Door key lock won't turn

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I would just get another barrel and move your tumblers into it. Also I don't remember any issues with c clips, though I vaguely remember pulling the whole handle out of the door then removing the lock cylinder. Might be wrong on those details tho.


Yeah, pull the whole handle out. Two 10mm bolts and pop off the two linkage arms and it's out. The key barrel is held in by another 10mm bolt and a tiny Philips screw.
 
+1 for having luck using a bit of WD40 to free up a stuck front door lock cylinder. Sprayed some on the key, a bit into the cylinder itself and gently pushed the key in and out a few times then slowly turned it back and forth... got it working.

Not a substitute for pulling it apart and giving it a real clean... but definitely will get you by while you wait for new door lock motors to arrive so you only have to pull the door cards off once :)

My new issue is the rear hatch mechanism disconnected from the lock cylinder so now the key wont work
 
To free up a sticking door lock cylinder (the quick way) not related to a worn key I've used CRC Lectra-Motive Electronic parts cleaner (tall red can); stick the red tube into the key slot and give it a couple of good squirts. That will blow through all the pins cleaning out the old hardened original lube or anything else that's been put in there. Hold a rag around the red tube to catch any backspray.

If you have OCD then remove the door panel, peel down the vapor barrier,
then spray the cleaner into the lock cylinder while holding a rag over the cylinder from the inside, work the key, etc, or remove the cylinder and then clean it.

Follow that up with a lock lube of your choice (I use Krytox but it's crazy expensive). Reason for using the Electronic parts cleaner (instead of Carb/Brake cleaner) is that it won't melt plastic or damage paint instantly like those others will.

Here's a link to a way too wordy thread about how to pull a door lock cylinder apart and cleaning it up. I had the door handle out already to fix a crack in the handle so went ahead and pulled the cylinder apart.

Personally I don't however recommend pulling a cylinder all the way apart just for cleaning as it is way too easy to lose the tiny springs for the pins. If you have the cylinder out of the door/handle and in your hand then just blasting it with any solvent while inserting and turning the key then relubing will do the job IMO.


FWIW
 
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To free up a sticking door lock cylinder (the quick way) I've used CRC Electronics cleaner (tall red can); stick the red tube into the slot/key door and give it a couple of good squirts. That will blow through all the pins cleaning out the old hardened original lube or anything else that's been put in there. Hold a rag around the red tube to catch any backspray.

If you have OCD then remove the door panel, peel down the vapor barrier,
then spray the cleaner into the lock cylinder while holding a rag over the cylinder from the inside, work the key, etc, or remove the cylinder and then clean it.

Follow that up with a lock lube of your choice (I use Krytox but it's crazy expensive). Reason for using the Electronics cleaner (instead of Carb/Brake cleaner) is that it won't melt plastic or damage paint instantly like those others will.

Here's a link to a way too wordy thread about how to pull a door lock cylinder apart and cleaning it up. I had the door handle out already to fix a crack in the handle so went ahead and pulled the cylinder apart.

Personally I don't however recommend pulling a cylinder all the way apart just for cleaning as it is way to easy to lose the tiny springs for the pins. If you have the cylinder out of the door/handle and in your hand then just blasting it with
any solvent while inserting and turning the key then relubing will do the job IMO.


FWIW

Some of us like fiddling with small assemblies :) I for example, like working on mechanical watches.. so if I have the door apart, I am sure as sheet going to take the cylinder apart and clean it + relube it. but I am not particularly sane :grinpimp:
 
WD-40 works *way* better than the graphite/silicone lubes.

Try that first; if it doesn't work then it's new key time.
Hi. I'm brand new here. For my 1994, my local locksmith recommended the same (WD-40) and found that the sole existing, non-original, non-OEM key had an improperly cut shoulder. He cut a few new blanks until he got one to work all three locks and the ignition pretty well.
 

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