I'd love to get an image for copy/paste to save spending 30 bucks and risk getting one for the F2. From what I have read about the history of these, Toyota stopped putting the F engines in the FJ40s in 73 or 74. Mine is a 74 model that was build in DEC of 73. Not only that but figuring out what my grandfather others did to this thing in the past has been a bit enlightening and confusing. I'm no stranger to incorporating southern ingenuity into projects but I'd rather do the electric stuff right the first time.
Does anyone have the wiring schematics for F Engine? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter RedOx
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Land Cruiser Factory Service Manuals (FSMs)
Factory service manuals (FSMs) for your Toyota Land Cruiser ! From the 1950s to the present!
www.cruisercult.com
Could be anything. My 72 came to me in 82 - has a Rochester 2BBL and a Delco distributor. I added a header when the cast iron manifold cracked in half. I think the current engine is a 2F
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- #3
Much appreciated. Wish me luck on it! Battery is basically brand new still. Got it charged. I may try to fire it up with the old wiring first to see what needs attention first. Pretty sure mine is an F because the giant carb cover is on the driver side. All the F2s I looked at didn't have that. I'm going to try to use a toner on some of these wires to make life a bit easier.Land Cruiser Factory Service Manuals (FSMs)
Factory service manuals (FSMs) for your Toyota Land Cruiser ! From the 1950s to the present!
Could be anything. My 72 came to me in 82 - has a Rochester 2BBL and a Delco distributor. I added a header when the cast iron manifold cracked in half. I think the current engine is a 2F
I'd start with pulling the spark plugs and putting a few cc's of marvels mystery oil in each cylinder. Let it soak into the rings for a day or two. In neutral try pulling on the fan blade - to see that the engine isn't seized. Now use the starter to spin the engine until it shows oil pressure. Put the plugs in and see if it will fire up with good gas.
There is also the "Late F" engine, or 1.5 F engine. Only came out for one year or so in 1974. They're easy to spot by where the oil filter is located.
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- #6
I was able to get the belt to move a bit but it was pretty difficult. The mechanics that worked on it two years ago told me they got it to run and it had an oil leak somewhere. I gotta add that to my check list. I definitely think your suggestion is the way to go on the testing. Never heard of that brand of oil but I'll look for it. I kinda went to fast and took out more stuff than I needed to so I'll have to reinstall my gauge cluster and make sure that the oil like is still good.
It is a penetrant to crawl into the rings to help free up pistons. I bought a Yammahammer XT 500 that was stored for like 15 years. It smoked like a poorly tuned worn out diesel. I got it for a song. Put some Marvels in the jug and let it soak a week. After it burnt out the Marvels it never smoked again.
I use it in my air tools.
https://www.amazon.com/Marvel-MM13R-Mystery-Oil-oz/dp/B0009JKGJW
I use it in my air tools.
https://www.amazon.com/Marvel-MM13R-Mystery-Oil-oz/dp/B0009JKGJW
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- #8
Sunday I'll post some pictures of under the hood. It's a pretty good view because I had to take the battery holder completely out. The battery holder was the only thing that seems to have rusted completely through. I have knocked around on the frame with a hammer here and there and haven't found any through rust.
To identify your engine:
Locate, clean up, and read the engine stamp. F engines start with "F" and the 2Fs start with "2F".
The F.5 Pighead mentioned starts with "F". It's technically an F, but most every one calls it the F.5 and like he said it is distinguished by oil filter location.
I have the F.5 in my May 74 rig. Oil filter is on the passenger side and the original valve cover is steel.
Locate, clean up, and read the engine stamp. F engines start with "F" and the 2Fs start with "2F".
The F.5 Pighead mentioned starts with "F". It's technically an F, but most every one calls it the F.5 and like he said it is distinguished by oil filter location.
I have the F.5 in my May 74 rig. Oil filter is on the passenger side and the original valve cover is steel.
Living in the Past
SILVER Star
There is no F2 but a 2F. Also wiring has as much to do with manufactured date and market as engine alone.. From late 65 until the end of production the FJ40 looked pretty much the same unless you know what changed when. These are far from a one size fits all on many things. Also many changes happens to a 40 over the years including wiring. Pictures, manufacture date and market are your friend to getting an answer to a question.
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pb4ugo
SILVER Star
You may want to look on Coolermans website and find the wiring diagram for your year. Regardless of engine, the wiring would be similar to stk to make the engine run, with maybe subtle alterations. The charging system may have been changed if someone adapted an internally regulated alt. The PO of my 40 had someone install a sbc. He did a decent job and didn't really hack the harness too much. When I cleaned it up I repaired or corrected the harness in spots and only added 2 non stk wires to the harness, one from a GM alt to the batt to charge it and 1 for the alt idiot light. All the other wiring is stk and using proper color coded wiring. Coolerman also sells stk plugs and proper colored wire.
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As charliemeyer pointed out, Marvel Mystery Oil (MMO) is NOT a motor oil. Do not fill your crankcase with it. It is an additive, a treatment, a magical snake oil. What's in it? It's a mystery. But it's been around forever and we (old farts with old rigs) have been using it just as long.
Traditionally, when you bring home an old rig with an unknown history that hasn't run in some time, you remove your sparkplugs and pour a few ounces of MMO into each cylinder. Let it sit a day or two and repeat. And repeat. It won't hurt, it just might help.
I use it, I like it. I put some in the crankcase (with the motor oil) and some in the fuel tank (with the gasoline) just because that's what Grandpa did. YMMV
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- #13
Clearly an F. There is a chart around here somewhere that can show you year and maybe month of manufacture.
Yes. It's an F. But it could also be the F that is often refered to as the F.5. Which side of the engine is the oil filter on?
Drivers side F. Passenger side F.5
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Passenger
Congrats. It's the F.5. Has the same oil configuration as the 2F
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Ok I'll see what I can do about that URL. I already ordered a universal wiring harness from Amazon before I learned about Coolerman. I tried finding him and he seems to be some mythic figure that only certain individuals can contact. I know how to tone these wires but the entire wiring harness is getting swapped. I am switching to a higher amp internally regulated alternator. I have studied some videos on how it works and why the ID10T light is needed. I really appreciate the suggestion that it's similar to stock regardless. What do you mean with the acronym "SBC"??
pb4ugo
SILVER Star
SBC, small block Chevrolet. I provided a link to Coolermans website in my previous post.
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- #20
I finally got into his website and I'm glad you guys showed me this. Very good stuff.
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