Door Jamb Switch for Dome Light, 84231-12070 (1 Viewer)

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Edit--- added pictures

I just took mine apart, and put it back together in about 15 min to take some pictures. I'm uploading pictures now, I'll add them later. Here's some instructions, the pictures will help but maybe you can figure it out.

1. remove the switch and remove the rubber cover

2. There are three "heatstake" nubs. Cut off the three nubs with a sharp knife or side cutters or maybe a tiny sharp screwdriver. Just gently cut them and get them started breaking apart, once you start to pull off the metal plate they'll come off. These are one of those things that make manufacturing easier but are not needed in use. Once assembled in the door, the metal plate and bolt are what hold things together.

3. Take off the metal plate. The sliding nub and it's contacts and the spring are now free to come out. PUT THE SPRING SOMEWHERE SAFE! (don't ask!!!)

4. The actual copper foil in the nub will come out, it's obvious. Take it out to clean it if you want.

5. The other end that is still attached to the wire has the other electrical contact. You might be able to push in it's tab and get it out for cleaning. Mine have never come out, I just clean them in place.
Edit---I don't think those actually come out, after looking at the pictures I think it's molded in to the plastic.
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5. Clean, lube, and reassemble. If you didnt' totally destroy the nubs they'll help align things to get it all back together.

Once it's all apart you might be able to rub a pencil eraser in there or something like that and polish it back up to get it working again. It doesn't take much to get it working ususally. Maybe even just clean off the old grease and re-grease it.

Seems complicated but goes really quick once you've done one. I've done 12 now (13 if you count the one I just took apart to take pictures). And, nothing to be too worried about because if you break the first one figuring it out, well you were gonna buy one anyway!!

I've never used the cleaning stuff mentioned, but salt and vinegar warmed up can leave beautiful shiny copper sometimes. I'm out of time for today, but I found the mixture and videos on youtube for that.

good luck
 
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This should get posted to the FAQ's. Great write-up, and pictures! I know it's helped me, and I can only imagine how many other Mudders' appreciate it.
 
Lol..... where's the "thrill of the hunt" with buying new?! Lol
I actually have them in my cart now. Just haven't decided if I need anything else. Thanks for helping with the decision.
 
Just picked them up!


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I took mine apart last night.....20 minutes for both to take apart, hit metal contacts w/ qtip dipped in rubbing alcohol, and hit metal contacts "lightly" with wire brush in my drill..... now ALL my door switches work! Thank you again BigO!!
 
Pulled a wide variety of Toyota switches from the junkyard...this "cut and clean" method looks simpler than "hunt and splice."

On it now.
 
Why wouldn't you just buy new switches for $18?

In our case, were at the pick&pull, getting other stuff, so pulled a bunch of them. When needed, it's handy to have spares and free beats $16 and having to go get or wait on them.:hillbilly:
 
Where is the rear hatch switch located (on a '97)?

I cleaned and reassembled left passenger switch and no love. Need to find a the schematic; anyone have experience/ideas?
 
Can take hatch latch assembly apart to replace the switch.
Need to remove the interior plastic to unplug it. Unbolt and remove it.
Grind off the rivet heads and then bolt or tack it back together. Just did this a month ago.
You can get a new assembly too.
It's just I already had the switch so ended up searching for and finding switch in the latch thing.
 
I've found part number 84231-12070 mentioned in a few threads. Is the part number the same for the front and rear doors? From memory it seems that the front and rear doors have a different pig tail length but it's been a decade since I've looked.
Thanks,
Mo

EDIT:
For closure,

According to the local dealer...84231-60020 is for the rear but it's now the referenced part number for both the front and rear.

The pigtails in the front are shorter but everything else is the same. There's plenty of room in the front B-pillar to accommodate the longer pigtail.

These are the switches on the main doors, not the hatch correct?
 
Can take hatch latch assembly apart to replace the switch.
Need to remove the interior plastic to unplug it. Unbolt and remove it.
Grind off the rivet heads and then bolt or tack it back together. Just did this a month ago.
You can get a new assembly too.
It's just I already had the switch so ended up searching for and finding switch in the latch thing.

Cool. Good to know how to do this if needed.

My current issue appears to be isolated to the left pass. door switch. Will try a different switch; or, better yet, test current switch with multimeter.
 
I've got a jamb switch the PO disassembled w/o the contacts or plunger that I'm looking to replace. I looked at both rear switches, but the feed wire appears to be connected inside the rear wheel well area. A slight tug doesn't give any slack to find the connection. Anyone have a picture of where the door jamb switch connector is located?

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