Dome Light Circuit Parasitic Drain

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Nov 19, 2006
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Minneapolis, MN
Just as the title reads, I'm pretty sure I've got a parasitic drain somewhere in my dome light circuit in my '92 3FE.

First a little background:
I swapped the original 3FE for another 3FE out of a '92 this summer when I broke the crank in my original motor. The swap went fairly well considering it was my first. I did have a short when I put the new motor in that was due to the two wires being pulled from the #6 injector plug and shorting out. It was blowing fusible links. I repaired the wires and the truck ran well. Just weeks after getting the '92 up and running, the headgasket in my '94 blew. I depended on the '92 the entire time the '94 was down, and it only gave me one major problem. I snapped the fan belt and the motor got a little too close to the red on the temp gauge. I caught it early, towed it back to the house, and replaced the belt. Everything seemed to be back to normal again. Before the belt issue, it seemed like the headlights weren't as bright as they should be, but I attributed that to the age of the lenses. The lights did seem to get brighter with higher RPM's, so I was thinking my alternator brushes were on their last leg. I had plans to put the '94 away for the winter to protect it from the salt, so following the headgasket job, I put about 600 miles on it to ensure that everything was good to go before storage. The '92 had been driven about once a week during that time, without issue.

Now for the mystery:
The '92 was driven to the airport, sat for about 5 full days, and drove back home (10-15 miles on the highway) without issue. It got back on a Sunday, and wasn't touched until Saturday. On that Saturday (one week ago) I tried to roll down the rear windows with the truck off to re-install the door panels. The battery was dead. The battery was replaced this summer. I immediately thought alternator. I pulled the alternator and brought it in for testing. It was good to go. I put it back in the truck, jumped it, and brought it back to the parts store for a in-vehicle test. Again, it tested good. That eliminated the alternator or the cables from the alternator to the battery. Then I thought parasitic drain. I got out the multimeter to find .085 Amps being drawn from the battery with the truck off and no accessories running. I went through the process of pulling individual fuses and retesting the current draw in an effort do find the drain. I found the dome light circuit to be the culprit, because with the dome fuse out, the current draw dropped to .005 Amps (all tested with a charged battery).

I tried to find the issue with the circuit by pulling and testing all of the dome/map light switches and bulbs. They all checked good in the truck. I also disabled all of the door switches, the rear hatch switch, and the glove box switch but the current draw remained the same .085 Amps with the dome fuse installed. I took a look at the wiring diagram in the FSM, but that doesn't show much else on the dome fuse. For now, I've pulled the dome fuse and plan to let the truck sit for a week to see if the battery is drained at all. I'd like to get this figured out because its a bit annoying to be without dome lights. I'd also like to make sure that this problem isn't being caused by something more serious, or possibly causing something more serious.

I've done about all I can think to do with my minimal electrical experience and a multimeter. I'm at a loss at this point, but hoping someone else has some advice. I did test my '94 for the sake of a "control", and that tested to be at .025 amps with accessories off. That battery does not drain on its own and I haven't ever had starting issues on that truck. I've seen on Mud that people ignore drains .1 amps and lower, but that is the only thing I can seem to find that could be killing the battery.

Thanks in advance
-TT
 
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minimal electrical??? :eek: I'd hate to see what you think major experience is...:rolleyes:

try changing the fuse out for a brand new one? long shot but if it's broken but still electrically functional there can be some resistance through it.

HTH

(:popcorn:my kid likes these guys:popcorn:)
 
0.085A is 1w. It's nothing. Are you sure the battery is not faulty ?
Also are there other items on the dome circuit ? Mine are newer and I can;t recall, but are the stereo, alarm, etc. on the same circuit ?
 
0.085A is 1w. It's nothing. Are you sure the battery is not faulty ?
Also are there other items on the dome circuit ? Mine are newer and I can;t recall, but are the stereo, alarm, etc. on the same circuit ?

I'm going to bring in the battery today to have it tested to eliminate that as the cause.

From what I can tell, there is nothing else on the dome fuse circuit. I took a look at the FSM, and I can't see much else on that wiring diagram.

Another question: How much draw is acceptable? I realize the battery will have draw when the truck is completely off for memory purposes, but how much current is too much current when everything is off? It still doesn't make sense to me that the dome circuit would be drawing any current with everything disconnected (according to the FSM everything is disconnected).

Another shot in the dark:
I had to make a battery tie-down for this truck, as it was missing when I bought the truck. I made it from aluminum angle stock, flattened the ends, and drilled them out for the threaded hooks. I did not paint the bracket like the factory bracket. Could a bare metal strip across the front of the battery cause the drain?

Thanks,
TT
 
0.085A x 24 x 7 = 14 amp.hour per week drained from the battery. If you aren't driving your 80 for a week or two at a time, that is a considerable current draw over time. It definitely should NOT be that high.

An unpainted aluminium strap should not be draining anything of significance given it's only touching the plastic case of the battery.

If this vehicle was not new when you bought it, there may be some PO handiwork that is connected to the dome wiring feeds...

cheers,
george.
 
For a refernce point, I just tested my truck while I was cleaning up battery terminals and such before winter. Keep in mind I have a 91FJ80 with an aftermarket radio, no alarm, really nothing that would cause any draw other than the clock.

With nothing on she pulls 28mA.
When I open a door with George's LEDs she pulls 310mA.

No measurable draw from the alternator, inverter (off), starter, winch, etc.

She has been sitting for 5 days and the battery reads 12.65 VDC accross the terminals.
 
I was chasing a similar issue and found that even with all accesories off and only the rear hatch open with dome lights off I get 165mA. When shut it draws 28mA for the radio, clock and ECU. So 85mA seems high
 
I wasn't really getting anywhere with my multimeter, so I decided to bring the battery in for a test. The battery tested bad. I've never heard of a battery coming off the shelf bad, but stranger things have happened. I got a replacement, and put that battery in. I'm planning to leave the truck sitting (without any accessories on and not starting during the period) for a week and I'll test it again this next weekend.

I agree that the 85mA is too high with an aftermarket head unit and no other aftermarket accessories. I'm not sure why the dome light circuit is pulling so much current while off, but from what I've read, it shouldn't be a problem with starting every week or so. I do plan to drive this truck this winter as my DD, so it should be ok. I'm thinking I can try to track down the drain next summer when the weather gets a little better.

I'm still open to suggestions of things to check as long as I don't need to take the truck out of service for an extended amount of time.

Thanks for the help,
-TT
 
Looks like you figured out that aftermarket stereo head units typically receive some of their power via the dome circuit. My Clarion CX609 draws ~13mA, and another 10mA if I enable the flashing "alarm" LED. 85mA sounds way to much if the headunit is working right. It's a PITA to get behind the dash just to disconnect the HU to see if it's all coming from there, but personally that would be my next step. I'm with George, 14Ah/wk is a lot for a starting battery.
 
On the dome light circuit, with the fuse pulled, I measure 10mA while closing the circuit with my multimeter across the fuse holder with all the doors closed. With the driver's side door open it jumps to 90mA. With the passenger side door open as well it jumps to almost 200mA.

Close the doors then measure the current.
 
Several years ago dome light didn't work, what I discovered was corroded & broken wires at socket located behind drivers side tail light assembly. Simplest fix at that time was two jumper wires around wiring socket to fix issue. Took a look today at this area preparing to fix trailer wiring controller that failed, will need to correct those quick fixes I made several years ago.
Current drain from those wires is real possibility.
 
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The previous aftermarket stereo headunit went bad and was pulling current with the truck turned off. Almost 200mA. Finally installed a new stereo and the current draw is back down to 10mA with the truck turned off. Nice to have sound in the vehicle again.
 
tiQ7ND
Update > .06 amp draw key off dome light circuit. '92 FJ80

ok i know this is n old thread that i came across when chasing this on my 92 fj80 but after 3 days of unplugging nearly every connector on this rig i found my drain.

The factory audio amp located behind the right dashboard speaker next to the glove box which in my case wasn't even doing anything (aftermarket radio) was my culpret.


Hope this helps someone
s-l300.webp
 
Hey folks I’m in a similar predicament..

I’ve toasted a few batteries in the last 6 months or so. Decided today to try to find my current draw.. it’s definitely done fuse related.. doesn’t blow the fuses, dome lights work as they should. I pulled the radio, all the dome lights, seat belt module. Rear amp (mine has no front amp). Also pulled every plug under the dash I could find..

Here is the weird part for me- it doesn’t start drawing until the key is on, then off..

For example.. I put the dome fuse in, starting with zero draw.. open and close the doors 10 times.. the current draw goes up to about 200ma then back to zero each time.. but once I turn the key on and back off.. it’s now stays at 80ma draw constantly...

Feels to me like something is turning on the the key and then not turning back off for some reason, but I don’t have any idea what that would be..

I’d try anything at this point
 
I should add.. 92 3fe no factory amp in dash. No alarm under seat. No lighted key hole
Do you have a lighted window switch for the driver's master? Or an auto up mod?

I was going to say the ignition switch lighted ring.
 
Negative on the lighted switches or keyhole light.. I’m mind boggled.. it’s a 70-80 Ma draw.. but ONLY after you switch the key on and off. If you reconnect the battery and let it sit, it’s only a 0-10 ma draw.. if it was a daily driver I don’t even think it would be a problem but it’s toast after about a week of sitting..


I may try rigging a switch to this fuse or one of those auto battery low voltage cutoff things.. but I’d much prefer to fix it like me toyoda intended lol
 
The DOME fuse feeds (in alphabetical order):

Back door courtesy switch
Clock
Comb meter door open warning light
Door courtesy switch diodes
Engine compartment cooling fan
Engine compartment cooling fan ECU
Engine compartment cooling fan relay

Front door courtesy switch
Interior lights
Radio and player
Seat belt warning relay
Stereo amplifier
Sunroof control relay

I highlighted the area that I would look given your description of the issue.
 
ThAt is AWESOME info I had no idea it powered any circuits under the hood.. all the blower fan stuff is disconnected but I’d bet money the ecu is still there.. definitely gives me a place to look! Thanks!
 

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