer. Works great a year later on 24v with daily use. It's a direct fit other than the electrical connection. Just pull the pins out of your original actuator and swap the plastic connector onto the new pins.


I hope someone finds this helpful.

 

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