Door Fit Problem (1 Viewer)

[xumFJ40]

Hey Gang,

I am working on making a set of hard half doors and before I cut them down I tried to fit them up.

My truck is a 75 FJ40 and the doors are the early model doors with the top window frames removed.

I replaced the strikers to the later model ones to match the doors, but I can't seem to get the doors to shut.

They seem to be about 1/16th to 1/8th off...the catch in the door is just short of catching the striker.

And yes...I tried moving the strikers out (towards the door) as much as possible.

Anyway, just wondering if any of you have run into this before and what your solutions were.

Thanks,

 

[Poser]

Not clear on the issue....


Does the striker need to move outboard more...as in washers behind the striker, or outboard more...as in opening up the mounting holes so that it can slide more?


When I mounted my 'glass half-doors, I needed to shim the later-style striker away from the body so that the catch would work properly...



Good luck!


-Steve

 

[pygpen]

FWIW, I have a 4/75 FJ40 and have had no problems running the early doors, two different pairs + my half doors.
PMK

 

[xumFJ40]

Steve,

The issue would be that the striker would need to be moved outboard more as in opening up the mounting holes (which I id not think of) or trimming the back side of the catch on the doors so that they will catch.

I will look at opening up the holes to see if it is feasible...Brilliant!

pygpen,

Mine is a 2/75 but I don't know what year the doors are...I assume mid 60s to early 70's but there were no windows on them so I don't know if they are earlier.

Thanks!

 

[65swb45]

The last customer that approached me with this problem, I just fabbed up two pieces of plate that would bolt to his striker mounting pattern, slotted the holes for adjustment and welded up the 'ramp' for the early model striker on it. Ensured a precise fit AND wouldn't wear out as fast as the OE strikers.

Good luck

Mark A.

 

[too tall]

I've had this issue as well I used a flat end shank 1/4 inch die grinder bit and elongated the holes in the tub . It was just enough to get it to catch.

 

[xumFJ40]

Hmm...

Ok, so Steve I remebered why that would't work. (after looking at it again)

The piece that holds the threaded piece of metal that the screws, screw into restricts the mounting bracket from moving that far outboard.

Regardless of whether or not I lengthen the holes, this piece will still be restricted and will not allow the door to close all of the way.

Next question is: Can I simply use a cutoff tool and trim off 1/16th of an inch from the back side of the door catch?

This way the striker will stay in the same place, but the door would latch.

Thanks,

 

[honk]

Hmm...

Next question is: Can I simply use a cutoff tool and trim off 1/16th of an inch from the back side of the door catch?

This way the striker will stay in the same place, but the door would latch.

Thanks,

Sure, go for it. Think with door latches is to watch how they come together and alter them in whatever way necessary to make them latch. They're almost always close, so a tweak one way or another will often get it and that sounds like what you are asking permission to do.

 

[xumFJ40]

Ok....Thanks for everyone's help.

The answer to the question is to put a spacer between the door and the latch unit.

By putting a spacer behing the latch, it brings the latch inboard and corrects the problem.

Thanks again for the advice!

 

[cbmontgo]

No problem. I am glad I could help! Of course, I wouldn't worry about the doors since you never wheel or drive it anyway!